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1979 Nautique PYLON Removal

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boeing777 View Drop Down
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    Posted: March-13-2009 at 4:16am
   I have never removed the tow pylon before, and must do so to accomplish some deck repairs. Are there any secrets or shortcuts I must be aware of before attempting the removal of the Ski Pylon? If anyone has any advice on how to remove the PYLON it would be greatly appreciated!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brady Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-13-2009 at 9:24am
Carey

THere are a number of threads on this subject over the last few years, and one that I saw just the other day. You should be able to find it. Good luck!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brady Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-13-2009 at 9:29am
Cary'
Check out the" 79 Nautique rebuild" in the Maintenance section.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-13-2009 at 12:20pm
Cary,
I have to ask if you are working on several boats or are you still trying to get the same pylon out. You posted pylon removal questions in March of 06 and then again in May of 06.

I think you should post some pictures of the problem. A 70's type pylon will just have the 4 bolts at the floor plate and the pin in a socket at the keel. This pin can be rusted in and would be the only problem some run into.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boeing777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2009 at 4:56pm
I am sorry, but I happen to be working on the same boat. The past couple of years I posted the same question but when it came to using the information provided I either got sidetracked or had forgotten and got lazy.....so I never got around to actually removing it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2009 at 5:36pm
to get the pin out i use a air hammer and special ground bit, they are a SOB at times to get out
"the things you own will start to own you"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Daveinater Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2009 at 12:34am
hey boeing....safe to assume you're a 777 driver? I fly the 73N. Where in Canada are you located?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boeing777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-16-2009 at 2:16am
Daveinater:I reside in Vancouver, B.C. but I am based in HKG on the 773. Commuting is a.....

Now, I still have this nagging problem of removing my pylon. I did check out the other posts to no avail. First of all after removing the 4 bolts the bottom plate fell freely away (good I assume) as for the top plate will not move freely away from the pylon. Is that plate supposed to be attached (i.e. welded?) or should I chisel away at it. During my learning from prior posts I did come across somebody above mentioning a PIN that is supposed to attach the pylon through the socket at the keel. I cannot for the life of me find this PIN. The pylon shows no sign of having a foreign metal spear anywhere near!
STILL FRUSTRATED.....CPick
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-16-2009 at 10:20am
Carey,
There isn't a cross pin at the socket glassed to the keel. Again, it's simply the 1" male pin out the bottom of the aluminum pylon that fits into the female socket at the keel. The floor plate holds everything in. The pin is rusted into the socket - very common!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boeing777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-17-2009 at 8:41pm
8122pbrainard:
    Roughly how deep does this 1" male pin go into the glassed area at the keel. From what I am observing the area could have been reglassed and is hiding this FEMALE reciever. I just don't want to get into a bigger job than necessary or have to remove a lot of fiberglass only to find I am looking in the wrong area.It seems the glass surrounding the female reciever is built up almost like an ant hill, should it be this way? I also have a question about the 1" MALE PIN at the bottom of the PYLON, is this welded to the Pylon or is it threaded? Also is the material used for this 1" PIN brass, stainless or aluminum?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-17-2009 at 9:41pm
Carey,
The "ant hill" description is good! I'd say the 1" pin goes into the socket less than 1". This 1" pin is carbon steel as well as the socket and the reason they rust together frequently. This 1" pin is fastened to the aluminum pylon the same way the ring and finger is - a cross drilled hole and a roll pin. Trust me that removing it that way would be impossible. Removing the ring and finger has frustrated may a 70's CC owner!!

Yes, it would have been nice for CC to have made the pin out of brass stainless or even one of the corrosion resistant aluminums but they were in there "economy" mode at the time!! It is NOT threaded.

Get some penetrating oil down at the bottom and let it soak. Then get a bar through the ring and finger and state twisting back and forth.

It sure doesn't sound like you took the suggestion of Brady and looked at the "79 Tique rebuild" thread so here to make it easy: Tique rebuild. Look at the pictures!!!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-17-2009 at 10:49pm
socket:

pylon pin:


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boeing777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-17-2009 at 11:11pm
Pete (8122pbrainard)
     Your communication and especially your pictures of the task that lies ahead for me are a life saver. I thank you in advance for the work I must try. I will keep you posted of my success!!!!!!!!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Daveinater Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-17-2009 at 11:13pm
Looking at photos like this makes me really appreciate this forum. How cool is it that you have to deal with something "unknown" and get a "behind the scenes look" at what you're dealing with?

Now, can someone post a photo of my wife's mind?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Daveinater Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-18-2009 at 12:21am
Nevermind....I found out how it works:

How my wife's brain works
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boeing777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-18-2009 at 6:51pm
Pete (8122pbrainard)
Again I have been racking my brain over this task as well as hesitating how much work I want to create for myself... Obviously since the socket is entirely glassed into the bottom of the boat, there is no way around getting the pylon out without removing some of the glass. Is this correct? If so do you recomend grinding down the glass or cutting it away? Or for that matter how did you expose the socket reciever?
Your help is forever priceless!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-18-2009 at 7:11pm
Originally posted by boeing777 boeing777 wrote:

Obviously since the socket is entirely glassed into the bottom of the boat, there is no way around getting the pylon out without removing some of the glass. Is this correct?

No. Get some good penetrating oil in there and let it sit for a few days. Then put a breaker bar through the ring and finger and twist. That should break the pin and socket free. Dont touch the glass around the socket.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-18-2009 at 7:19pm
You shouldn't have to remove anything besides those 4 floor bolts to get the pylon out of the boat. You must not be getting a good look in your bilge, the pin will slide up and out of that socket that is glassed into the hull.

Are you suggesting that if you can't separate the two, it will come down to grinding away the fiberglass to take the whole "assembly" out?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boeing777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-18-2009 at 7:51pm
No I am not suggesting that if I can't separate the two, it will come down to grinding away the fiberglass to take the whole "assembly" out! Either the pin socket has been reglassed or CC overdone it with the glass and bilge paint, because you cannot even see any sign of foreign metal surrounding the PYLON. The paint and glass run right up and around the 1" pin. So at the very least I think I will have to grind or sand away the paint and or a layer of glass in order to expose the metal socket. Then proceed with the saturating of the socket with penetrating oil!
Also is the 1" PIN secured in the socket by anything like a crosspin or does it just sit in the socket freely?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-18-2009 at 9:53pm
Originally posted by boeing777 boeing777 wrote:

I either got sidetracked or had forgotten and got lazy.....


C'mon Carey...

You have the best adivce out there...if your set-up is the reverse of what's pictured above, you only have a little gel cote over the union.

Otherwise, the info is here on your thread.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-18-2009 at 9:56pm
Carey,
No pin!! CC didn't overdo glassing in the socket. It's typically done when the stringers are glassed into the hull. Any extra glass would have been done by a PO. How about a picture?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-18-2009 at 9:59pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Carey,
There isn't a cross pin at the socket glassed to the keel. Again, it's simply the 1" male pin out the bottom of the aluminum pylon that fits into the female socket at the keel. The floor plate holds everything in. The pin is rusted into the socket - very common!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-18-2009 at 10:00pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Carey,

Get some penetrating oil down at the bottom and let it soak. Then get a bar through the ring and finger and state twisting back and forth!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dwcar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2009 at 12:32am
Pete,
Should he put a bar thru the ring and finger. I am worried that he might damage the ring. What about a pipe wrench with a cheater bar?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79TiqueRebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2009 at 2:07am
I soaked mine for several days with penetrating oil. Then I had to use a pipe wrench with a cheater bar because the previous owner had cut off the ring finger to fit on the tall pylon. At first I just got it to barely move but I kept working it back and forth till I spun it completely around. Then lifting up and twisting it finally came out.
I put it back in the socket the other night and It was loose and sloppy. go figure?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-19-2009 at 9:44am
Originally posted by dwcar dwcar wrote:

Pete,
Should he put a bar thru the ring and finger. I am worried that he might damage the ring. What about a pipe wrench with a cheater bar?


Getting a pipe wrench down in the the bilge is tough because there's not much room. With a bar through the ring care and patience must be used.

This is really one of the great engineering jobs that CC did. Who puts a carbon steel cup facing up to collect water in the bilge of a boat and then sticks a carbon steel pin inside it!!! I Never-Seized mine when I put it back together.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2018 at 6:59am
Having same problem getting cutoff pylon out of my newly acquired 1979 SN.
My main problem is I can'y get the bolts out of the top plate, had to get a younger friend come over and He got the nuts off. Seems the heads of the bolts are really wore down since 1979????
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2018 at 8:16am
Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:


My main problem is I can'y get the bolts out of the top plate, had to get a younger friend come over and He got the nuts off. Seems the heads of the bolts are really wore down since 1979????

John,
Aren't the four bolts slotted oval heads? Worn down? Has someone been trying to use too small of a slotted bit? I suggest a 15/32 bit in an impact drill/driver. The bolts are probably "threaded" into the wood.

Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

cutoff pylon

Is the pylon cut down or is it just the ring and finger?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2018 at 9:01am
The PO cut off the ring to put that tall pole on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-21-2018 at 10:09am
Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

The PO cut it off to put that tall pole on.

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


Is the pylon cut down or is it just the ring and finger?


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