Rough 1993 Ski soft floor |
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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Posted: October-31-2011 at 12:52am |
OK. Update time for anybody following my wet foam saga. I have dug out the wet foam in the section that was under the crack in my floor. I took some photos.
This is looking forward in the hole. This foam is dry. I've dug in for a few more inches and it's all dry. This is looking aft. It's a long ways back there. I can't reach it with my hand, even when my shoulder is all the way down in the hole. I had to dig at it with a nail claw and a long screwdriver. It was really slow going. I was a little surprised tonight to pull the lid off my shop vac and see that I filled it up along with the stuff I pulled out by hand and put in this 5-gallon bucket. Next, I gotta figure out where to buy foam and then teach myself fiberglass repair. Or, go look for a sale on pool noodles? |
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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storm34
Grand Poobah Joined: November-03-2008 Location: Dexter Iowa Status: Offline Points: 4492 |
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Thats a good looking trailer for under 500 bucks! Nice find!
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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I know this has little to do with my wet foam (still digging - had not much spare time lately so progress is slow), but I found a trailer for my boat. Got a great deal (less than $500) I'm excited to get this step behind me. Going to re-carpet the bunks before I slide it under my boat. It's a little rusty here and there, but solid, and will work for the 1 mile trek from my house to the boat launch.
Kevin |
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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Eric, how did you get the floor out of your '95? I'd LOVE to see a picture or twenty...
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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eric lavine
Grand Poobah Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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i could possibly snap some pics of that 95 hull I have, the floor is out along with the foam, the complete structure is there, i really dont know if this is the correct structure or not since it was a display boat and has never been in the water.
i also have a 92 hull with a the foam out and there is a piece still up front and you can see the waterline about 6 inches up in the foam, this boat too was soaked and the stringers were completely rotted. im getting ready to cut that one up, I need the forward deck, the rest will get the sawzall....I really was thinking of using the front hull as a man door canopy |
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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uk1979
Platinum Member Joined: June-13-2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1411 |
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I throw this one out here, this may work if you drill vent holes all over the floor then insert straw type tubes down through the foam which have holes drill up the sides then roll over the hull with an RF gun which would vaporize the moisture, would like to give it a go to see what happens, the main down side I can see is if there is moisture under the gel it will blister it as well, the US one I found will go 2’1/2,in deep on their big one so may work if you used it on the floor side, think it’s time for more meds now
RF Gun |
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Lets have a go
56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
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bkhallpass
Grand Poobah Joined: March-29-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4723 |
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I would think the thick portions you are seeing are the top of the fiberglass "rib structure" in the boat. Someone posted the drawing. It's more like a corregated structure than the traditional ribs we see in the wood boats. Just my guess. BKH
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Livin' the Dream
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21113 |
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Kevin, I think many of us would be very interested in seeing what the stringers and floor look like in a 1993+ boat! Unfortunately, thats been something that just hasnt been shared yet- even during the documented build of the Crush. You may be on your own, if you decide to tear into it, unfortunately. If I had to guess though, I dont think youre looking at anything overly complicated. You may want to study some of the older stringer rebuild threads and see how the wooden-stringer boats were built from the factory. I would bet that the heavier build up youre seeing in the floor in that area is meant to specifically address the mounting of the seats and lend strength to the area that spans over the bilge. Basically, its doing the same job that the 3/4" wood floor section between the motorbox and battery box did. My guess is that the rest of the floor will be similar to the older boats (1/8" or so thick). I would say that if you wanted to replace all of the foam, you could cut the floor out and either reuse this section when rebuilding it, or put a piece of coosa in this section. The rest could be the original glass over foam. Just a guess! |
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Keeganino
Grand Poobah Joined: October-27-2009 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 2063 |
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I have been following this thread and no doubt the floor layup is different to the one I rebuilt. The floor in my Skier varied in thickness from very thick to barely being thick enough with no rhyme or reason other than inconsistency. Once a cut was made all the way around the perimeter of the floor the entire piece would pop out using a pry bar. It may not be that easy with the new composite system, I don't know. If the floor is bonded to the tops of the stringers you would probably have to cut the floor right up to the edges of the stringers, remove that piece of floor, and then grind the top of the floor on top of the stringer down to the desired height.
I understand your hesitation to go hacking away further, especially since you are taking one for the team digging into a post 92, but the time it would take to remove all the foam and floor will be less than what you have spent so far extracting foam by hand through a small opening in the floor. Keep in mind fiberglass is a really easy medium to work with with regards to putting the floor back in. I spent a couple of weeks digging into the stringers with screwdrivers and after I found that everything was wet, and convinced myself I could tackle the project, removed the floor and all the foam in 2 evenings. At the very minimum I would remove the floor over the entire cavity you believe to be wet and get after it. Forget the little holes. These may be of little help in your application but shows the concept. Before After cutting perimeter with angle grinder and removing floor |
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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger
1973 Skier |
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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Keegan,
Have you seen my posts about the bizarre nature of my floor? It's not a simple flat layer of fiberglass. What is the "varying thickness" of my floor? I'm still waiting for somebody to tell me what all the ribs and thick (about 1/4") and thin (about 1/16") areas in my floor are about. Can I just cut through all this stuff? I'm reluctant to do so because replicating the complex arrangement of ribs and built-up areas would be very hard. I'm still working to get out all the wet foam, I just can't find a way to cut huge holes in my complex (post-1992) floor to rip all the foam up easily. Two nights ago I gave up on the tools and was reaching in and pulling it out with my bare hands. I would LOVE to go look at floors being installed in the Nautique factory to see how it is done (assuming today's boats have a complex floor similar to mine). Any helpful thoughts would be sincerely appreciated. Kevin |
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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BuffaloBFN
Grand Poobah Joined: June-24-2007 Location: Gainesville,GA Status: Offline Points: 6094 |
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Granted you've done it once, right? |
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Keeganino
Grand Poobah Joined: October-27-2009 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 2063 |
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I used to work for a company that mitigated water damage. They would set up fans and dehumidifiers in the affected areas for up to a week. Daily moisture checks measured progress and there was a target moisture level that had to be achieved before we could sign off on a job. Even with good air flow and dehumidifiers I am not sure that you could dry out wet foam. It would get some of the water out for sure but that foam really locks the moisture deep inside.
It is starting to sound like once you are in there it is probably just as easy to remove all the old foam, dry the structure, refoam and reglass. Does not take that long to demo the floor and foam. |
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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger
1973 Skier |
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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Eric, you have done that before? Do you think that would suck the water out of the foam in my boat? How long would it take to dry everything out?
Kevin |
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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eric lavine
Grand Poobah Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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to dry em up, I use a commercial de-humidifier with the boat cover on or a tarp, a normal de-humidifier works well also
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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Wow. That's an interesting idea. I don't think you'd ever get all the water doing that, and it might take a really long time since the water essentially leeches very slowly in the foam. Still, it might be worth a try just to see what happens.
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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uk1979
Platinum Member Joined: June-13-2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1411 |
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I wonder if you where to rig up a shop vac to the hole seal all around the pipe and switch on for a while it would draw the moisture out the foam into the void which can then be soaked up with rags.
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Lets have a go
56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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I finally got a chance to dig into my foam a little more tonight. It's kind of weird and I'm looking for more thoughts from the experts here. The foam is wet, but not soaked. Is ANY wet foam bad? I'm beginning to wonder if this is worth the effort. The foam is still rigid and is quite hard to dig out because I'm working in such a small area.
The floor in my boat appears to be quite thick in many places. There are 3" disks (for lack of a better word) where the floor is thin. The problem is that there is no way I could dig out all the foam with a tiny three-inch hole as my access point. Do I need to go after ALL the water? If the foam is still rigid, but still wet, is that a real problem? |
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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Dreaming
Platinum Member Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
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Kevin - check this post....might be something for you if you could make the distance work
Slipping transmission thread |
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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A gardening spade sounds like a really good idea! Thanks for that.
This crack was the only area where there was an open wound in the floor. The other holes we all there only for screws, and they had screws in them so I am assuming that most of those didn't let water in. |
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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AussieNorts
Groupie Joined: March-10-2007 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 82 |
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Kevin,
I would not worry too much about the other soft spots, it can seem soft, but what i noticed was that some of those areas in my boat is where the floor was not glued to stringer anymore. I used a small gardening spade about 4inch wide, it seemed to work well, if you have no delam of glass under there i would dig aft and forward till you hit a crossmember and if still no delam, pour the foam and stitch it up. |
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Correct craft.....is there any other boat?
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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Any thoughts about what I should do next? I'm thinking of trying to chip out as much foam as I can from here going aft and see if the floor gets "thin" again at some point. I will keep plugging away going forward as well and hope to find only dry foam or the bow of my boat at some point.
The hard part is that I don't know where else I should dig now. I have other spots where the floor flexes. Should I cut in there and see what I find or ignore it? By the way, once I scrape away the foam the glass looks good. It is glass after all, so it can say wet forever with no ill effects. Just to be clear, my main concern is that I don't know if I should venture into this floor too much with all these ridges and thick areas. What if that thick area is honeycomb or something like that? I'd hate to slice into that. I also created a picture with more explanation of what you are looking at. |
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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For the curious, the nose (for lack of a better term) of the ICS is plainly seen here:
This is a view of the thick area which is under my knees in the photo above. And yes, this area doesn't flex at all. It might be reinforcement for seats, but seems a little aft for that. It would more likely be where you place your feet. As far back as I have felt thus far the floor stays thick. If the "regular" floor (what I have cut out) is about 1/16" thick or so, I'd say that the built-up area is about 1/4" thick. So it is quite significant. Steve from Australia - what do you use to dig out foam? It is not easy to get out of there. Some of the foam is what I'd call dry, but much of it is still wet too. I have poked a screwdriver into the foam going aft and it sunk to the handle, so I have a ways aft to go before I get to a brace that goes side to side. Some more shots: A view to the side (inside towards the middle): |
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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Here is the hole I have cut in my boat floor in search of wet foam under the crack that had been created by the seat frame.
I poked my camera down in the cut out. This is what the view looks like looking forward towards the bow. The "ridge" on the right (looks like it is in the center in this photo) is attached to the floor. It is sort of an upside-down U, although I can't get to the other side of the U because of the frame (wall on the right). This is looking aft. You can see the ridge here on the left. You'll also see on the right the front end of a composite stringer. More on that in a second. You can also see a ridge right in front of you that runs side to side, and there is a thick section of floor just aft of that ridge. |
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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Let me see if I can get my camera down there to take some pictures. It will be hard, but I think I can figure out a way to do it.
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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lewy2001
Grand Poobah Joined: March-19-2008 Location: NSW Australia Status: Offline Points: 2234 |
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Kevin this picture from the 97 brochure which shows the jig holding the stringers in place gives you a bit of an idea what is below the floor. Aussie also found some cross bracing between the stringers. Get some pictures while you have the foam out.
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If you're going through hell, keep going
89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
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JoeinNY
Grand Poobah Joined: October-19-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5693 |
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Pictures please.... I would exPect some structure for the seats to attach to under there, the pre 93 boats had plywood to screw into up front.
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AussieNorts
Groupie Joined: March-10-2007 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 82 |
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Kevin,
That is a new one for me, from what i saw underneath mine the floor looked flat. Just layed on top of the stringers, however i did not dig as aft as you. |
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Correct craft.....is there any other boat?
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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OK. New question:
Why isn't my floor flat underneath? This was not something I expected. As I dug into my little hole (it is about 6" wide and a foot long now) I discovered that my floor has channels, if you will, and thicker areas all over the place up front. I thought the floor was just a thin layer of glass laid flat over the stringers. It is not. The channels run side to side and fore-aft. Essentially it is a "T" shaped structure were the top of the T is my floor. Is this COMPLETELY different than a pre-1993 boat? |
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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Luchog
Grand Poobah Joined: April-17-2007 Location: Argentina Status: Offline Points: 2135 |
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you could laminate the floor over a glass like hassbeen showed on his build and then attach it to the boat.
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JoeinNY
Grand Poobah Joined: October-19-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5693 |
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Dude you are going to foam your boat.. and then fiberglass over the foam. The foam/no foam debate has nothing to do with a 93 plus boat. you have a small repair to do pull out what is wet, foam over it, level the foam, and fiberglass over it.
To make that boat no foam you would remove all foam and then need to put down a deck of some sort.. what would you use.. plywood.. no coosa.. it would be rediculously expensive and a ton more effort to get you what you have now which is an all composite boat. |
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