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Control Cable, Wax, Steering Lube

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Vancouver Matt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Vancouver Matt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Control Cable, Wax, Steering Lube
    Posted: March-22-2010 at 4:08pm
Hi there,

1989 Ski Nautique 2001

I was told the way adjust the loose linkage on my transmission control cable to loosen the jam nut and spin the pivots. I have loosened the jam nut and cannot spin anything. What does the pivot look like? Very confused here.

Does anybody know what wax works the best to get the yellowish out of the white surrounding decking? Not the hull it's fine but the surrounding top decking.

My steering is becoming a little stiffer every year. Does anybody know how to lube the steering cable?

Thank you,

Matthew
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-22-2010 at 4:29pm
I would try something like Maguiers #49 first. If some sort of compound doesn't work, you can wetsand.

This is a pivot



A couple people have figured out a way to pump grease up into a steering cable. My vote is replace it. It is easy.

Mike N

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Vancouver Matt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Vancouver Matt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-24-2010 at 8:15pm
Hi there,

Thanks for the great pic. I should be able to figure this out now.

Also how easy is it to repair the Steering Cable?

When changing transmission fluid should I use a handpump through the dipstick hole. How many quarts should I refill with and what type.

One other thing do you know where I can find new metal brackets for front retractable seat which allows access to the bow?

Regards,
Matthew
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2010 at 12:09am
Matthew

You cannot repair a steering cable. You need to replace it. It will take you and hour tops. Take the old one off the tiller arm at the rudder. Then you back off the big nut on the helm (behind the dash part of the steering asm) The cable cranks out. Connect the new cable to the old one, and feed/pull it through the boat, and reattach. Watch out for grease on the steering wheel end, it can make a mess.

Yes on the manual pump for the trans. Should take approximately 1.5 quarts of Dexron III. Check it, then run the boat for a couple minutes, and recheck.

Post a "parts wanted" thread for your seat bracket.

Did you ever check your neutral safety switch like Pete recommended in the other thread?

Pics of your boat?
Mike N

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Vancouver Matt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Vancouver Matt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-25-2010 at 5:41pm
Thank you.

I will replace the steering cable as per you're advice when I receive a little extra cash. Right Im doing the Upholestry and trailer so it's soaking me pretty good.

I will send a pic when I received the upholestry back.

The nuetral safety switch is fine. I know I just have a to adjust the control cable when I get time.

Thanks for the transmission info. This will help greatly. Going to order a hand pump via Overtons.

Brackets- will post add.

You've been a great help my friend.

Matthew
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2010 at 7:06am
Matthew,

If your cable is that bad, I would put it pretty high on your priority list. They can just randomly fail on you.

You can get a suction gun at any auto parts store, Fleet Farm, etc. No need to order online.
Mike N

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2010 at 8:41am
Matt - If you want to save a few$, you can use a gallon-sized bottle pump to pump out your transmission fluid. You can get the pump for about $2 at a beauty supply store. Just attach a small hose that can fit down into the tranny.
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Vancouver Matt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2010 at 2:26pm
Hi Wakeslayer,

How can you tell when you need to change the cable? Mine is just a little stiff not making noises or anything bad.

Thanks for the pump advice but I need to order a few things from Overtons any how. Just love Overtons for all the skis and great boating stuff they have.

Regards,
Matt

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2010 at 3:53pm
Matt,

this is what I was going by.

Originally posted by Vancouver Matt Vancouver Matt wrote:

My steering is becoming a little stiffer every year.


It is quite likely that it is original. If you have the dough, it is a good PM thing to do. You will be surprised at how bad your old one is once you put a new one in there.

A few bucks will save you a lost week of summer. And where you are, I assume you have a short of summers as we do here.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 502Python Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-26-2010 at 5:10pm
Matt,
You should be able to steer with one finger. If it takes both hands to turn you should get a new cable.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote parrott Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2010 at 2:27pm
My steering is very stiff also. Planning on purchasing new cable, however, could this be caused by the rudder needing new packing or adding grease? Also, is the best way to attach the old cable to the new cable just to duct tape them together? I was wondering if there was some type of bracket that might work better.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2010 at 2:44pm
you really don't need any thing just push the new cable down the tube and call it a day, plenty of room inside. But if you want some do use bailing wire to attach the two cables together and feed them threw that way.

If you can let go of the steering wheel and the boat stays on course then your cable is very old and should be replaced, don't try any power turns otherwise your going to have a tough time getting pact to the dock after the cable snaps.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote parrott Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2010 at 2:58pm
Okay, I'll confess my ignorance! The red thing I thought was the cable is actually a tube that the cable is encased in? I am really wondering if I am capable of this repair.
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TRBenj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2010 at 3:04pm
Youre misunderstanding. Chris is talking about the 2.5" tube that runs under the floor between the engine compartment and the floor (just in front of the driver). Ive never seen a red steering cable- youre most likely looking at the control cables (from the Morse control). The steering cable is larger (5/8" diameter) and is usually black in color. You replace the whole thing- save for a few bits on the end, that is.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote parrott Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2010 at 3:10pm
On my 92 SN, the cable that runs to the rudder is red. I greased the grease fitting on the rudder...seemed to help a little put still stiff. The cable is red however.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Vancouver Matt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2010 at 1:10pm
Hi Wakeslayer,

I went to the Local Auto parts store and looked at the Magueirs # 49 and I think this maybe a little strong. The Oxidization on my gel coat decking is not that bad. # 50 looks a little better as it is a cleaner and wax in one. Any thoughts?

Regards,

Matthew
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2010 at 1:18pm
If you have any oxidation at all, then you want the strongest rubbing compound you can find. I use 3M super duty, which removes 1000 grit scratches. Even that isnt aggressive enough sometimes and I have to resort to wetsanding.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote areford Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2010 at 5:02pm
I just cleaned up a heavily oxidized 93 sport. I had to remove the peeling stickers, wet sand with 1000 and 1500, then hit it with 3M super duty compound and some finesse-it 2. Came out great!

Today I am going to tackle the new steering cable that just arrived from whitelake. No more 2 handed steering!
1993 Sport Nautique
- New Interior - Copycat Covers
- Ramlin Trailer overhaul
- Buff and polish oxidated gel coat
- Exhaust repair
- Holley rebuild
Previous: 1980 Mastercraft - Lake Lanier. GA
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Vancouver Matt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2010 at 5:27pm
Hi there,

Where is the cheapest place to obtain a 1989 2001 Nautique Steering Cable on-line?

Regards,

Matthew

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2010 at 5:21pm
N3, White Lake, CCparts all should have them available.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Vancouver Matt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2010 at 7:08pm
Thank you Wakeslayer.

I still have not figured out the Control Cable. I took the entire cable from the shift lever (on the transmission), loosened the jam nut and still could not spin anything. Should I be doing this from the Shift lever at the driver's seat? This means I would have to take that cotter away right?? To access the pivot?

Also can I use Maguiers # 50 if the oxidation (on my gel coat decking)is very light?

One other thing my boat is equipped with a shower. Never used this but would like to know how? Has to 2 taps (one red, one blue)in the engine compartment and the hose connectted to an adaptor running from under the back seat. Is this factory?

I will send pics of the boat as soon as I get the upholsetry back and shine the decking.

This boat has been revived from being outside for 2 straight Canadian Winters and running it our Harsh deadhead BC lakes.I am very proud of my achievements.

Canadian Bacon...should change my handle.
Matthew
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-06-2010 at 8:15pm
Your pivot doesn't spin once you loosen the jam nut? You can also adjust from the shifter, it is just more of a pain to get at.

For the shower, there should be a power switch somewhere to activate the pump, and then a valve to mix the hot and cold water to you don't scald yourself. The pump really hot water so watch out. I removed mine as I never used it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-07-2010 at 9:30am
Originally posted by Vancouver Matt Vancouver Matt wrote:

Also can I use Maguiers # 50 if the oxidation (on my gel coat decking)is very light?

Like I said before, a cleaner wax will not be strong enough to touch oxidation.

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

If you have any oxidation at all, then you want the strongest rubbing compound you can find. I use 3M super duty, which removes 1000 grit scratches. Even that isnt aggressive enough sometimes and I have to resort to wetsanding.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Vancouver Matt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-09-2010 at 3:42pm
Hi There,

I just wanted to know the best way to winterize my Engine. I removed the hoses from the Risers and turned the end drain bolts to allow water to to drain from the risers. I also removed the water filter and screen. Any thing else I should do (cooling wise) before every winter? The boat is in a room temperature Underground parking.

Also should I replace the Impeller every season? What is the easiest way to remove the impeller?
Matthew
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-09-2010 at 4:02pm
You need to remove the block drains, let drain, and replace. Should be one on each side.
I am of the opinion that you do not need to replace impellers every year. Some people do for piece of mind. I just keep a close eye on my gauges and keep a spare on hand.
To remove, you open the plate on the back of the RWP housing, should be 3 or 4 bolts. I think they are 7/16". New impellers come with a variety of gaskets, mind which one you have, if there is one, and replace that at the same time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Vancouver Matt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-09-2010 at 4:05pm
Thank you for the impeller info.

Where exactly are the block drains? I did not do this..Hope all is still okay with engine?
Matthew
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Vancouver Matt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-13-2010 at 7:27pm
Hello Wakeslayer,

Where exactly are the block drains? I did not do this..Hope all is still okay with engine?
Matthew
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Vancouver Matt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-13-2010 at 7:55pm
If I have replaced the Speed Tube Pitots on the rear of the boat and the Speedometers still provide Inaccurate readings should I think about replacing the Speedo's?
Matthew
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-13-2010 at 8:01pm
No. Theyre adjustable. Get in a slalom course and set them at skiing speeds, or borrow a GPS and get them dialed in. Ive found the Airguides to be surprisingly accurate throughout the speed range.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Vancouver Matt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-13-2010 at 8:37pm
I think their gone. Both of the black needles have bent badly and only one works properly with the orange needle only. How hard is it to change these?
Matthew
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