(Cracked Block) - Sudden Milky Oil - 351w

I agree with the above post and keep in mind the rollers always have a nice arc to the top, the roller stays in contact with the cam lobe. A flat tappet cam with the sharp top might launch the roller wheel as it tops the cam lobe and end up pounding the wheel into submission. Roller profile camshafts do hang the valve fully open longer at the exact same lift giving more intake and exhaust ability with the same total lift so they have more power across the RPM range, broader torque curve, not more total HP but more power from idle to wide open given the exact same lift and duration cam profile.

LeftFieldEngineering wrote: Well if one of you guys wants to play around with some motors I have a 351 and 302 (both with bad blocks) that need to find a home.

Those things are anchors, 90 percent of the parts on them would come free with a good junkyard block. If either has a RH crank with wick lines (a 2 piece rear seal) then you can pull the crank out before you junk them but the rest of the long block parts aren't worth much. Keep any marine accessories/brackets or put them up for sale. Then scrap the rest, soon trust me, I had to move around more engines and hoarded parts than I care to admit this week, my back is killing me.

halfnelly wrote: Waterdog wrote: Is there a reason you can't use roller tappets with a flat tappet cam ? Just cost ? We all use roller rockers to replace the stamped steel rockers. Roller cams are totally different animal than a flat tappet cam. Different metallurgy, different lobe shape. The roller is on the left, flat tappet on the right:

OK, I know rollers have steeper ramp angles, are and are made from better material and can stand higher spring pressures. I guess the question is will a roller tipped tappet
wear through a cast cam.
Roller tappets = less friction = free horse power (except for the up front cost of the tappets)

gun-driver wrote: http://www.locknstitch.com/cracked_engine_block_repair.htm Link to lockstich

Hey, they even called those holes in the side of the block the correct name!!!

" 5.9-liter engine block with a crack below the core plugs"

Mark that could definitely work but by the time he goes through all that it would be much cheaper to get a 2-3 hundred dollar block from a salvage yard and do the rebuild.
I got this roller long block off the local craigslist for $200

You'll make it work.

Is there a reason you can't use roller tappets with a flat tappet cam ?
Just cost ?
We all use roller rockers to replace the stamped steel rockers.

Agree with joe.

RH rollers exist, just not in the wild!

I had started haggling for these heads before I was aware of the block crack. Just like Tim I like keep piles of spare parts around "just in case". Although they were stock heads, they were recently rebuild and had no more then 20 hours on them. Doesn't much matter, I'm not going to need them now. Instead I'm going to do something I didn't think I would do; sell my boat.. Of course I'm talking about my 66 MirroCraft . Selling the boat + a little shop work should get me enough for a re-man 351w long block, a new damper plate, new water pump and a transmission kit. With any luck I'll have it assembled, broken in and on the water in a few weeks.

Sure hope it works too because I'm selling my only good boat to fix the broken one.

halfnelly wrote: 94+ 351w blocks are also hydraulic roller ready

Not nessasarrly

how much for bar

After calling in every favor I could I manged to scrounge up a few potential blocks. I also called a couple engine shops to see what rebuilds cost these days.

Here are the current options:

1 A.) Pull the head and see if it's fixable. If it is; send to my friends brother to nickle weld the water jacket, install a new head gasket, reinstall the intake and give it another shot. ($200-$400)

1 B.) Same as 1A, but trade some fab work for a set of re-manufactured heads and install them with 2 new head gaskets after the repair. ($300-$600)

2.) Get a parts 351w from a friend, strip & dye check the block, buy a rebuild kit & send it off to my friends brother for a top to bottom rebuild. ($600-$1000)

3.) Send the motor to a local engine builder; new block, rings, pistons, bearings, gaskets, rebuilt heads, returned ready to install, with a 3 week lead time and a 1 year warranty ($3200)

4.) Pick up re-manufactured long block with 2 yr warranty, buy new exhaust manifolds, new damper plate, dye check my intake & swap over the rest of my gear. ($3000)

Option 3 and 4 would normally be off the table, however my parents completely shocked me and showed some interested in donating to the cause. Perhaps it was all those years of yard work when I lived at home or maybe they just want unlimited boat rides. Whatever the reason I'm not going to turn it down, every penny gets me one step closer to the lake.

As for the rest of the money I'm going to have to get creative. That being said if you happen to know anybody looking for a custom Nautique bar, fabricated parts or CNC plasma signs, you know where to find 'em

and a 95 bronco or f250 is likely to have the roller lifters and spider present, but if he is going back to a RH engine the cam to go with them is something that doesn't exist in the wild

Sorry that happened to you Andy, after all that hard work and how excited you were to get it out on the water. Clearly you have the ability to address it,   Hope to see having it out on the water again soon.

Sorry to hear that, but I have to say, you don't waste any time moving forward!!