Not another Mustang restoration thread.

Gary S wrote: silicone 3" 90's would be perfect if you could afford them or if they are even made.

Butt welt fittings are available as well

john b wrote: I am soliciting practical suggestions.

I do like Bruce's idea and many have done it. Rubber all the way back does lesson the connection points and thus the potential for leak points.

John,
The Escort in my Tique had the same problem with the elbows from the logs aiming directly at the stringers. The PO had a couple elbows welded together to overcome the issue.

On the West marine website, they have a listing for 3" 45 deg rubber exhaust elbows and a listing for a 45 deg fiberglass exhaust elbow. Don't know if that would be enough to make the rest up with rubber exhaust hose back to the exhaust tips.
John

You could be right Tim a corrugated hose just might make it. I'll tell you one thing I learned recently,wrestling with a HM manifold seems 10 times easier now than a cast iron PCM. The aluminum ones are a one person job. I have read the comments about you guy's changing them,it just didn't sink in how difficult it really is. I ended up doing it myself but it was time consuming. If it was me I would mount and align the motor first then mount up the exhaust when the time comes John no sense trying to move the engine around with the hoses fighting you too.

That is a beautiful Vette, but is that louvered hood original?

It's a gorgeous car. I'd be afraid to drive it.

They said just heat and lube just like anyone would do. The best part is it only cost about what a really nice dinner out with the wife would have. Jan really felt for me when I broke it, she is such a sweetie!
I am really considering having stainless fabbed up for the exhaust by the place that pulled the finger. It would be really nice to easily slip the exhaust on and there would be no fears of the hose causing a restriction from a partial collapse from being bent too drastically. I have the glass rear seat so it is hidden from view and the riser connection isn't original on anyones as far as I know, since the molded rubber elbows are only a memory. I was very surprised that the guy from either Trident or Gates was familiar with the original system. Maybe I'm not the first one to call about it. The mess that came off was just that, but I found that both hoses had collapsed internally to the point where I believe they were restricting the flow, but there were so many things wrong with the set up. It had Osco manifolds (2.5") and the smaller hoses had just been stuffed into the 3" original hoses.

Tim, It's no secret that I am a novice. This is my first inboard. I have never worked with any exhaust hose. Your dual exhaust conversion looks great and I thought I would like one similarly constructed. I don't expect the value of the boat to increase significantly due to any of the work I am doing. If you and Pete think corrugated is the way to go because it is a better solution than stainless I believe you. I don't mind throwing money at this project, but I don't want to throw it away on something that won't work properly.
This corrugated hose has the tightest bend radius of any I have found. It appears that it may work with an 11" radius, but the bottom bend would be tight.

I'm sure it is good stuff but certainly not a low budget item at around $84 / ' plus shipping.

TRBenj wrote: In that case, forget it.

I have a feeling John can afford the higher cost.

John,
If not, then Tim certainly has the solution.

That's a neat looking installation Bruce. You understand the wrestling match I'll be dealing with if you looked at the photo of my riser outlets. Yours are nearly straight runs. Gary has a neat looking installation with SS pipe for the tight radius lower bend, but his removable floor panel is notched and mine is not. I prefer a minimum of connections. The shop I would use to make the exhaust system does really nice work. I not sure why it's not a good solution, but that seems to be the consensus.
Pete, you overestimate my resources. I'm doing this on the gas money I saved driving my 35MPG Saturn Ion for the last 190,000 miles, and that is about $18,000 over a car that gets 18MPG.
Roman Performance fabrication

I would love to host a Chicago Beers meeting here but it will be hard to do before February. It doesn't have to be a "hands on" meeting unless you want to get your hands on something from the grill. I do barbecue meetings for my car club here now and then.
Maybe I'm not being clear about what I would like to do with the exhaust system. My somewhat demented mind envisions a stainless steel one piece 3" pipe for the whole run from the risers to the tips, connected only by a hump hose at the riser and one at the SS exhaust tips for vibration resistance. I believe it would be nice to incorporate a piece of flat stock welded to the bottom of the pipe just behind the radius nearest the risers to allow a block of wood or other material to be slipped in and screwed to the flat stock and resting on the hull so the weight of the water filled pipe will not be hanging from the hump hose. This design would allow the block to be removed, dropping the pipe a couple of inches to slip the hump hose connection on and off of the riser. It would also give a slight rearward pitch to assist in draining the pipe. The connections at the riser and tip would be the only connections in the one piece system. I can't imagine how you could make a simpler system or one with less restriction. This system would simplify an engine swap in the event I decide to go to "plan 9" and resurrect the spare engine in the future. I may "go rogue" with this plan.

Yea, well, uh, I won't be making the measurements or fabricating the system so there's that.The downward angle is only necessary to allow the pipe to drop several inches to easily get the hump hose on and off of the risers. Ant you have a good idea. A hose clamp could be used to attach a spacer to the pipe.

As far as tone and loudness goes, I don't think the SS tubes made much, if any difference on our boat.