Advice for reviving a '87 SN 2001 after 10yrs

We made it back with everything in one piece. In fact, aside from losing a trailer hub cap somewhere on I-69, the trip up north and back was absolutely uneventful.

More good news - the trailer in question was a '90 Shorelander with a lube-thru axle and bearingbuddies. I pulled out my grease gun and hit each side equally with a liberal amount of grease. We hooked everything up, did a quick lights check then went for a 5-mile drive at 30-40 mph to warm up the axle. After we returned, we hit each side again with the grease and viola! The majority of old gummy stuff was pushed out and replaced.    

On this Easter Sunday, I just wanted give to a big "thank you" to everyone who provided input. With the all knowledge sharing, I was able to ensure that I was adequately prepared to meet the majority of potential showstoppers.

Here's a few quick pic's of what I'll be working with over the next few weeks.



Time for a short test drive!


These look awful without the hub caps




The vinyl is a lot more brittle then it looks


I found all the plugs, keys, and even the oil quick drain hose in a plastic bag under the observers seat


The swim platform is going to require some work...


All in all, the engine bay was pretty clean


Aside from wet sanding, buffing and polishing the hull, the port-side graphics are going to eventually need some real work. If I don't keep to the original gray scheme, I'm thinking dark blue...

Anyone have any good tips for putting the two halves of the RWP back together after changing the impeller? I've pulled the pump and removed\replaced the old impeller, o-ring and gasket, but I'm having a heck of a time getting enough thread to the screws in order to put pump back together. They're not stripped and initially I thought I might have purchased the wrong kit from Nautiqueparts.com, but everything I can find confirms the correct part number (09959K). Could it be that the new impeller just has that much more thickness to it?

have your screws been modified/shortened? mine just barely end up sticking out past the backside of the housing when fully seated. Dawn dish soap on the fins to get it to slide in easier. I then add the "o" ring, plate, gasket, put the shaft into the impeller and spin it until the key meets the slot and it drops in. line up the screws and tighten her down, each screw a bit at a time. Just make sure you orient the impeller in the correct direction.

Did this last weekend, a mark on the top of the pump helps make sure you are not installing it backwards. There are some good pictures on the aquaskier.com website of this install. I was surprised at how easy this part was to install.

I took Kevin's advice and pulled the RWP back apart to get some photos. After zooming in, I noticed that one of the threaded screw holes was pretty smooth and another on it's way. Called my cousin to see if he was aware of this and sure enough, this situation wasn't any news to him


"Good screw hole"


Screw hole in the process of ticking me off


The screw hole that makes me want to throw the RWP across my %$#@! garage

In any event, the screws aren't the problem now, it's the RWP back housing.

Anyone have any previous experience with using a tap and die set on the housing to re-thread the screw holes?

Any idea if going "just a tad" larger is a problem? If not, what's a good size?   

I'm pretty sure that the screw holes are brass, so I'm a little nervous about just going to town here...

TRBenj wrote: Go with longer bolts and nuts on the back side if necessary.

Yes, I agree most definitely! But if you look at pic #3, a longer bolt ain't gonna fix that...

skutsch wrote: WRT the actual problem at hand, I would do what Tim suggested with a bolt and nut or, re-tap all the next size up, that way you shouldn't have to worry about which bolt fits. Brass is soft, so tapping should not be an issue, just be very careful threading and tightening.

Thanks, Steve. The advise is much appreciated - glad to know that tapping brass shouldn't be problematic.

I'm right there with you regarding using care when threading and tightening into soft metals.    

8122pbrainard wrote: I feel the original bolts are 1/4-20. You can tap to 5/16-18 but, there's no reason Tim's method of longer bolts and nut's on the back side won't work ether. Actually, I would prefer to see the longer bolts since there's not much material in the ears of the pump body to go larger.

Pete, you're right on the money. The one that looks like it's an adjusting screw is 1" long and the other two appeared to be 3\4" - all were 1/4-20.

I checked a number of taps and settled on 1\4-28 - which just happened to coincide with the three 1" fasteners I had laying around.

The RWP is now solidly back together and re-installed with a brand new Sherwood impeller and gasket. I didn't go with the nut on the back idea as there really wasn't sufficient room to get a turn on the nut to ensure it was tightly seated to the housing.

In any event, there's plenty of "meat" in the new threads and the longer bolts make disasembly\reassembly alot easier.

Thanks to all who added some input- I'd rather ask once then have to call for a tow...              

Busy day today, just had to show off some wood    The swim platform came out far better than anticipated - the hues in the Teak almost look holographic. Also got the observer's seat bottom, stern seat bottom and boat cover over to the upholsterers. I'm going with a bottom seat color theme in gray. I've asked them to match the gray in the stripe then replace skins & refoam both seats. FWIW, my cousin corrected a misunderstanding today, turns out the boat had been stored in a garage for 19yrs, not 10. Speaking with some of the "old timers" on the lake, they say that's not a problem if climate controlled, not stored in sunlight and properly prepped. Fingers crossed, I'm hoping for a first start this weekend! Oh, that reminds me - check fire extinguisher!




Before

After

Detail

8122pbrainard wrote: Rob, Good luck on the start up. The platform looks great but I'd like to ask what you used on it. It looks pretty glossy for a oil. Hopefully you didn't use a hard finish.

Thanks Pete. I used 3-4 coats of Starbrite Teak oil for the base then 3 coats of TotalBoat Marine Wood Finish in gloss to make it "pop". It looks kinda slick, but you actually get pretty good traction on it. I know, I had to test it to make sure I wasn't inviting an accident   

Agree, Teak is meant for oil and that's the way it is.

I'm struggling to come up with any finish that makes it pop that wouldn't be slippery. Anyway, good luck. Zach will have to let know how it goes.

xarmypilot wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: Rob, The platform looks great but I'd like to ask what you used on it. It looks pretty glossy for a oil. Hopefully you didn't use a hard finish. Thanks Pete. I used 3-4 coats of Starbrite Teak oil for the base then 3 coats of TotalBoat Marine Wood Finish in gloss to make it "pop". It looks kinda slick, but you actually get pretty good traction on it. I know, I had to test it to make sure I wasn't inviting an accident

Rob,
I asked about the coating worried about it sticking and not how slippery it was. I have never seen anything considered a hard coating stick to Teak. Time will tell.

Quick update -
   It was a very good day today. Took half a day off of work and, with a little help from the fuel, fire and air gods, I was able to get in the 1st start and run up since 1996!   I think it only took 2-3 turns of the key before she roared back to life. Nice thing about Ford's 351, they do like to run! Initially she was a bit smokey for the first 5 minutes, probably due to the half ounce or so of Marvel I sprayed down the plug wells after I changed them. Transmission felt and sounded smooth and engine temps stayed around 150-160 after 30 minutes at idle. Before starting I was a bit concerned about having to adjust the carb, but the engine idled steady at about 900 RPM, so I think I'm in the clear - just have to wait until I put it under load.

As a side note, as I was reinserting the water plugs, I noticed a red hose attached to the engine listing eye on one end and at the oil pan at the other.

Anyone have an idea what that is for or if it need to be attached? I can seem the find it in the PCM manual so I've attached a pic      

I'm thinking it's a convenient oil drain hose, but I'd rather not "guess"...

There's also an additional plug I can't account for. I believe it to be a spare or maybe a extra drain plug of some type. It's awfully clean to have been used regularly and I can account for the other 5 plugs that I had re-installed. Thoughts?




Red host attached to lifting eye


Opposite end, attached to oil pan


Extra plug?

Right on with the oil drain hose, I remember going through my engine on the 98 sport for the first time and finding the same hose. Had no idea what it was, the Ford Interceptor 312 on my Dad's Ski Nautique had no such convenience item.

As for that plug, it sure looks like a manifold plug (to drain manifolds - winterization - at the aft end of each manifold), of course it depends on what size it is. If it is small it could also be the plug that goes in the bottom of the J-pipe below the water pump, but those are typically brass and a hex head.