1980 Ski Nautique Total Restoration

Pete, here is an almost dead-on picture. What do you think?

Okay, sounds good. I will be able to fiddle with it tonight and see if I can make it better. The prop is currently installed on the shaft as well. I was hoping that I would be able to do this without removing it since I don't have a puller. Is removing the prop necessary to get a good alignment job?

To make sure what you are saying: Shimming the actual bolt is not necessary; just shimming the plate is sufficient?

Glad I used 4200 rather than 5200.

Brainardized it. Took it apart and put it back together 3 times, before I was happy. I finally realized that my problem was that I was using a cordless driver to run the nuts down. I checked them with a 1/2 ratchet and the blasted thing came right into line. Still need to crawl back under and do a little cleanup around the cavity of the strut and the fins tomorrow evening.



I also got the exhaust ports and flappers installed tonight; nice to do an easy job.

Here is my question for the night. What is the best method to cut exhaust hose? I was thinking about either a portable handheld bandsaw, a 14" friction saw, or a long bi-metal blade on a Sawzall?

This is an awesome thread. You have done an awesome job. I know in my case I would LEARN so much tearing into my boat. And then when it is done, you feel so comfortable knowing how it all goes together and that it is not going to breakdown or fail you.

I have just finished a '75 Porsche 914. It is not pretty, but mechanically I would drive it to California and back with no fear.


My wife is pleading with me for this to be the last car. I said it would be, 'cause I want to rebuild a BOAT next. Maybe a Fish Nautique....

Congrats

Yeah, we had a long caravan that day. No chance to speed with so many folks in front of you. I just put it in 3rd and cruised.

Watauga wrote: One word-Air-Chise. If you are working on a trailer that is rusted pretty badly, get one. I had this one stashed away for a long time but quickly remembered it when I started dealing with rusted carriage bolts that were spinning in the bunks.

This is why I have suggested to anyone replacing bunks to use hex heads bolts set in countersinks.

Watauga wrote: Finally, does anyone know what these 2 drop down brackets are used for?

Light bar that's required in some states.

Yes, Pete. Going to use a combination of methods, but primarily starting with a big-azz Milwaukee with a knotted wire brush. One of the worse job site injuries I have saw was when a laborer got a wire brush tangled up in a flannel shirt.

Have it sandblasted,you get a better job and someone else gets dirty

gun-driver wrote: Stay away from the wire wheels!!! You would be amazed at how many people end up in the ER from those spinning flechette dispensers. I’ve seen those wires stuck in eyes, faces, necks you name it. Get some 3M 24 grit grinding discs and have at it then any bad grinding marks can be taken out with some 36 grit discs.

Paul,
No safety gear? I've done plenty of wire wheeling with the big grinders and never had a problem. Yes, care is needed but also don't buy the cheap wire wheels from the big box stores that throw their wires! Encapsulated wire brushes work great too. Repeating myself, you won't get the grinding marks out. A light wire brushing and a penetrating primer is all that's needed.

Yup, Gary has the best method - sandblast it.

gun-driver wrote: Not sure of what safety gear was being used. They call I haul.

had to LOL....

had written on the inside tool cabinet door on my underground truck.."nobody gets hurt"..had to read that everyday everytime I got out a tool..makes one think all the time. I used to drive guys crazy with all the "safety crap"...but "nobody got hurt"

are you in East Tennessee Arklie?

BTW...Haiti was..well..life changing. would never be able to express it in a few words.




john

Thanks, All, for the suggestions. I too think sandblasting is the best option, but finding a capible firm around these parts is highly problematic. I have done more than my fair share of sandblasting, including blasting the entire hull on our houseboat.

I simply went with a knotted wire brush on a big Milwaukee side grinder, a smaller knotted wire brush on a small Milwaukee side grinder and a few brass wire brushes chucked in drill motors to reach into the tighter spots. I have the entire main frame cleaned up and in 1 coat of Rustoleum primer.



I have also have the nose frame prepared for primer as well and also the nose jack.





Pete answered one of my trailer questions. Here is another. Anyone know the purpose of this tab with the large hole it it? It's welded to the bottom of the Starboard trailer frame rail.



I also pulled the leaf springs off the axle and I am considering taking them apart and cleaning up each individual leaf and repainting them as well.

We have had some cold weather (relatively) here the last few days, so on those nights I installed the fuel cell and hooked up the filler hose, fuel line, vent hose, etc. Also installed the exhaust mufflers and exhaust hose between the mufflers and the exhaust port fittings. I got the cradle lagged in properly, will will need to take the bolts back out and CPES the penetrations and reinstall them with 5200. Coming along.

If that tab is on the frame near the axle it could be the mount for the brake line flex hose. Steel line from master cylinder to there,then the hose from there to the axle to a T,then steel line to each brake plate.

Original style wheel/tire packages seem to be widely available and at very reasonable prices.

If you don't have one, you should save and clean up one wheel and maybe the best tire for a spare.

Joel,
Am I looking at some of them?

8122pbrainard wrote: Then I suggest not using the 3M type insulation displacement connections. Water gets into the wire and the untinned wire corrodes causing problems.

The trailer looks great.