Not another Mustang restoration thread.

The comments I made above were before I saw the gaps. Cutting off the top might be the best plan since it's in such a short area. As to prepping I would think that if the wood is dry as you say and cpes soaks in you'd be good to go. I don't think I'd be making my own though I'd just buy the real stuff instead of experimenting on what the correct mixture would be. Use epoxy when closing it back up.

A little xylene mixed in with epoxy is all it takes to make a watery consistency. It's not rocket surgery.

I'd cut the tops off the stringers with gaps/delam like you've shown. Thinned epoxy followed by thickened epoxy (high strength filler like milled fiber) would be my choice. The consistency of the thickened resin would depend on the size of the gap in filling.

For glass prep, I'd mechanically roughen the surface accepting new glass... Sand/grind followed by acetone. Make sure not to attach any new glass directly to gel (in the bilge). Grind down to glass in these areas.

John,
At one time, I contacted the rot doc about oily wood since I've got plenty of it in the hull of the 1915 launch. The response was very logical. The strong solvents in ether the purchased or home brew will "eat" into the oils in the wood but it will cure slower and not as hard. If normal epoxy is then used over the treated wood, it will bond with good results.

Didn't it disbond when the wood shrank? What happens when you fill the space with butter and the wood expands?

Yes, Bruce it did. Good question? My guess is that the wood would just compress if the new glass over was done properly. If not then when it started swelling then it would pop "The Cap"off. ...... If fully encased in fiberglass would the wood swell again. It shrinks because lack of moisture right?

Riley wrote: Hard to believe that once treated and encased in glass/expoxy that the moisture content of the wood doesn't change, but if the cap pops off it's easy to fix.

Polyester resin is hygroscopic.

Haha.....well since we are in the business here at CCFan of mixing multiple layers of fiberglass and wood then we all need to be on the same page!

What is your point Bruce just because he's retired does not mean he has extra time. I find that there is even less. Everyone thinks,well your not doing anything can you do this for me,can you go with,etc

Riley wrote: I think you're all mad, but John's retired, so he may as well tear into them...

Bruce,
I always thought that the appraisal business was just like being retired!    

I guess cutting the top the full length of the stringers and applying as much CPES as they will take, followed by thickened epoxy in the event of any voids, and then capping them is the way to go. I will be putting in an order to Jamestown Distributors for some of the stuff I need unless someone has a better choice. Here is what I have so far:

I think a gallon of CPES should do it including treating the new wood floor I will need to install under the pan.
I am looking at the 1 gallon Total Boat 5:1 epoxy kit.
Some milled fiberglass may come in handy
I don't know if microballons or silica thickener would be better for my project.
What cloth should I use for best results?
I will need something to glue the sole down. What's best?

Does anyone have any comments or suggestions on things I have failed to consider?
I will not be able to devote 100% of my time until sometime in December. I can do a day here and there until then. I want to have the stuff I need on hand so I can make good use of my time.
I am leaning pretty hard on everyone and I want you to know I appreciate the help I am getting. I may not have the skills to do an expert job, but I am confident with your guidance I will use the right products.

Tim turned me on to us composites too John,I'm sure that is what he used on the seats. Get the measuring pumps they take out any guess work.

John, as Tim stated in his post above. A thinner tighter weave is easier to work with as it lays down really nice, forms well around curves etc BUT you will need more plys to add thickness and structural strength. ALWAYS round your corners as they will they down better and won't have a tendency lift up on you. Use a "pizza cutter" rotary style blade to cut long lengths of cloth and use a metal yardstick, or carpenter square as a fence to cut it. Cut it on a long 1x6 or something so as not to dull the blade and watch those fingers. It will lop off the end of your thumb/finger if you aren't careful ( seen it).

SHARP, SHARP SHARP sissors make the would of difference so don't scrimp on a decent pair and use them for cloth only.


I dug out my Delta Composite Traing manual for desriptions of the following.....


Milled Fibers -    Milled Fibers are used to thicken and reinforce resins. They are typically made of chopped glass (approx. 1/64 to 1/4 inch). Milled fibers are typically used to repair small holes in solid laminates.

Microballoons - These are very small hallow spheres. They are used to displace resin and lighten the potting compound. Microballoons are used as a core potting compound and a dent filler.

Fumed Silica [cab-o-sil] - Small cicular plates of silica added to resin as a thixotropic agent to prevent resin from sagging. Thixotropic agents are gel at rest but become fluid when agitated.

So there you have it.......maybe that will help you determine what is best to use. I have been meaning to do a composite 101 thread with pics of various things we use here at DAL that would easily apply to those of us restoring these old boats. Maybe I can get around to doing so this winter.

Let me know if I can help more John. Keep at it brother and the pics to show us your progress.

TimBob/Foot

   

john, I've got a bunch of glass & resin supplies from the ongoing Martinique project. Holler if you need anything. Plenty of cabosil, cloth tape, 3:1 US composite resin, CPES, etc. I won't go through it all this winter so you're welcome to anything you want to experiment or use. I can re-buy later if needed.

Yeah i didn't make it up this year with the new baby coming in late june, but we're headed up in october!

I'm planning on getting the boat out next summer.

Knowing me I'll probably be calling you for some help on the winterization process again haha.

John,
There's no need to worry about parts for the Velvet. Unlike the PCM's, they are pretty tough sp there's a chance it may outlast you and I combined!