Step one...

...clean.

What a mess. I tell you, there will always be something covering my boat. Never understood folks who left things out in the open to gunk up. My dad used to be like that, left his boats and farm equipment out baking in the sun, always having to fix things. Thankfully he has changed his ways.

So if figured the best thing to do at this point is clean her up. Not only does it look nicer having a shiny beautiful classic boat in your back yard but it makes working on her much easier. And now I have a very good understanding of where everything is.

Enjoy.



Pulled the floor out, cleaned it as well (not shown). Scrubbed with a brush and soap. Got the algae off, now my wife might actually put her bare feet in it. Once stringers are redone I will re-carpet.





Dirty girl.



I'm not surprised.



The tank. Going to plastic. This ones got rust. Is this the original anyone know?





All clean. At least as clean as it's going to be.



A little before and after. Nothing some car wash soap, a sponge and scotch bright bad can't take care of.



All cleaned up and dry. Definitely needs a polish and wax, I'll have to do some research on that. I assume after it will look more like the pick below.



Still wet, nice and shiny.

Big difference already. Gonna be a beautiful boat when you're done.

The rust is inside the tank. Otherwise I would keep it and spend the money elsewhere.

I'm sure the carpet will come off the floor. Are you saying that originally there was no carpet?

Tell you what's confusing me, the rear seat. The fiberglass part does not seem to attach to anything. Just sits on the floor....???

David,
Take a look through the reference section and the diaries at the Mustangs. There are some pictures that will give you a idea of the original. The Mustangs had the fiberglass floor pans. The inside of the hull sides didn't have carpet ether. They were uphostered and had side pockets. If you take the carpet off the floor pan, I feel you'll find the holes for the rear seat screws.

See if there is a auto radiator shop in your area that does gas tank restoration and find out what they would charge. Radiator shops seem to be into this because they have the hot tanks for boiling out the tank. There are also do it yourself kits. Some here have done it. With antiques and classics, restoration of the original is the preferred method.

ACBS rules where changed last year in regards to model years. You have a boat that can go into a ACBS judged show.


nice 69 showing interior

Here's a nice red 70. With the exception of the owner violating the side panels with the speakers and the addition of the swim platform, it looks pretty original.

red 70

David,
I think Bruce (Riley) was picking up a left over set of side panels from a member that didn't want them anymore. That's a very lucky find! He's in Maine and I don't know where you are? Tracing existing and making them would be easy. I'm sure Bruce will be in shortly - He may be able to help you out.

Then floor pan can be repaired by patching in glass on the bottom side. The top side is going to be the problem because it is a textured surface. Careful routing out of the cracks and refilling them is possible and then painting. This is the only case that I recommend paint on fiberglass. Re gelling is near impossible due to the textured surface.

A tracing on red rosin paper would do it! You would only need one side as they are mirror image pieces.

I am picking up my new side panels next weekend. I do have one side panel that came with my boat, (I thew the other one out as it was rotted). I could remove the old uplostry and trace it for you, if that would be of help. One problem though, they are about 12' long and are made of 1/4"+- plywood. I would guess that it was custom plywood. Can you buy that stuff, Pete?

I'll trace it out for you. Send me an email with your address. It may take me a week or two, but I'll get it to you. Sistering would probably work just fine.

David, I figured Bruce would help you out. He's a nice guy!!! A butt block joint on the backside to make the length will be fine. It will be hidden.

Not a good looking floor pan!! I'm going to have to think about it.

Gary, I can trace one for you, too. Probably rosin paper would work the best. I may even have some. Email me your address. I'll either get it done this weekend or next at the latest.

Vondy, I wouldn't go pulling that engine, unless you plan to really dig into the hull and not use it for awhile. Pete, told me to pull mine in the beginning and I resisted, figuring it would just prolong my project. Well, I've yanked mine out and have no schedule as to when it will be back in. The project keeps getting a little bigger about every other time I work on it.

Bruce, I only recommended pulling your engine because of the stringer work you needed to do and because of the problems you were having getting the trans off. I Hope you're not holding it against me now??

Riley,

I decided not to pull the engine until winter. Really no reason just to get her running. Perhaps I'll do the stringer job this winter and get the engine looking good.

I drilled some holes into the stringers yesterday and yes, brought up some wet wood. They are tough and solid, but wet.

Figure they will last one or two short trips to the lake this year.

Riley did you get my email?

Cool Riley, no rush.