ProTec Ignition replacement question

I called performance distributors first once I realized there's a shortage. We're in between phone calls but looks like at best they're a week out. I also find it funny that it appears the only live wires available are blue too.

Trying to order DUI and goodies for this weekend. Evidently DUI is backed up and it appears the only SBF standard rotation distributors available are through Summit and the caps are blue. Is anybody aware of other possible distributors of DUI? I don't think the blue cap will give enough horsepower on my red and silver PCM. Also, any need to lube the dizzy gear prior to installation?

JPASS wrote: . Looks like I'm going to have buy a prop puller soon. Here's a vid. I revved her up to 4900rpm and stopped there. Seemed like she had more, but I was worried about giving her more throttle.

We have a canal that eats props. I go tonOrlando Nautiques and ask "to rent a puller" and they usually lend it to me as long as I return the next day. My boat seems to turn high and these guys always tell me to give it all it's got.

Thanks guys. If anyone wants my number before they do the swap just in case, just send me a PM and I'll be more than happy to.

I'll let you guys know how she runs after this Saturday.

Thanks JP! nice write-up!

Installation instructions are here

Let me know if I need to tweak anything.

And thanks for all of your help. I couldn't have done it without you guys.

Put it in the engine repair section, and I'll put a link in my FAQ!

Kevin

Plan on doing the write up tonight. Should I post it in the engine repair section or general discussion? Figured it would be best to not have to weed through 4 pages of questions and answers in a "how to" post.

Figured I'd make it separate from this thread, but supply a link to here to address any questions that we have already answered.

Looks like the rust is just on top the existing paint, You could probably get it off with a little hull cleaner or Eagle One Mag Wheel Cleaner and a rag. Both are acid and will get rid of rust stains quickly. Then you can check and see if they come back.

I think I may just wait for the off season if the job is as problematic as you guys are saying. I'd hate to have to miss time on the water due to the broken bolt issues that seem extremely likely to happen.

I suck at removing broken bolts, so this sounds like a job I am going to hate.

The header bolts are pretty rusty, so I think it's safe to assume those are going to give me a little trouble as well.

Yup, this will have to wait, but I can gather up gaskets and such just in case something goes wrong between now and then.

Gotta love being a boat owner.......it's always something.

Maybe enjoy your new distributor for at least a few runs first

JPASS wrote: Pretty straight forward to change right? Just remove the 4 bolts on top of the riser, clean the mating surfaces and reinstall the riser???Looks like the tab on the gasket faces forward on my set-up.

More like remove the two short bolts... break the two long bolts... get the torch out heat the riser... vice grips on the remaining part of the bolt... hope for the bolt to spin free.
Not to hard really.

If it's it leaking you won't see it wet, you'll see the stains. Clean it up and give it squirt of paint, if it comes back it's still leaking.

Nice work!
I see a riser gasket replacement in your near future!
You have some leaks there...and you do not want any water leaking to the engine...

Nice to see attention to detail.

Can you flip the mesh part of flame arrestor over to make it clear? Hose will probably be short. Even if it touches doubt it would be a problem.