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23' Fish Nautique Restoration Project

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Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fl Inboards Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2010 at 7:29pm
Their ya go, wow 100 gal cap, cool!
Tried to call but no answer.
Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.




1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2010 at 7:39pm
when having two tanks..are they conected or run parallel? or they work as 2 diferent units..with 2 filler etc? how do you work the weight distribution?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2010 at 7:43pm
Interesting ideas here. I assume all of the concepts outlined would be below the floor? If so, will the tanks be structural? Will you be foaming them back in? Im just curious how you will be replacing the strength of all the ribs/bulkheads that you are cutting into or removing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote behindpropeller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2010 at 7:48pm
Be careful with the material you use to make the tanks. I have heard some problems with ethanol and fiberglass tanks.


Tim

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jzarski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2010 at 8:30pm
Originally posted by kapla kapla wrote:

when having two tanks..are they conected or run parallel? or they work as 2 diferent units..with 2 filler etc? how do you work the weight distribution?


The way I have it planed is to have two seperate filters. each tank will be able to be shut off if needed. the two tanks will join after the filters into one line that will feed the motor. That was my idea.

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Interesting ideas here. I assume all of the concepts outlined would be below the floor? If so, will the tanks be structural? Will you be foaming them back in? Im just curious how you will be replacing the strength of all the ribs/bulkheads that you are cutting into or removing.


The Tanks are being made out of Alum. I will build bulk heads forward and aft of the tank and fill the remaing empty area with foam. Most of the structure that I am removing is going back in, just in the way of composite instead of wood. Main stringer will be the exact same location and size. The secondary stringer is being lowered for Gas tank fitting reasons. It will be made out of carbon skinned composite.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2010 at 8:36pm
Originally posted by jzarski jzarski wrote:


The Tanks are being made out of Alum. I will build bulk heads forward and aft of the tank and fill the remaing empty area with foam. Most of the structure that I am removing is going back in, just in the way of composite instead of wood. Main stringer will be the exact same location and size. The secondary stringer is being lowered for Gas tank fitting reasons. It will be made out of carbon skinned composite.

Glad to hear that you have given this some thought. I found that our v-hulled Barefoot Nautique oilcanned fairly significantly once the glass from the old stringers had been removed. We did not refoam, so we spaced our new structure much more closely (~12" between ribs instead of ~30") in order to keep the structure solid. I think the foam played a major role in keeping the hull shape in tact.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2010 at 9:54pm
I recommend plenty of port to starboard baffles as well as one down the middle internal of the tanks so they become a structural support for the hull due to the removal of the secondary stringers.. Then careful foam injection under and and on all sides of the tank. A means of bolting the tanks into the stringer system must also be considered.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2010 at 11:31pm
Dads '85 Shamrock was a 20 foot conwalk with a PCM 302 and 2 25 gallon tanks. Best cruising speed got 4 miles to the gallon.Both tanks fed into one Fram filter/water seperator with valves at the filter to select tank.The tanks on his '77 were just held in place with foam and the floor screwed down over them.The fill pipes are in the area of where your rod holders are in the gunnel with fiberglass covers over the fill and vent hoses,which I can get pic's of if you need.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-26-2010 at 12:32am
JZ - If you need that kind of range, maybe you want to consider diesel power.

Not a popular option with ski boats but you have a whole different need.

“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jzarski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-26-2010 at 1:09am
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

JZ - If you need that kind of range, maybe you want to consider diesel power.

Not a popular option with ski boats but you have a whole different need.



You know, I did look into that. One major problem, the cost is outrageous. You can find like a 5.9 cummins for 2000 but after you make it marine ready your in the 6000 range. Good friend has a Dusky that he put a diesel in and he loves it but he did complain about the cost. I think with 100 gals of fuel I will be able to do what I want. The real range issue is I want to be able to goto the Bahama's and fish for a weekend and know if the tank is full when I leave I will make it Other then that all my fishing is inside 30 miles of the coast.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jzarski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-26-2010 at 1:11am
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Dads '85 Shamrock was a 20 foot conwalk with a PCM 302 and 2 25 gallon tanks. Best cruising speed got 4 miles to the gallon.Both tanks fed into one Fram filter/water seperator with valves at the filter to select tank.The tanks on his '77 were just held in place with foam and the floor screwed down over them.The fill pipes are in the area of where your rod holders are in the gunnel with fiberglass covers over the fill and vent hoses,which I can get pic's of if you need.


I think I like this idea better. Less stuff to worry about with one filter.
Thanks Gary
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-26-2010 at 1:25pm
Jzarski, I got your email but cant reply- you didnt include your email address in your message and you have it set to "private" in your profile. Just FYI!

Regarding the "oilcanning", Im referring to the deformation of the hull when pressure is applied to it. Kind of like the bottom of an older oil can.



When we had our BFN stripped down to the bare hull, it would flex quite a bit under the weight of one person. Actually, when sitting on the trailer, it would flex under its own weight- to the point where we decided to support it better to keep the shape in tact as we rebuilt it. The ribs go a long ways towards keeping the v-hull in the proper shape, and the hull-foam-floor sandwich everywhere else keeps everything stiff and prevents deformation. Just make sure you dont decrease the rigidity of the structure with your new additions under the floor.

Like I mentioned earlier, you may want to take a look at a few of the Barefoot Nautique rebuilds, as it appears the structure is pretty similar to the Fish. "The Grinch", "Hasbeenskier", "BuffaloBFN" and myself have all documented rebuilds of these boats- lots of pictures to look at.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jzarski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-26-2010 at 8:14pm
So what do you suggest for supporting it in order to keep the shape? Can I doing one stringers at a time or will that cause more problems?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-26-2010 at 8:22pm
Originally posted by jzarski jzarski wrote:

So what do you suggest for supporting it in order to keep the shape? Can I doing one stringers at a time or will that cause more problems?

John,
You need to start reading some of the very good threads on stringer replacement! But, here's a recent thread on home made boat stands

Ignore the metal ones. They are just stabilizing the trailer. It was a misunderstanding.

BTW, I'm serious about you taking a look at the stringer threads. We don't want you to go off in a bad direction.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-27-2010 at 11:22am
I think doing one stringer at a time will save you problems. I had to do one side at a time because of the layout, but it's the same principle-1 side holds the shape of the boat while the other is fixed, and the other way 'round.

Like Pete is saying, take full advantage of the lessons some us have learned along the way and of the good advice and tech tips. Use the advanced search feature and set 'post time' as 'any' and 'results' in 'topics'.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KFD14 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2010 at 3:06am
Welcome to the site, here is a little inspiration.






Good luck, post lots of pictures.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jzarski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2010 at 2:13pm
KFD14, Is this your boat. If socan you email me some other pics. inside, bildge area and such??
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I forgot to post these here. I put them up on m blog, just forgot to do it here.

Well today with the help of a great friend Rob, Who must have lost 50lbs in sweat today, we got alot of the foam up. The bow section is done the bottom is done and we only have about 3 feet remaining on the starboard side.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KFD14 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2010 at 4:43pm
No sorry, it's not my boat. Your post made me interested in the Fish Nautique so I googled it and found these pictures. Cool boat! Have fun with the restoration. Here is another picture of the same boat. I thought you might find them inspiring.

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Foam War is over...
Today I got the rest of the foam up and some what cleaned out. There is still a few areas in the corners that I have to dig up. I also have to peel the foam off the side walls. I even had some time to cut a few of the front bulk heads. Almost made a big bobo when I was cutting the port front area, thought I was cutting the wall but I was cutting the bottom hull..... Thank god I realized and stoped. Well have to work bell to bell for the next few days so no work is gonna get done until Thursday..







Here is the link to my photo bucket gallery. I am posting all the photos here. There are more photos in the gallery then I am posting.

http://s576.photobucket.com/albums/ss210/jzarski/23%20Fish%20Nautique/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tuna_tugger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-30-2010 at 3:54pm
I am considering taking on the same project with my 1980 fish. I have a few questions. Do you plan on replacing the foam and the existing gas tank is about 75 gal. It just seams like a lot of work to make a new tank and relocate it for 25 gal. Do you have plans for the space where the old tank was? Keep the pictures comming they are great. You are answiring a lot of questions that has been running through my head with the pictures.

Thanks
Don Liberman
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Originally posted by tuna_tugger tuna_tugger wrote:

I am considering taking on the same project with my 1980 fish. I have a few questions. Do you plan on replacing the foam and the existing gas tank is about 75 gal. It just seams like a lot of work to make a new tank and relocate it for 25 gal. Do you have plans for the space where the old tank was? Keep the pictures comming they are great. You are answiring a lot of questions that has been running through my head with the pictures.

Thanks


Hey Tuna_tugger, the tank thing was more of a design issue I had with the boat oppose to the amount of fuel. I did not like the 2 ft of fishing area that there is behind the leaning post in the boat. By removing the tank and putting it under the floor I now will be able to cut that back area out and have more fishing room. I plan on taking detail pictures of the rebuild once the tear down is done. I have a favor to ask of you. If you could email me some pics of your bildge/engine area. I have no clue what it looks like all put together. When I bought the boat it was not assembled so I am kinda scratching my head about where things go under there. Thanks, I hope we can both help each other.

John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote behindpropeller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-30-2010 at 4:37pm
Originally posted by jzarski jzarski wrote:

Originally posted by tuna_tugger tuna_tugger wrote:

I am considering taking on the same project with my 1980 fish. I have a few questions. Do you plan on replacing the foam and the existing gas tank is about 75 gal. It just seams like a lot of work to make a new tank and relocate it for 25 gal. Do you have plans for the space where the old tank was? Keep the pictures comming they are great. You are answiring a lot of questions that has been running through my head with the pictures.

Thanks


By removing the tank and putting it under the floor I now will be able to cut that back area out and have more fishing room.

John


From an engineering standpoint I would think that the "box" that is designed in there around the gas tank makes the boat very rigid.

Just a thought.

Tim

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tuna_tugger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-30-2010 at 5:04pm
Ya I like the idea of some more fishing room and that would be a good place for the tank. Plus on my boat I have a 40 gal live well with tuna tubes on the swim platform so the boat sits a little low in the stern and when we are at rest and two guys are standing back there water tends to come in the scuppers. I would probibly put bait wells in the corners this would stiffen the transom and I could get rid of the swim platform. Good idea.

I will definatly take pictures for you. I got rid of the original mufflers and had quiter ones made I also had check valves made because I got water in the engine once through the exhaust because those flappers are not very effictive.
Don Liberman
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I thought about putting the live well in the starboard rear corner. I still might. I will make it an above floor live well though. The infloor wells just are not conducive to bottom fishing where I am. To much of a pain to get bait in and out. Can't wait to see the PICs.

John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tuna_tugger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-30-2010 at 5:32pm
I was talking about putting the live wells above the floor and between them I would put the rectanglar compartment that is on the aft deck now. We use it a lot. When you have the tank made make sure they put a couple of baffels in it. I saw a drawing of your new lay out but can't seem to locate it again. I'm just getting used to using this site, I'm not a very good computer geek.
Don Liberman
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote firefight-n Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-31-2010 at 11:33am
hey bud nice job so far! im new to this site also but saw your rebuild so far. Im in the process of rebuilding an 1980 FN and have been doing the rebuild so far in the last 3 months. On my boat i stripped out to nothing inside the hull but where the step up is in the front deck, i left about 5 inches of it in from Starboard to port to keep its integrity. I saw the composite stringers also and loved the idea so build my own molds and made my own stringers for about a quarter the cost. The bulkheads i made out of marine Okouma marine grade ply glassed in then put a 175 gal fuel tank down the center of the hull. My boat im turning into an outboard boat though, thats why i can do that but i would def use the saddle tank idea... Where are you located in FL?
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Originally posted by firefight-n firefight-n wrote:

hey bud nice job so far! im new to this site also but saw your rebuild so far. Im in the process of rebuilding an 1980 FN and have been doing the rebuild so far in the last 3 months. On my boat i stripped out to nothing inside the hull but where the step up is in the front deck, i left about 5 inches of it in from Starboard to port to keep its integrity. I saw the composite stringers also and loved the idea so build my own molds and made my own stringers for about a quarter the cost. The bulkheads i made out of marine Okouma marine grade ply glassed in then put a 175 gal fuel tank down the center of the hull. My boat im turning into an outboard boat though, thats why i can do that but i would def use the saddle tank idea... Where are you located in FL?


I am in the Melbourne/Palm Bay area. Do you have any photos of your build. I like the the stringer idea of doing it myself. I think I am going to go all composite when it comes to the bulkheads. There is a honey comb produce called Nida-Core that is awsome for doing bulkheads and supports. after seeing all the rotten wood in that boat I don't want anyone to ever have to do this again if I sell the boat. Are you supports the transome with wood also? If you haven't done it yet the compay I stated above make a composite pour transome product that I have used and it is great. They will send you a free gallon to play with and try out. Well if you have some photos email them to me or drop me an email maybe we can pick each others brains..

John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote firefight-n Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-31-2010 at 3:03pm
yeah i heard the nida core is a good product but for all the cuts i had to do wood was a very easy and not costly alternative. i made 3 full length bulkheads and 6 ribs to make it strengthy. the transom i made an inner skin out of 6 layers of 1808 and tabbed it in then used the "pour in" sea cast which was super strong and came out real nice... its a big transom so it took 4- 5gal pals of the stuff. what does the pour product your talking about cost for a 5 gal pal? also i dont know how to put pictures on here so if you can, explain how to and ill put the pics on here of what ive done so far..
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The Nida Pour Transome is $100 for 5Gals. not to bad for what you get. As for pics I just signed up for photobucket and uplaoded my Pics there. Its a free service, then once uploaded there you just post the link in your respnose on here and it will show the photo.
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