Not another Mustang restoration thread.

Give it just a little bit of pitch on final trimming... will send the water to the bilge.

C_Heath wrote: good job staying motivated since 2011. I wouldn't be able to at all.

Clearly you jest.

Milled fibers are stronger but cabosil makes for a much smoother, creamy consistency. I’d use a bit of each.

Micro balloons is low strength and better for fairing (when sanding it off will be easier).

Thanks for the intake info Tim.
A beautiful day today. Did a little work
What should I thicken the epoxy with when I bond the stringers down, hopefully tomorrow? Cabosil? Milled fibers? Microbaloons? I would guess Cabosil based on blue sky. Anyone?
I used this Craftsman sabre saw to work on a Glen-L boat when I was about 10yoa. Different day, same hand, but with wrinkles. The arrow of time is unrelenting.
Today's work, shaping the secondaries..
I hope all of you here and your family are well.

Can anyone tell me the clearance between the spark arrestor and the engine cover on a mustang 302 with a flat top engine cover? I really like the Holman Moody 4V aluminum intake manifold but it looks slightly higher than the original. Although not original, I think it would look nice on the engine. Reluctant to spend the $$ to find it doesn't fit.
Holman Moody 4V intake manifold

KENO wrote: It's cordless, variable speed and takes lots of different attachments. I think she likes it, she's always smiling

Best Christmas gift I ever got my wife! Now I can spend more time in the garage with my toys and she still smiles.   

TRBenj wrote: If the wood on the back of the panel is rotten I’d be going after it with a flap disc on an angle grinder.

Or just use the tool it's like skinning an animal,less mess as well. I originally bought this tool to remove carpet- that literally was like skinning

You can get the Rockwell version for $79. Has some decent weight to it for the price. Weight seems to be the key to keeping it stable.

What is that thing?

Backing the entire panel with some Coosa is a good idea. I’m sure CC only backed the part of the panel that would get stepped on with the back seat in place. I would put the panel face down on a flat surface and add some weight when bonding- might get that bow out. The patina on the floor pan will not hurt it’s appeal.

I would take a chance on the transmission also.

AHHHahahaha

The main stringers are pretty much done, on to shaping the secondaries. They are 100.75" The coosa is 96". I believe the length was only important to pick up the last crossmember for a seat anchor point, which they missed from the factory. I'll add on a bit if I feel the need once they're in.
I am laying out the pieces for fitment. The removable panel has 1/4" plywood backing over about 1/2 of the bottom. The stringers are shaped to allow it to be the same height as the pan without a floor and I think that is the reason for the skinny backing. It has a 1/4" bow in the center. I think the easy way to do this is to chisel the plywood off of the removable pieve of the fiberglass pan and bond it to 3/4 coosa all the way to the tail for rigidity. I am apprehensive. I would hate to do damage and need to call the Seadek guy. The pan is worn at the chafing points but I still like it. This Mustang will be a "driver" when it's done, but I have a lot of love for it.
I debate sending the Velvet Drive out for a freshen up. It hasn't been used in 20 years. I started the boat when I got it about 9 years ago and it shifted properly on the trailer and had a clean neutra.I I lean toward dropping it in and rolling the dice. At least it's easy to R&R if it has an issue, but I would probably lose weeks looking for a rebuild
.

Yes John, it is a good escape for all of us. It is a small sense of normalcy in this time of unknown and craziness. So continue to work, continue to post and of course, wash your hands - HA!

John,
Continue on and stay safe.

I fear that posting my progress here, at this time, is insensitive. I am torn between the need for escape from our present reality, and our hope for the future, and there are good times ahead for the vast majority who will survive and write this into history, hopefully drawing on this experience.
I hope everyone here is safe, as I wish for the rest of the world. We are all truly lucky, whether it is for the incredible good fortune and excess of owning and enjoying a classic ski boat, or the incredible good fortune of owning a computer with internet access, a roof over our heads, enough food to eat, and a dream.
I will continue to work on my project as a distraction, I feel it's necessary for me to have a refuge, but I intend to temper my posts out of respect to those who are facing times far more difficult than mine, I am unsure if my posts are construed as an escape, or interpreted as a sign of opulence.
I have made several small donations within my budget to my local food bank to help those facing hunger in my area. I encourage anyone who can to donate to your favorite charity during this difficult time to do so.
Let us all pull together for life as we do for our hobby.
Love!
John Beeman

8122pbrainard wrote: [QUOTE=Duane,John plans on using shims for elevation just like the original.

Pete, That's why I could not see it. You know how I despise originality.   

edit,   I still like cradles