Stringer Repair 1985 2001 Ski Nautique

TX Foilhead wrote: I would, you're going to build a new one with the the new stringer. It sounds like you're adding a bit of work to the process. Get the stringer cut and figure out where you want it, bed it in some epoxy and faire out the transitions to the hull then cover it in fiberglass. No need wrap it first or do anything other than some CPES before it goes into the boat.

Thanks TX ~~~ I was doing some extra work there. I'm going to finish the grinding out tonight, clean everything up really well, and start bedding stringers in the AM.

Bedding Filler Preferences?

Okay ~ I've seen all of these used
1. Fiberglass Mat (trimmed to the dimensions of the bottom of the stringer)
2. 1/32 Milled Fiber
3. Aerosil-Cabosil

I have all 3 solutions represented in my purchase. Which one do you recommend?

My new Starboard side secondary stringer (all 4 coats of CPES, individually fiberglassed pieces, and bonded together with epoxy, etc. was a complete waste of time.

The stringer was 1.5 inches too short, and would not hug the floor like it did before I glued it together. I planed, sanded, etc., for about an hour. Then I made the best decision I could under the circumstances: I threw the stringer out of the boat with all the force I could muster, and followed as quickly as possible with the sledge hammer. After a surprisingly large number of blows, the stringer was reduced to kindling, and I felt better.



Thankfully, the same side main stringer fits like a glove. What should I bed it with? I've seen 3 different things used (mat, milled fiber, etc.)>

Soooooooo ~ the more I work on this project, the damage I seem to do.

I was trying to really "clean" out that groove that the secondary stringer buts into ~ with hopes of being in a position to attach it tomorrow. I did a really good job too.



Obviously this has to be addressed before I go in with the secondary. I was thinking some fiberglass mat and a few layers of cloth tape, but the area is in the middle of the seam (and really narrow).

What to do?

Resin, cloth, resin, repeat!

iplan wrote: SNobsessed wrote: Resin, cloth, resin, repeat! Should I epoxy something to the 'inside' that would give it a little firmness, and then make the repair from the outside?

Absolutely not!

Get under there with some tape.. apply the tape on the bottom to keep your repair from the top from dripping through. Use your flap disk to enlarge the area around the oops.. and taper the edges of the new area so you can apply increasingly larger layers of resin coated glass from the inside.... do this until your final layer is at least as high as the surrounding glass ( a coat or two overlapping the repair and the existing glass cant hurt since it will be unseen) and then go about your live. When you remove the tape from the bottom it will be smooth and ready to go.. no harm no foul.

I wish this hole was on the floor, but it's located in the transom (between the exhaust port and the speed sensor ~ where the secondary stringer is bonded to the transom. There is a ton of stuff to work around back there.....

With that information, do you still think working from the inside would be the easiest approach?

iplan wrote: With that information, do you still think working from the inside would be the easiest approach?

+3 with Joe and Tim. The gel on the outside is only for looks. Much like drywall,repair the structure,"spackle" the gelcoat from the outside sand and buff.

I would sand off only the high spots & proceed with the layup schedule.

Matt,
Welcome to CCfan. Some pictures would be great.

NO TREATED!! Since you have mentioned you have done stringer before, I sure hope you didn't use treated on them. The resin doesn't like treated and the bond quality is very poor even with a CPES treatment. Plus, it's very difficult to find treated below the recommended 8% moisture content. What was the moisture content of the wood on your previous jobs? I sure hope you check it.

You can find several great threads on going with composite stringers. It's more work and more time but many feel it's worth it.

The thin glass over the foam is original. If you are going with a foam hull, it's a great method. If you plan on a no foam hull, the common floor is plywood with CPES, epoxy and a light glass covering. Depending on your cross bracing spacing between the stringers, you can go with 1/2 or 5/8. 3/4 is way overkill. Exterior ply is fine.

8122pbrainard - Muchas Gracias friend. I haven't done a stringer job since I was a senior in College, 20yr reunion coming up. I'm returning all the treated and getting regular. Thanks for the heads up. I'll also be pickup up some good tool to grind all bonding surfaces. Any recommendations? I'm thinking power wire brush'ish or corse sanding.    

This weekend I have to make the measurements for all the cutting. The BIG question, does anyone have templates for the stringers? I can make it work from the KILLER pics posted and from what we cut out. But all the wood in this boat was goo. If there were any builder notes that or I missed them in other posts, PLEASE, would be killer.

However, when I saw a sledge I was like ooopsss... Hoping to avoid that.

More reading to do, iplan, send that rain to ATX, we NEED it, all lakes here 39% full and dropping...

Is this the CPES of which you speak? http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html

I'm thinking what I'll do is white foam, like from a beer cooler, in pockets of stringer and then plywood with light glass. Seems most cost effective and readily available.

I called a few places about composite material. It would add about $1500 to the cost of the job and nothing is in town. Even in ATX, now the 10th largest city in America.

Flap Disks - http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Flap+discs&qpvt=Flap+discs&FORM=IGRE

Cupped concrete leveling diamond discs - http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Cupped+concrete+leveling+diamond+discs&qs=n&form=QBIR&pq=cupped+concrete+leveling+diamond+discs&sc=0-0&sp=-1&sk=

TX Foilhead Uuuu ain't kidding. Those are big boy tools.

Well the trailer looks nice
There's tons of threads on stringers just start searching. Use the advanced search or Google I found they work the best. I already did an '85 rebuild and can tell you you can't get aggressive enough with the grinding pads I got the most use out of a 4" diamond masonry blade and 4" 24 grit grinding discs.
You'll just be beating your head on the wall if you try the flapper discs or home depot type 60 grit wheels.
Good luck

Yea gun-driver, thanks for the node , its does gotz a nice trailer, but its NOT part of the deal, whaaa whaaa, but probably won't need one. She is still on that trailer and will be until done. It was an OMG, somebody wants this piece of crap moment, and I was like yea, right here buddy, that's me. Actually, they got love for that boat and probably will buy it from me when I Get-R-Done. I have a 1985 Century Coronado 454 that needs stringers right behind the Nautique that is better suited for a dude with athletically expired knees who wants to Surf