Not another Mustang restoration thread.

Agreed

Wait, are you guys saying fiberglass can be repaired?

TRBenj wrote: Nah you were right. Incorrect and looks like crap.

I love the pan too, looks very nice, but I don't have the skills you do Gary. Mine comes out really nice with the 3M system I used on the boat, but it won't buff out the damage.
I post these photos looking for criticism and suggestions. Don't be afraid to hurt my feelings. This doesn't apply to Pete, he's like the Honey Badger..

John,
If you can do a Coosa stringer job, you can do a minor fiberglass repair. You are underestimating yourself!

8122pbrainard wrote: John, If you can do a Coosa stringer job, you can do a minor fiberglass repair. You are underestimating yourself!

Pete, with all due respect for your opinion, it would be difficult to underestimate my incompetence.
Structural repairs-framer
Cosmetic repairs-cabinetmaker

john b wrote: Pete, with all due respect for your opinion, it would be difficult to underestimate my incompetence. Structural repairs-framer Cosmetic repairs-cabinetmaker

Except fiberglass is easier than wood, you screw up wood finish work and its all over - fiberplastic you just grind it off and go at it again.   You have a lot to work with on that floor pan if you get the mold from Gary and watch a you tube video or two you will be dangerous -

Going vinyl directly over the coosa floor is probably doable but it would have to be flatter than typical for it to look ok,

I would recommend patching the holes with glass from the back now... the gel/texture can be done after the fact once installed if you so choose.

Don’t let the pan cosmetics slow you down now that you’ve finally got some momentum!

Also a valid option (though the pan is only ~1/16” thick).

Hollywood wrote: Or use Gary's other trick method of plugging the hole with a polished carriage bolt.

Or a truss head:

My old cutlass bearing fought the good fight.
I'm ordering some stuff from Skidim and want to confirm the packing size. I did a search and it's inconclusive and the Skidim site only adds to my confusion. Looks like 1/4 for the shaft packing but I'm not sure about the rudder. 1/4 maybe? 3/8? Anyone?

I ordered an ARE double taper prop shaft from Skidim. The shaft on both of my H/M Mustangs was 39" tip to tip so I ordered a 39". Skidim contacted me to tell me a 70 Mustang uses a 40" prop shaft. I talked to them for a while on the phone and they seemed pretty certain. Does anyone know the correct length offhand? Seems unlikely both of my Mustangs had the wrong length shaft that just happened to be 39" How critical is this measurement?

Ordering a custom length shaft before you know how long it’s supposed to be seems like a fools errand. I’ve seen enough inconsistencies and sloppy fitting shafts from the factory that I wouldn’t be basing my length on a 60’s print out OR the original shaft- unless you were certain it was set up properly and that the engine will be going back in the exact same place.

Minimizing strut to prop clearance should yield the best performance and put the least amount of stress on the shaft (overhung load). I would aim for 1/4-3/8”, just enough to get a puller on.

The only way to get any sort of precision on the length is to confirm the engine position first, and measure the distance from the trans output flange to the aft of the strut body.

Tim has a valid point John. Your current setup is closer than mine.