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Motor Oil, Oil Filters, Transmission Fluid

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    Posted: August-22-2013 at 2:25am

In this thread, I'm attempting to summarize the CCF forum answers to my questions about motor oil, oil filters and transmission fluid, with links to other threads and to additional information online.

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MOTOR OIL

Our PCM/Ford 351W engines use a flat tappet camshaft. A quick online search will provide a wealth of information on flat tappet cams and the antiwear additive ZDDP. Many experts, including some on this site, believe that ZDDP is needed beyond the engine break-in period to avoid cam wear, and believe that the lower levels of ZDDP in modern oils are too low for these engines.

Several experts on this site recommend these specific oils:

Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20W-50 (conventional p/n VV211 or synthetic p/n 679082.0)
or
Mobil 1 15W-50 (synthetic)


Here are some details:

Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20W-50
Spec Gravity @ 60°F: 0.888
Zinc: 1400 ppm
Phosphorus: 1300 ppm
Conventional p/n VV211 webpage pdf
Synthetic p/n 679082.0 webpage pdf

Mobil 1 15W-50
Density @15.6º C g/ml: 0.87
Zinc: 1300 ppm
Phosphorus: 1200 ppm
Mobil 1 Engine Oils Table
Mobil 1 15W-50


For more information, see the What Weight Oil thread and the threads it links to.

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OIL FILTERS

There seems to be a lot of emotion behind oil filter loyalty. Steve K (skutsch) and I took the results of a January 2011 oil filter study and removed price as a factor in grading the filters. These rankings are from the one referenced study only.

We are assuming that the individual category grades (filtering, quality, etc) are common across a manufacturer's sizes of a specific filter, because the part number used in the study is not necessarily the one for our engines.

These rankings do not factor in price (on purpose).

oil filter table with pn



For more information, see the What Weight Oil thread, the Oil Filter Comparison/Evaluation thread, and the threads they link to.

I personally am switching to Mobil 1 oil filters.

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TRANSMISSION FLUID

Conventional Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF), Dexron-III/Mercon, not synthetic

Several experts on this site recommend Castrol and Valvoline (just confirm Dexron-III/Mercon, and not a different rated fluid).


For more information, including info about flushing the transmission, see the Transmission Fluid Type - Dextron or SAE20? thread, the Transmission Fluid type thread, and the threads they link to.

______________________________________________________



I greatly appreciate everyone's input--thanks, guys.

Steve



edit 3/3/15: Mobil moved their Mobil 1 Engine Oils Table; edited the link
edit 5/13/21: Oil filter table image disappeared over the years. Added it in using newer ccfan image feature.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2013 at 3:56pm
nice post!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gsyogi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2013 at 5:23pm
I hope that I am putting my question in the correct spot/thread ... if not I hope that it can be bumped over to the "What Weight Oil" thread. Out here in CO, I will be getting down to preparing our '94 SN to spend winter in the garage (688 +/- hrs. on the Ford 351 Protec). I have been using the oil shown below, but based on this data (excellent work) I am considering switching to the Valvoline VR1 20W/50 (regular VV211). Can I just make the switch with no worries/concerns about the slight change in the weight of oil (i.e., out with the old, in with the new)? I am in the sweet spot on the other fluids. Thanks in advance.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rapok4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2013 at 5:29pm
Great information. Thanks for putting it together. Makes it much easier to make a proper choice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2013 at 6:06pm
Brian - Don't sweat it, just change to your new brand. It's not like your feeding MAC software to a PC!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2013 at 6:18pm
Brian, VR1 or Mobil 1 will work, I switched from Mobil 1 to VR1 for an oil change a couple of years ago because Wally world stopped stocking the Mobil 1 in the jugs. Called a friend who is a GM at a store in Austin, and his store had it back on the shelf a few months later and so did mine. I though the miter felt a touch smoother with the Mobil 1, but I didn't notice anything different on the guages.

I've heard on a different site that Motorcraft specs a different filter for the big retailers than it does for the dealers and others, I'm guessing they tested the cheap one. I'll have to check and see what else Wallyworld stocks next time I go, if that Fram filter has the grip stuff I'll use that, otherwise I'll stock up on the K&N's with the handy nut on the end. I hate having to take the filter loose so anything that helps out is good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gsyogi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2013 at 11:46pm
Thanks for all the responses ... Don, I think I will lay up with the VR1 this year simply because of the slightly higher ZDDP (BTW ... the stereo turned out great!) ... thanks again!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KRoundy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2013 at 12:44pm
Yup - this is definitely going on the FAQ.

Well done!

Here's another shout-out to see if we can make the FAQ a sticky?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boardersdad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2013 at 9:59pm
Brian, I think it's wise to move away from the Castrol GTX Diesel 15W-40.

I realize you're moving away from it, but I wanted to share my thoughts about the Castrol...

The old data sheet for that oil showed Zinc 1300 ppm, Phosphorus 1100 ppm. The latest data sheet on the Castrol website no longer lists the zinc and phosphorus levels for that grade, and adds the SN standard.

Now, many people will reference that the SN standard (and the SM standard before it) limit phosphorus to 800 ppm. But, it's more complicated than that. Under the old SM standard, the phosphorus limit only applied to the "ILSAC" grades 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20, 5W-30 and 10W-30; other grades were exempt. Is that the case under the SN standard? I believe so, because the above-recommended Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20W-50 (conventional) and Mobil 1 15W-50 both include SN on their data sheets, but have the desired levels of zinc and phosphorus (these grades are presumably still exempt from the phosphorus limit and, provided they meet the rest of the standard, can still claim "SN").

So the bottom line with regard to Castrol is that they removed the zinc and phosphorus levels from their data sheet for that grade oil.

By the way, an option would be to use a ZDDP additive, so that "any" suitable oil could have high enough anti-wear levels. However, I have read that too much ZDDP can increase carbon deposits inside the engine.

So what's my point? Simple... this gets way too complicated way too fast. We have a couple of oils (Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20W-50 and Mobil 1 15W-50) that already have the target anti-wear levels. And, most importantly, we have seasoned veterans using these oils in our exact application and recommending these oils.

So I think you're wise to switch. And I agree that no flushing should be needed (let it drain awhile and obviously change out the filter). I'm switching to one of these oils, too.

Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DEF187 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2013 at 11:14pm
Nice post! I have been running VR1 for about 4 years on my 89 sport and once I switched I noticed my oil pressure running a factor higher. I have just assumed that this is in relation to the viscosity of the 20w-50 oil. Does anyone know if the higher pressure has any other negative affects on my motor?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-26-2013 at 9:44am
There is a slight HP loss but it is miniscule.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gsyogi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2013 at 6:59pm
Again, great information and please feel free to move this post around to another spot ... As long as we are posting up data and current recommendations, can someone advise me on the top brand of fuel filter/water separator. I am currently running this unit in our '94 SN (it was changed out as part of last season's winterization) ... also can someone recommend the correct service/change interval. Thanks.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-11-2014 at 3:58pm
Hmm interesting that I missed this thread. Anyway, I have been running Brad Penn Racing oils in the 98 Sport and the 64 Ski for several years now. It meets all the required ZDDP needs. It is also pretty reasonably priced. Here is a link the their website and you can look at each products data sheet (i.e. if you want to run straight 30W, 40W or one of the multi-viscosity oils). They also have independant testing verification of their ZDDP levels.

Brad Penn Racing Oils
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-11-2014 at 4:09pm
Are you running the 20W-50 in both boats?

If I'm reading the sheet correctly all their grades have 1,500 ppm zinc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-11-2014 at 4:17pm
Being that I am of German descent (at least that's what my wife blames most of my stubbornness on) I follow the manual to a tee, The 312 interceptor manual indicates straight 30W, so I run that in the Ski, and the PCM manual indicates straight 40W (unless you operate in ridiculously cold water) so I use straight 40W in the Sport. I do use the Racing or High Performance versions.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-11-2014 at 4:46pm
Got it. I was running either 10W30 or straight 30 weight in my '63, but found oil pressure dropping a bit when hot. Switched to 20W50 VR1 and pressure held steady, so stuck with it. I now run it in my 454 jet boat and 351 Sport, so will stick with it.

I've been aware of the Brad Penn name but know nothing about it, have never even seen a bottle of it.
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Recently a friend of mine completed a stroker build and he was having some weird things happening oil wise...loss of pressure and power...he is spinning as much as 5900 or so rpms Mercruiser recommend he use single weight oil which has solved those issures. His Sanger DXII runs 59 mph so far...small block.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-25-2014 at 10:43pm
Who built the engine that he's going to mercruiser for advice? Yikes. Roller cam presumably? That opens up oil choices immensely.
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He builds marine engines ...just some guy that knows a thing or two...he had built a 355 carbed that was good for 51 so I introduced him to my friend who had purchased a stroker from smeding performance that wasnt working well...he reworked it and cooperated with my friend o work out the bugs in regard to efi...mefi...to get a good tune been fiddling with it all summer and its finally producing the desired results.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skitique179 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2015 at 1:25am
What is the consensus on how often transmission fluid should be changed? I had mine rebuilt two years ago. It has run flawlessly and I have checked the level but not changed. The boat probably has about 70 hours in those two years. Time for a change?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Waterdog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2015 at 8:22am
After the trans is rebuilt I'd change the fluid in just a couple of hours. at least look at it to mark sure it's clean.

After your sure it's clean (not making metal) maybe every 100 hours / 3 years. It's only a QT.    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2015 at 8:23am
Originally posted by skitique179 skitique179 wrote:

What is the consensus on how often transmission fluid should be changed? I had mine rebuilt two years ago. It has run flawlessly and I have checked the level but not changed. The boat probably has about 70 hours in those two years. Time for a change?


I change mine every 50 hours when I do the engine oil. 2 quarts of Transmax fluid is only $12.

I think every year or 100 hours would suffice as long as you check the level regularly.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-04-2015 at 10:17am
The end of each season when you change the motor oil and do not use synthetic.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 4th ski-doo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2016 at 9:30pm
Why not use synthetic?

I'm using Amsoil 15/40 Diesel/Marine Oil, my question was with a 2013 that has a remote oil filter can I or do I want to change from the PCM filter or will the Motorcraft FL1 A be a better option?

IL've been using all PCM filters and separators so far, I've been told the fluid on the V Drive only needs to be checked regularly but not changed. I'm behind on the tranny,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2016 at 10:00pm
Originally posted by quinner quinner wrote:

The end of each season when you change the motor oil and do not use synthetic.

Originally posted by 4th ski-doo 4th ski-doo wrote:

Why not use synthetic?

Joe,
Don't be confused as CQ is referring to not using synthetic in the trans and not the engine.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-10-2016 at 9:58am
Doo, the FL1A will be A-Ok, that is what I use, just be sure the rubber gasket comes off with the old filter when changing.

Synthetic motor oil is fine however PCM says you should not extend the change intervals as you might in a car.. No synthetic in the trans
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Terp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-17-2021 at 10:36pm
Just bringing this back to the top to see if anyone is aware of any changes with the oil ZDDP levels or the filter specs.
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