Woke up 84 - Purrrs like a kitten!

Try a breaker bar and socket on the front end of the engine. You won't have to worry about the pylon in the way besides, I'd worry about using a impact. You don't want to break something!!

The starter drive stuck because the engine is stuck. The drive usually disengages when the engine fires up over running the ring gear on the flywheel.

Yes, you can only put so much pressure on the front end.

What's the condition of the battery? Starting or deep cycle?

On one occasion when I was afraid of putting too much pressure on the breaker bar, I ended up using a hole saw and drilling a hole in the bell housing right over the ring gear. Then very carfully using a large screwdriver engaged into the ring gear teeth would "walk" the engine backwards slightly then bump it with the starter. I did this maybe 5 or 6 times and broke it loose. Then I used a "cap plug" to close up the hole in the bell housing.

Does anyone know if there is anything else that I should be doing besides soaking the cyls.?
Is there anything else that might be frzen up?

The oil on the dipstick is clean, right? If so, you could pull the distributer and prime the oil system. That might help a little. It would at least get oil on most places that are about to turn.

I used the meathod Pete mentioned, but I was able to use the crank bolt to turn it back; and it only needs to move a bit for the starter to get a new swing. That little bit can also strip the crank bolt and the starter won't like it either, so easy does it.

Eric,
That sounds interesting. Are you saying go plug hole to plug hole with an air hose @ 150psi? (What am I keeping fingers away from?)

Boy am I hoping to keep away from drilling 1" hole in the engine!

You'll need one of these to screw into one of the plug holes and then put the compressed air to it. Since the engine is locked up, it will take some trial and error to find a clyinder/piston on the compression stroke. You'll know right away because if it's not on compression, the air will just blow by a open valve.

Good suggestion Eric!! You deal with more lock ups than I do!!

8122pbrainard wrote: You'll need one of these to screw into one of the plug holes and then put the compressed air to it. Since the engine is locked up, it will take some trial and error to find a clyinder/piston on the compression stroke. You'll know right away because if it's not on compression, the air will just blow by a open valve. Good suggestion Eric!! You deal with more lock ups than I do!!

Are you guys telling me that an air hose might have a better shot of freeing her than the starter and/or breaker bar????
Pete - Do you think I would I be able to use a rubber plug fitting, with my weight behind it, and hold in place?
I'm pretty sure I can tell which cyl's are at TDC from when I used a plastic tube to suck the Mystery oil out.

You mechanic guys love this stuff, for me it's nerve-racking. I just want to bust her loose without messing anything up!

My trick with mine was to move it back and forth. If you can get it to move even slightly then you are home free just move it a little more each day while keeping it soaked in Marvel Mystery. You don't want to force it, the method is more like polishing the cylinders using the piston and rings while turnign the engine by hand.

More On Erics advice....

    Air to #1.
        If # 1 is not at TDC you could use air to any cylinder on the compression stroke to move the engien forwards or backwards.

Just pull the distributor cap and see which cyl the rotor is preparing to fire. If you are between 2 then the one it is past will turn the engine forwards and the one ahead will turn it backwards.   This will change as the engine moves and piston / valve position changes.

Mine fired up and ran smooth even after a deep freeze (Previous owner) cracked block and engine seizure from sitting in water. But then the cracked sleeve did me in.     

8122pbrainard wrote: Have you tried using your wrench set up on the front end of the engine to go the opposite way as suggested?

Sitting in the observer seat -
I first tried counter-clockwise (down to the left) which I believe is the way the starter turns the engine. That seemed to want to loosen the bolt.
Pressing clockwise (down to the right) seemed to tighten the bolt all the way but wouldn't budge it further.
When I bumped the ignition-
I bumped twice. It seemed to move very slightly on the 2nd bump, but then wouldn't bump anymore. That's when it seemed starter was locked in (Battery cables were getting hot).
I then tried jumper cables direct to starter bolt - No bump just a spark.

I'm figuring that once it stops raining, I should try jumpers from my truck battery, just to make sure the old boat battery wasn't lacking the kick power.

Do you think that air hose adapter can be found at a local parts store, at something like NAPA or PepBoys?

NAUTI84 wrote: Do you think that air hose adapter can be found at a local parts store, at something like NAPA or PepBoys?

Yes I'm sure they would have one but Greg above has brought up a good point. I too have thought about the battery condition. There are good battery "tenders" and bad ones but also the age of the battery is in question. Put it on a regular charger to make sure it has a full charge and then take it with you too the auto supply. They can do a load test on it which is really the only good way to determine a batteries health.

How are the battery cable terminals? Have you cleaned both them and the lugs on the battery with a wire type battery terminal cleaner?

skfitz wrote: NAUTI84 wrote: . . . I then tried jumper cables direct to starter bolt - No bump just a spark. . . . Potential problem. Can you pull starter and make sure it spins when energized somewhere other than on the seized engine?

I realy don't feel this will tell anything. Of course it's going to spin. We know there is continuity due to the warm battery cables plus but more important is the "Bendix" drive engaged. They don't engage unless that starter turns! A starter is really a pretty tough device. About the only things that go wrong with them are worn bushings causing the armature to drag on the field and worn brushes.

The engine is locked up!!

Plugs are pulled. Cables and posts were cleaned. Battery read at +12v. But I think jump from another one may be the next step.
I was thinking the same - that if starter is engaged, aren't I trying to turn the engine against it?
Guys - thanks so much for the sounding board. I need all the help I can get to work through engine stuff!   

NAUTI84 wrote: Plugs are pulled. Cables and posts were cleaned. Battery read at +12v. But I think jump from another one may be the next step. I was thinking the same - that if starter is engaged, aren't I trying to turn the engine against it? Guys - thanks so much for the sounding board. I need all the help I can get to work through engine stuff!

Hang in there buddy. Once you hear that motor fire, maybe you wont put her to sleep so long next time...

8122pbrainard wrote: I ended up using a hole saw and drilling a hole in the bell housing right over the ring gear. Then very carfully using a large screwdriver engaged into the ring gear teeth would "walk" the engine backwards slightly then bump it with the starter. I did this maybe 5 or 6 times and broke it loose. Then I used a "cap plug" to close up the hole in the bell housing.

Pete,
Was wondering, wouldn't pulling the starter give me access to the gear teeth like the 1" hole does??

Scott I think sun is gettin ready to come out!!!