Carb replacement

My current carb (Holley 4160) is without a choke, I guess it was removed at some point by a previous owner. As the boat can take a bit to get started in the cold I decided to look out for a replacement.
I seem to have a bagged a good'n off eBay, well I only paid £50 and it appears to have been looked after. However its a different list number, can anyone tell me whether this is compatible with my PCM 351W and what the differences are between the 2 carbs?

Current Holley:
E6JL-9510-JB
LIST 50419-1
2717

Replacement one:
E8JL-9510-CA
LIST 50463
0729

PS its good to be back!

I don't think their open yet Graham, but I'll give Holley a call for you when they are

Someone else already did the legwork, got this from a quick Google search:

http://www.shamrockboatownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?24909-Holly-rebuild/page2

50463: 4160, 600 CFM, Ford 351, obsolete, renew kit - 703-29 (the "5" at the beginning means it is an OEM Ford calibration)

50419: 4160, 600 CFM, Ford 351, obsolete, renew kit - 703-29

I believe these have been superseded by the 80319-1, which is what I'm running on my 94 351w.

Graham, if it helps, I'm running the 50463 (same as your replacement carb) and it runs great! Can't help you on the differences though. Do you know if the replacement has been rebuilt or when?

Ah great, the news I wanted to hear thanks. I wont bother trying to transfer the choke assembly from my old carb, will just order a rebuild kit for the new one.
This looks to do the job
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/131457148047?nav=SEARCH

Gary, big thanks for making the call to Holley!! :)

Oh, Im guessing the difference between 66 and 65 primaries is minimal?

One would hope the updated power valve is included in the 703-29 renew kit?

that could be it. I didn't really question the guy much as he has a great reputation rebuilding carbs. the total cost for this upgrade was only $25, so $15 for the part and $10 for labor sounds about right. i can contact him to get exact details on it if you would like. I can confirm he does good work. engine runs sooo much better this year so far.

i just FB him and he confirmed that check valve is what was done.

Anyone know off the top of their head what colour the wires are that connect to the stat on the choke? Need to find out where the PO cut these off

Im guessing I'll need to hook up to the main loom, if it just needs a feed to switched live and earth should be easy

8122pbrainard wrote: Graham, The choke is energized with the ignition feed before the ballast resistor if used.

Thanks, Ive now located the reduntant feed wire. Will I get away with connecting the earth cable to the alternator earth terminal? Seems obvious to me but thought best to check!

Graham, I've actually wondered the proper method as well. I noticed there was a lot of play between having the choke fully closed to when it starts to open. The diagram below is what I am trying to figure out. I think i figured out the answer, but I'm sure I'll get schooled by a smart person here.

top left: initial install. the loop of the choke metal slips over the pin.
top right: rotating the choke counterclockwise closes the choke plate with the pin on the "coil" side of the choke. if you over turn (continuing ccw) to the bottom left, there is a bit of give before the plate starts to open again when you turn back cw. (*I think this is where im off)

bottom left: pin placement when turning cw to start to open the choke plate
bottom right: pin location when the choke has been heated and the coil expands.



After writing this, I think i see the error of my ways. Since the choke plate naturally wants to be OPEN, the pin will always ride on the "coil" side of the choke. So in that case, turning it ccw until slightly closed (or i've seen a #2 pencil width) should do it (top left to top right). Then as the metal expands, the choke pin and plate will naturally return to it's open state.

In other words, the expansion of the metal doesn't "pull" the pin back, it just resists the pin from returning to it's neutral state. with the metal fully expanded, the pin will have no pressure pushing back on it (if anything, it might "hold" it in the open state)

oh, and of course, this should be set with the choke COLD.

Fantastic, this has answered my question - thanks.
The 90secs taken to open the choke plate, presumably this is with the engine running? What would you say was approx ambient temperature?
Also could you let me know what the earth terminal is grounded to?
Thanks again

I understand but what is the choke grounded to? Directly to the block? Was thinking of connecting it to the earth terminal on the alternator..

I see, thanks thats interesting. So the choke works by the live electrical feed heating up the spring which in time opens the choke plate. I always thought it was linked to ambient temperature ie would remain closed for longer in the winter time. But it sounds like its effectively a time delay mechanism. Does it operate this way every time the engine is started, so even if it is up to temperature the choke is initially closed for a period of time after switching ignition off and back on again? If that makes sense?