Steering cable replacement on a 95 SN - do it!

Hey everybody, Mark here. For those of you who are debating your ability to change the steering cable on your 95 Nautique (or other years as well), I recommend you do it. It is simple! If you do not mind getting a little dirty and getting down on your belly or back this is a must do job. My 95 Nautique that I just bought back in November was so hard to steer it took two hands to wrestle it. I can now turn it with one finger. Do you know how it feels to have bald tires on your car, and when you finally get those new tires you are amazed at how easy it is to drive and curse yourself for not getting them earlier? Same thing with the steering cable.

First, talk to the good folks at www.Nautiqueparts.com in White Lake, NC. I came very close to ordering the $277.00 OEM steering cable which is 19-1/2ft. long, but decided to call them for advice. They told me the standard, 20ft. teleflex cable works just fine and it was much less- just a little over $180.00 including shipping and taxes, after the planetnautique discount (pnd). Then, proceed as follows:

1. Remove engine cover, back seat, rear floor panel, and the footrest underneath the steering wheel. My footrest had a speaker in it that required disconnecting - just two wires.
2. Remove the four bolts holding the cable to the steering box, underneath the dash.
3. Remove the one bolt holding the steering cable to the rudder arm.
4. Remove the steering cable from the pipe that secures the cable at the stern. I had to use a pipe wrench to hold the pipe while I unscrewed the nut with an adjustable wrench. Now the cable should be free, but check to see if it is tied down anywhere.
5. Tie a small rope to the hole in the rudder end of the cable. I used clothesline rope. Tape over the not with ducktape to secure.
6. Start pulling the cable out from under the dash. It should be easy to pull out but if you meet resistance check to make sure it is not tangled in something like the bilge wires. You will have to use a little muscle once you get to the end and are pulling the last bit of cable through the hole underneath the dash. Observe how you will work the new one back into the hole and down through the floor of the boat.
7. Once out, remove the rope and tie it to the rudder end of the new cable. This is where you will need someone to help you.
8. Start feeding the cable through, while the other person gently pulls on the rope from the stern area. To me this was the hardest part, but with patience and strong abdominal muscles you can do it! Continue feeding and have your helper make sure you are not getting tangled with those bilge wires again.
9. Put new cable through the pipe at the stern and reconnect the end of the cable to the rudder arm. Make sure you tighten this securely for safety. Tighten the nut on the rudder end of the cable to the pipe using your pipe wrench and adjustable wrench again.
10. Position and reattach the cable to the steering box, making sure the teeth line up and mesh properly. As far as alignment, I simply left the rudder straight and the steering wheel straight and reattached everything just as it came out. You can work with this if not aligned properly.
11. Turn wheel and have your helper make sure you still get full range left to right on your rudder. (Try not to smile when you first turn it!).
12. Replace everything in #1 above.

I'm sure many of you have better ideas or advice on this and I would love to hear it, since I am a "newbie" (that can't wait to shed that label). Again, you will be amazed at the difference. I had my 10-year old son helping me as well as my father, and it was a great Saturday morning project. So do it - you will love it!

Thanks Keith for a great website and resource.
Mark,
Charlotte, NC

Great write up Mark. I had to go through this process with our 96 SNOB. I fought with wine for a while and finally learned a trick to getting the new cable started or the old one out-Thanks to Jody Seal.

Make sure to check for zip ties holding the cable up in the bilge. Mark or remember them so you can replace them when you are done.

dillon5 wrote: 8. Start feeding the cable through, while the other person gently pulls on the rope from the stern area. To me this was the hardest part, but with patience and strong abdominal muscles you can do it! Continue feeding and have your helper make sure you are not getting tangled with those bilge wires again.

Remove the black blower hose under the dash (should be three of four phillips screws) and reach your arm down to follow the guide line. This will give you an idea of cables path as it goes into the bilge. You can now feed the cable through with your hand essentially under the floor. Once you have the first 2 feet of the cable through it should pull pretty easy, just keep and eye on the bilge wires.

storm34 wrote: I fought with wine for a while and finally learned a trick to getting the new cable started or the old one out-Thanks to Jody Seal.

Yea your not supposed to fight it just accept it.Or just drink beer instead.
Seriously I can't believe how many of these newer boats need cables,they must not be made the same as the old ones.

Gary S wrote: storm34 wrote: I fought with wine for a while and finally learned a trick to getting the new cable started or the old one out-Thanks to Jody Seal. Yea your not supposed to fight it just accept it.Or just drink beer instead. Seriously I can't believe how many of these newer boats need cables,they must not be made the same as the old ones.

Gary you beat me too it The 73 got a new steering cable in 2004 which is a pretty good run. Does sound like the new ones break sooner.

Keeganino wrote: Gary S wrote: Seriously I can't believe how many of these newer boats need cables,they must not be made the same as the old ones. Gary you beat me too it The 73 got a new steering cable in 2004 which is a pretty good run. Does sound like the new ones break sooner.

I too have to agree and am always amazed at the cable failure rate. The steering systems in my 64 and 77 are still going great!! I know plenty of 60's and 70's boats with original systems that are still great. CC must have switched to the cheap ones!!!

Jody,
When posting my above comments, you came to mind and I wondered what you'd have to say!

So, as I read your responce, I clearly get the idea that all ski boat steering systems are not meant for higher hours and wet bilges and should be "trailer queens" or on a lift all the time!

60's and 70's boats aren't high hours?

Better quality steering systems are out there but of course do cost more.

60's and 70's boats if they have lasted till now with out special restoring yes are predomitly low hour boats. We had a 82 2001 that we put about 400 hours a year on for about three years, after two years we had to install a new steering cable and exhaust manifolds, that cable lasted the next six years because we got a MasterCraft and did not utilize the Nautique for more than about 20-30 hours a year. We sold that boat in 89 and to this day it still has the second cable in it But again it only gets 10-20 hours a year and has now become a trailer queen and the guy that owns it has called of course looking for a cable for that boat.
About 30% of the time other problems with in the steering system are masking what the owners deem to be cable problems most of these issues are dry rudder port and in some cases grawdu in the stabilizer tube. Some with the early Teleflex Rack and pinion can have the rubber boot over the tilt mechinisim not seated correctly and bind between the wheel hub and the tilt unit, one min fix!
I have never seen a cable that worked correctly after 700 hours of use they either have to much play in them or are stiff. I think for safety sake for your passangers and fellow boaters The steering cable is an Item that needs to be replaced after 500-700 hours or excessive time in years (what that number is I dont know but 10 years IMHO is to much) anyway their is no way to take the sealed unit apart and inspect it.
Pete You might want to leave the floating furniture in the barn get your trailer queen ski boat out on the water quit pulling tubes go pull real skiers, barefooter's and maybe even load up the phat sac's and pull boarders and surfers for 400 hours or more this summer and come back and tell us what you had to repair or replace. we can compare repair lists against my 500 plus that we will put on our new 200.

It's got to have something to do with the cables they make these days as I know that it is not unusual for a 1-3 year old Malibus to need a cable. I used to see people post about it often on themalibucrew. I think putting it away clean helps prolong the life.

Hey Mark,

I think were on the same page, so far here is my list

-replaced carb, fuel pump, plugs, wires, when purchased. boat sat for three years without being in water and carb was all fouled up. put new one on and runs perfect
-replaced steering cable
-changed fluids and winterized myself
-just built a ski/wakeboard rack for fly-high pole last night, I will try to post pictures later, turned out pretty sweet
-purchased new 1442 acme prop, cant wait to see the difference from old to new

to-do list
-put new wood nob on shift lever
-install new depth finder
-going to use herculiner roll on liner on the keel to protect
-reupholster back 3 seats, they have some cracks
-install new head unit for stereo, need one to play ipod

I think thats about it for now, nothing to major, just some little things to do. good luck with your projects

Mark

Everybody,
One of my questions was never answered - do you think I need to put the four small SS washers between the pinion and the steering rack?
Thanks,
Mark

All old cables are due to break when put under stress. It is best to replace if you are worried but you can get many more years of service out of them if you shut it down during a turn and always turn to the left.

dwcar wrote: All old cables are due to break when put under stress. It is best to replace if you are worried but you can get many more years of service out of them if you shut it down during a turn and always turn to the left.

Nascar

Gotta think they handled the older ones differently. The 85 still sports its original and the 86 did until two years ago. 86 had about 1500 hours on the cable.

I think they figured out they don't sell many cables if they last 30+ years. I assume the white gunk inside has a specific useful life in time and it gums up to produce a tight cable.

19.5 (Technically)