1984 2001 rebuild. Pete, go away.

Plus 1 on the "Trex" adhesion and strength. Go for it but sorry you're on your own. Think about this, why are adhesive containers made of polyethylene?

Jllogan wrote: It really bends, but that is under 75 mph.

That would not affect almost all of us except Joe

Gary....I thought it might be PVC as well, but I read a Trex rep's web post that indicated bag material. PVC may make more sense since it has much better UV stability, but, either way....low end materials. Bags are probably much more plentiful from a supply stanpoint.

Post I read....


Trex is one of the largest plastic bag recyclers in the U.S.
3.1 billion recycled grocery bags were collected for use to manufacture Trex products in 2010.

I thought it said pvc somewhere on it's web site Dave but now can't find it,who am I to doubt a plastics guy

Here is one thing to think about it's in their faq section-
Q: Why isn't Trex® structural?

A: Trex has made a market decision to offer a product that will provide the customer with a superior walking surface, guardrail system, fencing and trim.

Might be worth it to email them and see what they think,it is a pvc product not sure an epoxy would stick.

Max - I would be concerned about the strenght of trex.    I have built a deck or two out of it, and it requires structure every 16-24 inches to not sag with heat/ and be properly supported. I realize what you are trying to do, but would caution you that after you do your sticky test with Joe, you may want to look into actual breaking strengths and such. Also, Trex will not provide you with much rigidity, so that may be an issue with causing the hull to flex and cracking gel?   a 15' stick of 2x6 trex will touch the ground on both ends when you put the middle on a 6' ladder.   (looks like a rainbow)   I am interested to hear the results though... I am all for making the boat practical, just would hate for something to go wrong in the process.

I am about 10 miles of rt 90 at the weeds port exit. I have some Coosa straps and more resins and glass supplies around than I care to admit so just a little trex would do it.   If you are goin to be close you should drop by... I have been where you are going a time or two

The intro post I made was a bit rushed, its the week before finals so I've been a bit burnt out. So here are the parts that I forgot to mention.

Goals are in this order,

Complete the floors over winter break. Re-carpet with black carpet. Drop in a replacement engine, which I am very close to locating. Buff out the hull, gel is in great condition, just needs to be brightened up. Install audio, which will consist of two 10" subs in the nose of the boat (already have), 4 6.5's on the sides and 2 6.5's on the tower which I already have. Im running without a deck, just a line in for an ipod straight to the amp. I bought an atlantic tower, which im taking a 12" section out of the middle to narrow it up to fit the hull, then having a buddy TIG it back in place for me.

Once Im done with all of that, it should be spring, and I should be broke.

Trex adhesion test. http://www.westsystem.com/ss/gluing-plastic-dimensional-lumber/

Its always a fun project. The sea cast will work ok although heavy and expensive, but trex.. as in plastic decking trex? It wont stick to nothing with standard glass resins. You could score the heck out of it and attach it to floor with a high end adhesive but it is not the cheapest stuff out there, not real stable and not real light or strong. I dont see it adding to the strength of the hull any just... maybe being able to hold up the floor? If you are not planning to glass in the floor consider using pressure treated.. it will last longer, if you are going to cpes and glass then ignore that .   

OK guys, Im redoing my 84 2001 this winter and I figured I would start documenting it here. First things, I am not looking to restore this boat to factory specs. Im not replacing every manufactures decal, the exact factory carpet, or finding the forest that the wood came from for the original stringers. The objective of this build is to have a boat that will be dead reliable and slightly more modern. If you are looking for a factory restore this is not the post for you. If you appreciate the benefits of modern materials and slightly more modern asthetics then you may find this interesting.

TL, DR,: Im redoing my boat this winter, not to original specs.

I first bought the boat over the summer, it "needed some engine work", which in northern Pennsylvania means "bad engine". I pulled it out and its dissasembled in my friends garage, Im currently looking for a new one. The floors were completely de-laminated the entire observer side of the hull, and partialy de-laminated along the drivers side. I tore out the floor, which Im not going to bother posting pictures of because theres hundreds of pictures and write ups on here of how to do it. The plan right now for stringers is, seacast main stringers, trex secondaries with ribs coming off those, and 5/8 plywood decking attatched with stainless hardware. I have put a lot of time and thought into this route V.S. the traditional douglas fir/foam floor method and I feel that this will provide a more solid floor and will last forever. Price wise it will be around the same as doing wood and a glass floor. More money for the sea cast, but less money for the floor its self.

This is all the time I have now, I have class right now but I'll try to post some pictures of the boat tonight.

Max