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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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I'm sure most of us have done it, but it is a bit like using a matchbook cover instead of a feeler gauge and dwell meter for final tune. With your attention to detail I would think you would like a more precise setting for something as important as timing. |
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21113 |
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John gets it.
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Back in Pete's day gasoline was gasoline too. Now you don't know if it's left over winter blend mixed with afternoon blend or what
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peter1234
Grand Poobah Joined: February-03-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2756 |
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former skylark owner now a formula but I cant let this place go
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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Although it doesn't look like the original crab cap, I don't find the DUI distributor to be an eye sore. IMO it has a pretty clean look and doesn't require an external coil. The cap comes in black, blue, red, yellow, and clear to make it look similar to OEM and it is available for RR engines. |
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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Riley
Grand Poobah Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7946 |
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I don't think they look bad either, and they can always be swapped out for the original look.
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Deja vu, Must be icy up north |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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Hmmm, a YL with a tach drive and a clamp on crab cap, what does that fit? |
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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Riley
Grand Poobah Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7946 |
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427 FE
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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Gary, this this thing will get a lot of use with multiple drivers. I expect around 150 hours a year judging on the Supra use last year. The only adjustments are the points and the carb. Once set the carb requires little to no adjustment. I just need super reliable. One family member in particular is happiest at WOT, I feel compelled to post the little culprit's photo. She really prefers the old stuff. I am plannning on trying my rebuilt YL for now and see how it goes. With any luck Barney, the purple Supra, will remain in storage this year. |
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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You have seen one before, you probably just don't remember sensory overload! Mallory had a nice electronic conversion kit at one time called E Spark,I think the Accel system was the same,might want to see if it's still made. Edit: here it is - Mallory espark Quite extensive installation though,I seem to remember you needed to remove the points cam,so I chickened out because I did not want to disassemble it that far. Did you see if Advance Distributor will work on yours? |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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That is a beautiful thing Gary, always happy to see it. You have set the gold standard with that SS and I am tickled that you took me for a ride in it and let me drive it a few years back. Your distributor is different from the ones on my engines, Mine have no tach drive, brass vent screens (marine), brackets that support a screw down cap, and the ID tag is held on by one of the screws for the screw down cap bracket. The Mallory model # of mine is YL445KV, There are slight differences between the 69 and 70 model distributors I have, but it is mainly the method of retaining the gear drive and the advance weights. The Mallory Espark is NLA.
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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I picked up the windshield frame from the anodizing shop today, they did a great job on the bright dip, it looks just like the original finish. There are some imperfections in the metal, but they are minor. I chose the best frame parts I had and had CMP strip the anodizing and polish the aluminum to prepare them for the new anodizing. When polishing metal there is a thin line to walk between polishing out all the imperfections and polishing out the detail of the casting or extrusion. I find that CMP walks that line very well.
I put in some hours on the distributor tonight as well. I have chosen the best parts from the two and have it pretty much cleaned up for assembly, maybe tomorrow. Two of the plastic advance weight bushings are damaged, one broke when I picked it up and one had a very small chip out of it. I was able to salvage two, enough to make a good distributor. If anyone is interested in some of the other projects underway in my garage you can check out "John's Late Night Garage" on FB. There you will see some of the projects that have held me back on the Mustang progress. It's a closed group but I will approve you, my standards couldn't be lower. If you have one of these Mallory YL distributors I suggest you disassemble, inspect, and lubricate it from time to time. Mine looked good from the outside and the engine ran, but the advance plate was frozen on the shaft and both advance weights were frozen to their pivots. I have included a couple photos of the AIRCRAFT PAINT STRIPPER I used. It suffers from an identity crisis. The directions on the back get a bit weird. |
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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John,
From what I can see in the pictures, it looks like the distributor advance will clean up nicely and you will end up with a good working unit. The advance may not be perfect but the mechanicals never were plus as I mentioned, you're not out there racing the lakes of MW's!! The plastic bushings can be purchased from McMaster. Considering they broke, they are nylon. Nylon becomes brittle with age and especially when it dries out. The old trick to keep nylon from breaking is to soak it in water over night! Springs look good in that they are not stretched out. Keep the crab! |
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Riley
Grand Poobah Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7946 |
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The windshield frames came out great. They look original, much different than the ones we have that were redone. Putting the frame back on the glass is a scary job. We had a friend at a glass shop that helped us with ours. He had new felt, a padded work bench and a soft mallet to tap the frame on the glass.
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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What did you use as a gasket between the glass and the frame Bruce, felt? Mine had some sort of hard gasket material that could have been but had broke into pieces. I ended up using a cork/rubber material used in the glass industry,it was soaked in kerosene to install. Like you said not an easy job.
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Riley
Grand Poobah Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7946 |
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Gary, I don't remember exactly what it was, but the original stuff we had was too brittle and this guy had it as stock in his shop. He specializes in car windshields.
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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I am a bit apprehensive about assembling the windshield. I will use the original materials to set the glass, cork and rubber blend glass setting tape for the perimeter frame and the gray rubber U channel for the center support frame if I can find it. I may have to settle for black U channel since I have not sourced the gray yet. Not much is visible so I think it will be OK either way. . I will need to take a measurement to determine the correct thickness of the tape before ordering it.
Glass setting tapeToo thick and it will take a lot of mallet blows to install the perimeter frame and may cause too much stress on the glass (and me), too thin and it may be loose and succumb to the pounding it is sure to get out on the lakes. I have a lot of work to do before I get to the windshield. If I run into problems or lose my confidence I will take it to the body shop that does all my work. I have known these guys for years and they do fantastic work. I am sure one of their glass technicians will be able to help me. Addison Auto BodyFor now the plan is to concentrate on the power unit and move on to making a wiring harness next but that could change, there are a lot of projects on the burner at John's Late Night Garage. |
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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Pete, you nailed it. I found the bushings at McMaster. Who'd a thunk it? Guess I will pick up a couple. Mine will work but you can't beat new, wait, I guess that's what I'm trying to do, avoid the precision of a new unit for the asthetics of a crabby cap that dwells unseen in the dark beneath a heavy fiberglass box. Sometimes I really wonder why I'm doing this. |
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10664 |
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I'm not sure why you and Pete seem to think there's no precision in a spring and flyweight setup, you mentioned a DUI somewhere along the way, what do you think it's got for advance control? Yup, flyweights and springs. Plenty of others that use them too. Now,if you want a new one and a crab cap, look at the link below. The precision of new and the look of old NOS YL445 KV There it is, the same distributor and brand new but sitting on a shelf for a decade or 3.. It's on the internet so it must be true. You can even add it to your cart and it will let you continue without saying "out of stock" or anything like that. A smart person would call and verify first By the way, a couple of days ago I mentioned that I'd send you some good flyweights and bushings and an advance plate. The advance plate is newer than what you have and has adjustable advance stops but is an exact fit. My price is a little less than one penny with free shipping to boot just send a PM with your address. You should be able to easily make a good working backup distributor with this stuff and what you have. I might even be able to find a couple of used springs and tell you what the advance curve is if you use the springs and weights as a set. |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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Hi Ken, I really appreciate your input. I think the YL would be just fine in perfect condition, it's just that, even after addressing all the problems, it's not. I don't profess to speak for Pete, but I believe he is in favor of original equipment and would argue that the YL is fine. I appreciate his input in locating replacement bushings for the advance weights, they are one of the areas of most cocern. The bushings are very brittle to the point that I broke one carefully picking it up and I was only able to salvage the two I need. I believe the force created from running at high RPM would cause them to fracture giving compromised performance at best. The other area is the springs. They look pretty good now that I have cleaned them and the advance weights and plate were frozen in the retracted position so they had no force on them while the boat sat unused since about 2000. One advance plate is shot, it has wear marks where the advance weight studs ride and it would cause a detent in the primary advance position and suddenly advance to a proper setting when the rpm gets to some point to overcome the detent. The better plate has very slight detectable wear and i think it will function acceptably, but it has lost a bit of precision. The shaft bushings and the rest of it is in very nice shape. I am going with the electronic conversion, it can be changed back in very short order by just removing it and installing a points plate and setting the timing.
Thank you for your offer, I would like to have a spare distributor ready to go just in case. |
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10664 |
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Hi John
Got your PM,,parts will be headed your way KenO |
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swilliams
Senior Member Joined: June-26-2016 Location: Cincinnati,Ohio Status: Offline Points: 234 |
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John, I am very interested in this portion of your rebuild. Can you provide the page or part number for the bushings you found. I have a YL 520CV distributor that I will be rebuilding for my 260 Omc. My parts book does not even show a number for those bushings but a view of them. I also need to keep my fingers crossed on the "black" advance springs. Didn't mean to interrupt your posts. Thanks!
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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No problem, Steve. This thread is crazy so anything goes here. The advance weight pivot shafts on my YL are 1/4" and the pivot hole in the weights is 0.290 so that translates to about 19/64 and the thickness or the weights is .37 .The bushing im looking at is the one for a 1/4" shaft. The original does not have a flange but I believe there is stufficient clearance for a flange bushing, it may even ride smoother. If you look t my exploded photo you can see it originally was bushed with a thrust washer as a running surface. The listed bearing is slightly longer than the original (3/8 as opposed to 9/32 for the replacement) so the length may need to be cut down a bit. You can accomplish this on the flange end if you want it exact but I see a benefit of having it run on the nylon flange. Click on split flange bushing on the top left of the page that comes up. I can't link to the correct page. McMaster-Carr split sleeve nylon bushings |
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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Just a little coffee talk here this morning. This thread is mislabeled. It should be rants of a crazy boat hack or something like that. This is not a restoration since I am only afddressing the issues with the boat. It will have some chips and scratches and I don't intend to do a gel coat job on it. It is more like a refurbishment of a survivor. We will put our own signature damage on it through the years as we enjoy it.
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Your thread John reminds me as just a bunch of us sitting around talking about one of our favorite subjects.
I think this is the bushing here Click on the part number then on product detail and it comes up. |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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That's it Gary. I hope the administrators don't mind the ramblings with occasional useful information thrown in. |
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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swilliams
Senior Member Joined: June-26-2016 Location: Cincinnati,Ohio Status: Offline Points: 234 |
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Thanks, the flanged type makes sense. I'll get a few extra because I know I will screw at least one of them up!
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10664 |
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Hi John
Some more ramblings for the thread. Post office says the parts will be there Thursday. Here's a picture of what I sent If you use the weights, springs and advance plate you should end up with a mechanical advance curve of 500 0 plus initial 800 0 plus initial 1000 2 plus initial 1500 6 plus initial 2000 12 plus initial 2500 20 plus initial 2800 22 plus initial 3000 24 plus initial anything over 3000 the same 24 limited by the advance stops that are set for 24 degrees With 10 degrees initial you'd end up with 10 degrees at idle and 34 degrees at 3000 or above. The springs are a mystery as far as what color they once were, but they worked well with the weights. The points cam should work with your rotor and the points are some lightly used genuine Mallory that I think say in real small letters they were made south of the border where burrito's come from KenO |
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john b
Grand Poobah Joined: July-06-2011 Location: lake Sweeny Status: Offline Points: 3236 |
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1970 Mustang "Theseus' paradox"
If everyone else is doing it, you're too late! |
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