Custom 1965 Correct Craft Mustang build

Hussler wrote: EDIT: also, pistons facing towards the front, didnt see that before! ugh.

Reverse rotation.

63 Skier wrote: Sorry about the flywheel issues, but I'm guessing you figured there would be a few added surprises! Nice work on the Chrysler. I didn't realize upgraded rod bolts were ever needed, am obviously familiar with ARP head bolts but haven't heard people talk about them for rod bolts. I really enjoy your threads/pictures, helps expand my limited rebuild knowledge.

Thanks! To be honest I'm kinda glad the flywheel is bad, I had no idea why sometimes the starter was perfect and other times it wouldn't even turn.

I believe the rod bolts are similar to head bolts in that your only suppose to reuse them once. This motors been taken apart at least three times, most of the rod nuts didn't even match

If you ever have any questions I write a lot of stuff down I just forget to put it on the thread.

Today's mission: buy two 7/16 bolts to put the Ford on the stand LOL

Not mustang related but I finished the Chrysler yay! Everybody likes pics so, here ya go. I determined the failed connecting rod was due to a stretched bolt, as it fell off during disassembly LOL. Got all ARP rod bolts and resize, clevite 77 rod and main bearings. My grinder did an awesome job, each journal specd out to exactly .002 oil clearance. Got a new melling pump, lifters ect ect. Everything went really well but I spent a lot of time double checking crap. The motor was setup for standard rotation... even though its reverse... so I took a lot of time making sure things went in the right way. It was obvious it was messed with many times before. The rockers were actually reversed left and right, the ends barely touched the valve tips! They even faced the pistons forward (should be reversed.) Anyway, here ya go.

























I then quickly shoved the Chrysler into the corner and started slaving away at the mustang. Third pic down shows I'm already going to be investing more money on top of the money I really don't have. The flywheel has got quite a few ****ed up teeth, which explains my starting issues. My starter rebuilder guy sys its in perfect shape and im like wtf, it wont crank it over! Well there ya go mystery solved.

63 Skier wrote: Hussler wrote: Nah not worth it, Ive seen the engine dynos. Chryslers never put out. One of the great come-backs in CCFan history! It does kind of look like you are doing the rebuild in the living room in that picture. Nice setup!

Family room , I was afraid because of the huge temp fluxs in the garage that the bearings wouldnt spec correctly

Hussler wrote: Nah not worth it, Ive seen the engine dynos. Chryslers never put out.

One of the great come-backs in CCFan history!

It does kind of look like you are doing the rebuild in the living room in that picture. Nice setup!

Did you pour that engine a glass of wine and spread some Bree when you cuddled up with it by the fire?

Guess I never posted the pics of the heads or other junk. Twisted wedge heads, cam research camshaft , harland sharp rockers, and my new chrome covers.

john b wrote: I would pull the suspect piston and examine it since that is the most likely culprit. Before you do so you should examine the heads and old intake gaskets / surfaces carefully. How were your intake gaskets?

Head gasket looked good, intake gasket looked well sealed.

john b wrote: If the valve seat was destroyed and the valve was not closing / sealing it would be possible, but not likely, that the combustion pressures may have blown out the gasket between the intake manifold and the head causing the combustion pressures to escape into the valley, pressurizing the crankcase.

It was just the exhaust valve that went bad, intake had a crack in the seat but nothing that could cause a large pressure leak.

john b wrote: A completely destroyed valve guide could cause this condition as well, but it would be very visibly damaged to do this. Are your valve guide seals in the proper positions? If the seal on the dead cylinder has been forced up the valve stem it may indicate a valve guide problem significant enough to cause a problem. Is there a burn mark on the too of the piston? The leaking valve could conceivably cause the mixture to go lean and the resulting high temperature could damage the piston behind the compression ring. How was the plug when you examined it? These are all things that can be easily checked visually. I hope this helps.

Valve guides seem to be in good shape, but the valve seals definitely leak. Seals appear to be properly installed. All the pistons look good, minor carbon buildup on all but nothing that looks bad. All spark plugs look evenly washed.

And thanks!

I would pull the suspect piston and examine it since that is the most likely culprit. Before you do so you should examine the heads and old intake gaskets / surfaces carefully. How were your intake gaskets? If the valve seat was destroyed and the valve was not closing / sealing it would be possible, but not likely, that the combustion pressures may have blown out the gasket between the intake manifold and the head causing the combustion pressures to escape into the valley, pressurizing the crankcase. If it was ruptured the intake cycle could draw air / oil into the port and the compression pressure could also force this mixture back into the intake manifold / carburetor. I would not think that this would occurr if the engine is capable of making 50# of compression. A completely destroyed valve guide could cause this condition as well, but it would be very visibly damaged to do this. Are your valve guide seals in the proper positions? If the seal on the dead cylinder has been forced up the valve stem it may indicate a valve guide problem significant enough to cause a problem. Is there a burn mark on the too of the piston? The leaking valve could conceivably cause the mixture to go lean and the resulting high temperature could damage the piston behind the compression ring. How was the plug when you examined it? These are all things that can be easily checked visually. I hope this helps.

"Shooting oil" is a pretty amazing amount of blow by. I wouldn't expect one cylinder at 50 psi to cause that amount of pressure in the crankcase, though I suppose at WOT it might. The carb though - that's a long path for oil! Has to get past the rings and be blown back up through the faulty intake valve.

Blow by implies losing cylinder pressure through the piston rings. Perhaps you could tell us what symptoms led you to that diagnosis. Then we could poke holes in your theory rather than guess at what you're seeing.

PCM 351w's were set up with PCV's from the get go. Sounds like someone modified yours if it only had breathers.

Hussler wrote: Oh yeah, and I got my new valve covers. Very nice look to them. I'm also converting the Motor from breather style to pcv

Jim, what's the advantage of going to a PCV valve instead of the breathers?

Just kidding, apparently I can post pics from my phone.unfortunately the phonewouldn't pick up the cracks in the head


All the cylinders look very nice. I don't understand how there could be so much blow by.



Stock bore, always nice to see.

Going to probably start breaking down the motor soon, damn shame to take apart something that runs, oh well I guess its part of the game.



Video VVV



Also test fit the exhaust manifold and valve cover to one of the new trickflows, interference of maybe 1/4" tops. I could grind off part of the valve cover but I really want chrome covers anyway (already enroute) If the cover didnt have the decrotive heat sink on top it would have been a non issue.