Not another Mustang restoration thread.

Just a little FYI for those with Jabsco pumps (11850-80). I ordered the minor service kit today from DEPCO (800-446-1656). It was $76.39 and includes the impeller, rotary seal, and gaskets. I spoke with Greg, who told me that the impeller and seal are quite common and are used in numerous other pump applications. There is no chance of them becoming obsolete anytime soon. The impeller alone is around $36. I was going to order a spare but decided against it sine they are so readily available. If everything goes according to plan I will order another kit and keep my rebuilt spare pump in reserve for that "oh s**t" moment.
I also contacted Redi-strip in Indianapolis. They will dip the block, heads, and intake manifold and hot tank it for $175.00 and get it back to me in about 7-10 days. That's a big difference from the $500.00 and 30 days they want here in Chicago. I guess I will have to combine it with a trip to visit my friends in Nashville Indiana. I will try to stop by N3 and take a look around while I am in Indy.
I wonder how many of us have old engines with severe scale in the water jacket. I cannot assembe this engine without having the block and heads cleaned of internal corrosion. This is the scale I shook out of the heads and I would feel safe to say I only got 10-20% out. With the heating/cooling cuycles and considering the small internal passages I believe it would only be a matter of time before scale restricted a critical passage such as the bypass hole that supplies cooling water to the exhaust manifolds whrn the thermostat is not yet open or the passages in the head gasket that control cooling water flow. The passage in the thermostat housing were obstructed when I removed it. I have since cleaned it with electrolysis and it is in the photo to show the size.
Also, does anyone have any advice concerning the tranz? Is there anything I should do while I have it on the bench besides draining it as completely as I can and refilling it? It seemed to work properly when it was on the boat with a clean neutral and no unusual mechanical noise, although it is hard to hear anything over a 10.5:1 engine running with open duals.

John,
With the velvet, I'd have a tendency to leave it alone. Since it's out of the boat, it will be easy to pull the suction strainer for a good fluid draining and refill. What the strainer looks like will give you an indication if anything is going on inside. The strainer is pretty course so take a good look at the fluid too.

John you can still see some overspray paint on my old pcv hose, trans hoses and wiring.

The engine is disassembled and everything is tagged and bagged. The block will be going to Redi-strip this week to be dipped and cleaned of the significant internal corrosion. I have spoken to a machinist at a new-to-me machine shop and I believe I am going with him subject to an in person meeting and discussion of the details.. I have given the heads a lot of thought and I just don't think I can put them back on. They are very corroded internally. By the time I have them dipped, faced, magnafluxed, stelllite seats and a fresh valve job I will be over the price of a fresh set of GT40Ps with that work already done. I checked the volume of the chambers by weight (it's what I had available in a pinch) and they came to 60cc +/_ 1cc. The GT40P heads are 59cc according to the information I can find so it shouldn't significantly affect the CR. The 10.5:1 cr must be achieved by the piston choice. The part number on the piston is standard 302 with the exception of a U suffix. I can't find any information about it. I am hoping to reuse the pistons after a light hone by the machine shop, I believe they will be within limits. We will see in about 3 weeks. Tranz is drained and the screen is clean (thanks Pete) so just a cleaning, paint and refill should do it there. Things are finally moving along. Hope to see everyone Thursday.

8122pbrainard wrote: John, Was there anything in the Velvet suction strainer? Good plan on the heads.

The strainer was clean. Thanks for the heads up on that. I know I will notice the four bars and straight plugs on the new heads, but I need a pinch of practical here. This thing is no Riva, it's just for family fun.

I've seen some 15" pitch props come on 302 powered boats, but never a 12.5" diameter on a 16' hull. How does the diameter actually measure? On that style prop, it would be pretty tight to the hull...

I assume you'll be putting a new acme or Oj on? I've found the federal/mw's make nice wall ornaments.

The diameter is a true 12.5 and the clearance is 1/2". There is some rash directly above the prop. It looks like someone may have used Marine Tex on it and did a nice smooth job, except they used Marine Tex. That's a job for another year-if ever. I will buy a new prop but it will be the last thing I do. I want to put a few hours on it before I make that decision.
Pete, the candle holder looks fantastic. You must have had that plated. The 12X13 is already a garage decoration-unpolished. Pier 290 (Gage Marine) on Lake Geneva has decorated their entry hallway with chandeliers made from various brass props and they used struts for wall sconses. It's beautiful. I go there every time I visit my friends on the lake.

I just called Tri-state Cylinder Head to order a fresh pair of GT40P heads and found that they no longer offer them. I guess the supply of old Explorers / Mountaineers is drying up. Back to the drawing board.

JoeinNY wrote: Talk to Clearwater cylinder head they are still around , it appears tristate has refocused their business efforts on selling new aluminum heads they are importing instead of rebuilding stock heads.

I talked to them at length. They sell Flo-Tek heads. Seems that except for some class of racing that specifies iron heads there is not much use for the GT40P any more. They get the castings and build the heads in their facility. They are a knock off of the Ford E303X heads that are very popular with the Mustang (car) crowd. They have a market for them in the marine community too.

John I sent you a PM

John,
What happened? Is it bad enough that Jan will need to take over the build?

Pumpy thing all cleaned up and ready to go.

8122pbrainard wrote: John, Yes, you do have a problem! I certainly hope you are simply prepping for paint to keep things original.

They used nice components. I like Ford blue but it is going to be hard to see them with a coat of paint. Either way the components need to be cleaned, inspected, and rebuilt where necessary. I found remnants of the lining of an old raw water hose in the Trans cooler. It would have been foolish to repair the fuel system, throw an impeller and hoses on, and expect it to be trouble free. It is just too old for that. Way to much plaque in the arteries.

They can always be painted.

Already done, Pete. We have a copper line going to a marine carb. It originally had an auto carb when we got it. The person that removed the YH's was a few owners ago. He actually contacted me when seeing the boat on CCF. He did the conversion, including cutting the automotive intake so it would utilize all the Interceptor parts, including the valley pan. I hope to get back on this boat soon. The PO we got the boat from rebuilt the engine and polished out the copper and brass, as well as chromed the pulleys.