Grounding Fuel Tank

My 1955 Chris Craft restoration is almost finished and I'm concerned about fuel tank grounding. Part of the original copper fuel line had to be replaced with rubber and now the fuel tank isn't grounded. Should I run a ground wire from the tank to the engine block, or bridge the part of the copper fuel line that was replaced with rubber with a wire, or what?

Sam

Sam,
I'd go with the extra wire. There's something that always bothered me about using the copper fuel line as an electrical conductor! However, the practice was quite common especiaaly for the ground up to the dash when the old copper tubing was used for the mechanical oil pressure gauges.

Pete I am also wondering if the fuel filler should be grounded since it's isolated from the tank by the hose?? I always thought I should do it.

How would you ground a plastic inline fuel filter when it has rubber fuel line on both ends? Maybe I should replace it with a metal inline filter with a wire soldered to it and run the other end of the wire to the block. I'm baffled by wiring and electricity.

Sam

john b wrote: Only metallic components of the fuel system need to be grounded. Grounding a non-conducive component, such as a plastic fuel filter, serves no purpose.

John,
I just reviewed this subject on Friday at the OSHA 10 hour class I went to. I asked the question since the other day our fire chief mentioned it during an inspection. The chief saw we had a plastic gas can for our lawn mower and the conversation went to having to sit them on the ground during filling just like you do a metal. At the OSHA class I asked and both the certified instructors confirmed it as well. Although the risk is less with plastic, they will build static charges.

Now, does the grounding of the sender, automatically ground the connected tank?

And just because you can't clog a subject enough;
183.572 – Grounding  (http://www.uscgboating.org/regulations/boatbuilder_s_handbook/fuel_standards_partp.aspx)
Each metallic component of the fuel fill system and fuel tank which is in contact with fuel must be statically grounded so that the resistance between the ground and each metallic component of the fuel fill system and fuel tank is less than 100 ohms.
Fuel flowing from the dispensing nozzle into a fuel tank is a potential source of a static electric charge which could cause a spark between the dispensing nozzle and metal component of the fuel tank fill system. To prevent such a spark from occurring, metallic components of the fuel tank fill system and metallic fuel tanks must be grounded.
Grounding or bonding may be accomplished by connecting the metallic components electrically by running a wire from one component to the next, and so forth to the boat’s ground. Grounding can usually be accomplished by a connection to the common bonding conductor or the engine negative terminal.
If the fuel tank deck fill fitting is nonmetallic, and nonconductive hose is used as a fill pipe, there is no need for grounding the fill fitting. Chrome-plated plastic fill fittings are treated the same as metallic fittings.
NOTES:
1. If a metal hose attachment fitting is used, it must be grounded.
2. Fill cap retaining chains need not be grounded.

I have used the metal wire coiled within the fuel fill hose as the grounding wire for the deck fill. It makes for a neat looking installation. Check it with an Ohm meter to assure it's continuity.

FWIW-I think Gary was referring to the filler neck and not the fuel filter.

Bri892001 wrote: Now, does the grounding of the sender, automatically ground the connected tank?

NO

Rubber gasket and plastic washers under the screw heads in many cases. There is aground buss welded to the tank for a very specific reason.

sam57 wrote: Does this all mean I run a wire from one of the screws that attach the fuel sender to the tank and attach the other end to where the negative battery cable attaches to the block and disregard the rubber and plastic? Sam

Does your fuel gauge work? The sender needs to be grounded since that's the grounding point of the gauge.

Many of the Chris Crafts and Centuries of the 40's and 50's didn't have fuel gauges or temperature gauges, it was an option. If it was pumping water the cooling system was working, and you knew you had fuel by sticking the tank. As a matter of fact, a wood fuel stick with notches came with these boats.

sam57 wrote: The float mechanisim is rusty and I doubt it would work and I never trust them anyway. I would rather just "stick" the tank to check the fuel level. Does not the fact the screws holding the sender to the tank contact the tank make for a good grounding point? Plus, having electricity at the fuel tank just doesn't seem right. As far as I'm concerned, the fuel gauge fills a hole in the dash and looks good, I just want to be safe.

Do you know how to use an Ohm meter? As John mentions, you need less than 100. If you want to just stick the tank that's fine but on the other hand you say you want to be safe too. Don't let being lazy get in the way of safety.   What other USCG standands are you just ignoring? What kind of "restoration" are you doing to the 55?

Sorry Greg,   My '66 and '74 does too.   But, Sams '55 Chris * Craft don't or shouldn't.

See, Greg.    Pete don't even have a hose.

Sorry Pete,    I really need to stop doing that.