Not another Mustang restoration thread.

I took the end cover down from .0925 to .0870 to remove the wear pattern. The wear plate on the shaft end is reversible and so that came to be. The end plate on the pump off of my "good" engine is much more worn than this one. I am guessing it will take about .0150 to remove the wear pattern on that one. BTW, I found where the rubber chunks in the tranz cooler came from. I included a before and after photo of the end plate on top. The nasty end plate is from my "good" boat.

Covers have seemed to have dried up John. My original is in real bad shape,too far gone to clean up. The one I have been using is starting to get some good grooves in it already too,going to have to just start making them ourself's. The wear plate was,up to last year anyway,could still be found,I got one on ebay.
Our original pump cover is 11850-80 and was superseded by 9280-01 and yet again with 12064-0000

John,
I can tell from the color the cover is brass and not bronze like you mentioned. If you do have to make a new cover, I'd stick with the brass. Brass is going to be more corrosion resistant than stainless The stainless being subjected to water for extended periods of time will corrode. Regarding hardness, yes the SS would be harder but the unknown would be would the impeller then wear faster? 6" lengths can be found at McMaster. I'd go for the 360

John,
$216!!! WOW! If you don't feel like making one for yourself, take the cover to a machine shop and have them quote CNC machining a quantity for you and sell the extras!

What diameter is the cover? Several pieces of C360 round stock on ebay for around $20. Simple lathe job. Hole pattern would also be a breeze.

john b wrote: Bruce, You're asking for trouble posting that photo of your sweet restored Mustang finished the way you chose without your "Pete" filter on. Does he know about that app?

John, I would guess that the PO of our boat, 1962 Classic, like you, thought the copper and brass looked too nice to paint. We've left it as is as he also had the pulleys chromed and we're happy with the appearance of the engine the way that it is, and the boat needs so much work we're not going to start doing the engine over. The copper does dull over time. It can be painted anytime. Your parts look great.

I did a little more checking. These 11830-0000 and 11831-0000 end plates look correct and are very inexpensive. I ordered one for the spare. I will let you know how it looks. $25.15 delivered to my door..


Jabsco 11830-0000

Can anyone tell me how much clearance there is between the top of the flame arrester and the motorbox on a Ford 302? I forgot to measure it before disassembly.

As we discussed I am not reusing the C8OE heads. They need to be acid dipped, magnafluxed, stellite seats installed, stainless valves, springs tension checked and possibly replaced, new seals and a valve job. The GT40P heads are good but by the time they are built they cost more than a new set of aluminum Ford Racing E303-X turbo swirl heads by a knock off manufacturer fully assembled and ready to go. They are possibly more similar to the C8OEs than the GT40Ps are as far as external cosmetic differences. It would also look nice with a little bling like the H/M aluminum intake manifold from that era which is still produced by H/M. I believe it would be very close to original in appearance especially since the heads are masked by the exhaust, intake and chrome valve covers. It is possible the H/M intake is 1-2" higher than the iron one on there now,,but I haven't emailed to check yet. The boat will lose about 74# just with the intake and heads, and I'm sure it will wake the engine up a bit, although it should have adequate power stock. It is interesting to note that the engine had severe scale in the water jacket, but the aluminum timing cover had no corrosion in the water passages. It appears aluminum holds up better than iron in the marine environment this boat was subjected to for some reason. Multiple drivers will use this boat and it will be kept on a lift. It will not be a boathouse queen and I'm sure it will get dinged up a bit. Talking with Jan about it I don't think anyone in the family who uses it cares about these issues and other than some Correct Craft reunions I doubt it will ever be on display, except for Greers Tiki Bar. I need to keep moving forward. Holman Moody Intake

8122pbrainard wrote: You are forgiven!

Thanks Pete, I think the only thing a casual enthusiast will notice may be the aluminum intake, and if painted, possibly not even that. Most will probably assume they came on it since it's the proper era and MFG. I lost another 8-10 lbs with the plastic fuel tank and could lose another 35# with a lightweight Braille battery for a total of around 119#. . Now I just need to work on my fat a**.

John,
Yes, you are correct that the rotation is the same.

So surprise, they just bend the studs to fit the adapter. I guess I will have to bend them if I opt for the H/M aluminum manifold. So that clearance question, does anyone know the answer? Is there 2" of clearance for the arrester? If I should get a wild hair and go with a DUI will it fit?

John,
How is everything going?

Peter

I CPESed the new plywood for my 'toon motor pad and it went farther than I remembered on the new ply. I had a bit left over so I tried it on the top of about 10" of Mustang stringer I had prepared. Holy moly, that old stringer is literally like a sponge. It hasn't been in the water for 14-15 years and that wood is soooooo dry. I bought a quart to see how it goes. I may need a gallon before this is done. I didn't remember the odor being as strong as it is either. Not bad outside but when I put the stuff in the garage to keep it warm for the night the odor of the evaporating solvents is overpowering.

Yea that cpes is smelly stuff good thing your garage is separate ! Won't take you long to get the hang of glassing