Not another Mustang restoration thread.

Yeah that section behind the engine box would not support anything. I never even had that part in my boat, the first thing I did was make a temp wooden panel to replace it.

You could ply the floor and use the floorplan over the ply instead of vinyl or carpet... sturdy and looks original.

I also would not reinforce the pan with wood, you'd never get it out of the boat. Mine you had to flex to remove it. Plus it would be quite heavy and awkward.

This is what my back panel looked like

well I see that UK actually did that in the thread mentioned. That was a good read. Very intersting.

john b wrote: Anyone associated with the site sell Trident silicone exhaust hose? I want to replace mine. I believe this is a good choice.

I used Trident silicone exhaust bellows on my 81. Nice stuff, get out your credit card.

Hi Gary,
Your floor pan looks a little different than mine. Here is the foot board and the section that goes in the center between the engine and under the rear seat. Mine does not have cut outs in it for the exhaust hoses or behind the engine. It is pretty much intact, however it does have wear marks from the dog house chaffing over the years. The plywood backing looks to be 1/4" and does not extend all the way to the rear, probably because the stringers have a slight rise in them under the rear seat. There is also a chaffing mark from the fiberglass seat shell on the panel. They are not noticeable when the boat is together as the seat and dog house that caused them hide them, that is, until you lift the dog house.
A little of the resin that the plywood was originally coated with has begun to chip off. I am not sure what to replace it with, or if I should try CEPS in the areas that have chipped prior to resin. The unfortunate part is that someone at sometime has screwed into the foot board to mount a fire extinguisher judging by the holes. I believe a little gel coat mixing and color match dabbed in the holes would make them hard to see.
I openly admit that although I have restored several boats, I do not have the skills working with fiberglass that many of you on this site do. Keep that in mind if I am asking dumb questions.

I just want to be clear on the chroming. There are small imperfections in some of mine. I was told when I brought it in that when doing pitted diecast with detail there are basically two choices. Buff it until the pits are gone sacrificing some detail, or leave some imperfections and plate it. I told him to do it to the best of his knowledge and experience. The scoop has a couple of small imperfections near the detail on the edge, and the script CC badges have some in the recessed area below the letters. That is because I told him to leave as much detail as possible on those pieces. I believe it is important to explain exactly what you want before work is started. There are NO imperfections in the windshield hardware or lifting rings.

Another surprising find. When I bought the boat I tried to see how many hours were on it, but the hour meter lens was so cloudy I couldn't see anything. The PO asked if I knew what that meter was. He said he had no idea. I polished the lens with some plastic polish and got it fairly clear. Surprise, the hour meter is not only really cool with a sweep minute hand, but it was still working. The boat registers 1652:38. I am going to look for a gauge rebuilder and see if I can have a new lens put in it.

Nice Jeep John, got any more pics?

The Jeep is a 1952 Willys M38 military 1/4 ton 4X4 Marine Corps issue.

Here is the hourmeter. It is a Seamaster made by Industrial Timer Corporation. It is the same as the one in my 69SS, however that one is toast.

mountaineerminer wrote: John, Your teasing me on purpose right? Now I spy possibly an Elto, 2 Rudes, and possible 2 Johnsons

No, I'm not teasing, it's just some old stuff I really don't need. I have restored some outboard motors and motorcycles for a couple of friends over the past few years, and I was given these instead of money. I do it mostly for fun, but its kinda hard to spend them at most stores. I am going to hang a couple in the family room and garage at the cottage. The little one is a Mighty Mite. I have a really nice 69 Merc 350 remote with the controls that will appear on ebay in the spring. Daughter 1 and had planned on building a small wooden boat and I got the 350 (35hp) to use on it. We couldn't decide on which one to build. I wanted the Wetback Hydroplane and she wanted a 10' V bottom runabout. My health problems and her lack of time pretty much killed that idea. She is fond of the Mustang though and I can hardly wait until she takes it to the Tiki Bar. The 69 Merc is one of the last years the Kiekhaefer name appears on them.

I may have to go to off topic with this Mountaineerminer,

If you wonder how long I have been a Merc fan, I included a photo taken on the day I got my first boat. It is a 1959 Lone Star Malibu. I was 12 years old and VERY proud as you can see in the photo. Thats a Mark 30 on the back if you don't recognize it.

Here is the hydroplane I wanted to build and put the Merc 350 on, and the "Squirt" that my daughter wanted to build. We never could agree. The hydro was a much easier build and came in a complete kit if you wanted to buy it that way. It would have been really fast with the 35 on it, plenty fast to get hurt or dead. The Mustang was a much better choice IMO. Someone will get a really nice, original 69 Merc 350. They're not really worth much in this economy. I even have the original controls and two very good condition original gas tanks, correct for a 69, that I found and bought for the project.



Here is another "fix" for your Merc addiction. I am so over that now. The 48 year old outboard goes up for sale in the spring, it was a deal I made with Mrs. B. I already know I won't miss it, I have fallen for a prettier, younger 41 year old!

Merc in action



Squirt


Wetback hydro

Can someone confirm that I am looking at the correct exhaust hose for Theseus Paradox? This is what I intend to order in 3";

Trident silicone 202V-BLUE VHT   Glossy Blue 100% Silicone Rubber, Multi-Ply Polyester Reinforced

I don't want to get it wrong since it would be a lot of money to throw away. It looks like $485 for 12'

Trident silicone hose link

NEW Ultimate quality Silicone Marine Exhaust & Water hose. #202V Blue Very Hi Temp. [4 to 6 ply polyester reinforcement 350°F (177°C)]
See Marine Wet Exhaust Systems Catalog. ISO 13363 Std. Pending.
10 YEAR WARRANTY

1" to 18"
25 to 457mm     
Blue or Red w/ White Stripe

I.D.: 1" (25mm) to 8-5/8" (219mm)
Lengths: 6' (1.8m) & 12' (3.65m)
ALL: 3' (0.91m)




I see they also have a model with a ribbed casing. I am not sure why, possibly for flexibility.      Trident Blue Corra-Sil Marine Wet Exhaust & Water Hose (SAE J2006)
#252v
NEW Ultimate quality Silicone Marine Exhaust & Water hose. #252V Blue Very Hi Temp. [4 to 6 ply polyester reinforcement 350°F (177°C)] dramatically exceeds all standards and lasts up to 6 times longer than black rubber. (SAE J2006, ABYC and NMMA) Stds.** (see below).
See Marine Wet Exhaust Systems Catalog. ISO 13363 Std. Pending.
10 YEAR WARRANTY

3/4" to 18"
19mm to 457mm     
Blue

I.D.: 1" (25mm) to 8-5/8" (219mm)
Coils: 60' (18.28m)
Lengths: 6' (1.8m) & 12' (3.65m)
ALL: 3' (0.91m)

Seems like overkill John. A silicone 90 right off the manifolds would be nice for the HM's,I'm using a stainless one. Regular hose or mufflers would be fine the rest of the way,IMO.

John, you can get the 3" SS elbows at Verocious Motorsports for $25/ea. You may be able to get 2 90's out of a single 180 degree bend and save a few bucks.



I would not bother with the Trident hose, its nice stuff but extreme overkill. I still have the original hoses in my '71 and the stuff they sell nowadays is far superior, no doubt. Stick with the corrugated hose, the price is about the same as the hardwall and softwall, and it bends much nicer (and should hold up better). Expect to pay ~$15/ft or so.

I will consider using plain rubber hoses, but the Trident silicone looks pretty nice. guess I was just thinking that I sometimes like overkill. I wouldn't think that the EGT on this engine would be any different from the others, probably 1100-1300. This boat is mostly a toy to me. The hoses are not highly visible however. I am replacing all of the hoses on the boat, fuel and cooling system too. I read what I found on the water suction side hoses while searching. Does anyone have anything to add on suction hoses.
I also found that the fuel tank cannot be rebuilt and retain the original paint, bummer! I'll keep them both and just rebuild one so I still have an original, both are useable as is.

I have been keeping the buffer spinning and I fit some of the new chrome on the deck. I would like to know if the wooden "flag poles" that I see on some of the Mustangs are what they were fitted with new. I will also need a flag. Are they called flag poles? Sometimes my ignorance is overwhelming.

That looks great Gary. I have a flag that one of the members of the Mark Twain club made up for our boats. It is a copy of the original made by Taylor Made, but was made with nylon instead of the original material, which I believe is much nicer looking. The minimum order is 50 and you must submit artwork. I wonder if there would be enough interest to have these made up.




Flags