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getting ready to winterize

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-10-2016 at 11:36am
Ah, I get it now. I totally agree, drain it all...

Good morning Ken. it's coffee refill time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bb12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-10-2016 at 11:51am
Sounds good, thanks Ken and HW.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flyweed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2016 at 12:37am
Ok guys, winterized my 93 today, and have a couple questions.

1. on the raw water strainer...how the HELL do you get the screw off "cup" off and back on? mine did come off with some effort, but it felt like the threads were super sticky, and I can't be sure I got it screwed back on tight enough to seat the rubber O ring. Can I put some grease or something on the plastic threads to make removal and re-installation easier?

2. I unbolted the raw water pump and pulled the back off to inspect the impeller. It looked like new. BUT...I can't remember what way is up and what way is down on the pump to bolt it back onto the engine.

Any help would be great.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2016 at 1:46am
Originally posted by flyweed flyweed wrote:

Ok guys, winterized my 93 today, and have a couple questions.

1. on the raw water strainer...how the HELL do you get the screw off "cup" off and back on? mine did come off with some effort, but it felt like the threads were super sticky, and I can't be sure I got it screwed back on tight enough to seat the rubber O ring. Can I put some grease or something on the plastic threads to make removal and re-installation easier?

2. I unbolted the raw water pump and pulled the back off to inspect the impeller. It looked like new. BUT...I can't remember what way is up and what way is down on the pump to bolt it back onto the engine.

Any help would be great.


I used a bit of petroleum jelly on both sets of threads. Works great.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2016 at 9:39am
Originally posted by flyweed flyweed wrote:

   I unbolted the raw water pump and pulled the back off to inspect the impeller. It looked like new. BUT...I can't remember what way is up and what way is down on the pump to bolt it back onto the engine.

Any help would be great.


go to this link and look at Hollywood's post complete with graphics and you'll get it right

this link
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flyweed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2016 at 12:58pm
Thanks..that helps alot.

One other question. I topped off my gas tank, and I thought when the tank got full I'd see gas come out the little chrome "vent" next to the fill port. BUT, when I got full gas would gurgle and spit out the FILL port where I had the gas nozzle insert.... Any thoughts?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2016 at 1:03pm
Plugged vent?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flyweed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2016 at 1:12pm
how do I check the vent..just blow into it? or should I remove seat back, and disconnect vent hose??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote spiralhelix Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2016 at 1:20pm
Huh, that happened to me every time i fill up, but never seem to have venting issues. I just chalked it up to the fill hose filling quicker than the shutoff can react. I started using the lever release at the lowest setting and when i think im close, finish manually. Plus the fill hose inserts into the tank lower than the vent.

Another explaination is that there should be a "loop" or vertical bend to help prevent water from entering the tank via the vent, and if that bend is above the fill hole, it would be difficult for the gas to breach that bend.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2016 at 1:26pm
I have to fill carefully too, go slow as it gets full, or it kicks back out the fuel fill.

You really don't want to fill to the point where it flows out your vent. Yes, you definitely want to verify that your vent is working, I guess I'd start by blowing some air in the fill and seeing if you feel air coming out the vent, easier than pulling things apart to look.

I asssume you are worried that your tank needs to be full to the brim for winter storage. Lots of differing opinions on this, and do a search and you'll find the comments easily. I'm not a believer in it, just stabilize the gas and leave it, I'd rather be adding fresh gas in the spring to a tank left fairly empty rather than having a full tank of stale old gas to burn off in the spring. Like I said, lots of opinions both ways on this, but I'd say it's the least important of all your winterizing decisions.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2016 at 2:33pm
Our '92 would overflow if we used the lock on the gas pump handle. Had to fill it slowly to avoid this. Vent worked fine as you could feel air being pushed out as we filled the tank.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flyweed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2016 at 2:46pm
yep, I just confirmed my vent is free as well. I removed gas cap, and blew into it, and air easily came rushing out through the vent. Guess I'll just have to fill slower.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flyweed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2016 at 5:10pm
petroleum jelly on the thread for the raw water strainer and ALL is well. Went on super easy.

Now, I found something that concerns me. Upon sucking out and changing the transmission fluid. It was pink, but milky pink. I've read enough already to know that water is mixed in there. (with my hand pump, I only managed to suck out about 1 quart). and replaced with fresh. my hand pump was bottoming out, so I assume I need a smaller diameter hose to get down to get more than 1 quart out. Also, my Bilge floor is clean and dry, no water, no oil, no transmission fluid. Can I assume I should order a new Trans. Cooler and replace the old one (that is original-1993)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote spiralhelix Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2016 at 5:32pm
I would flush it a 3-4 times first (running between each flush with water directly going to RWP) and then run it briefly to see if the problem persists before ordering a new cooler. The water post cooler just keeps from reintroducing more water IF the cooler is the problem. I would want to make sure I get all the milk out first so it is definitive the cooler is the problem and not just remixing of the old stuff. Though, this method would get expensive with all the wasted ATF if the cooler ends up being the problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2016 at 5:38pm
Originally posted by spiralhelix spiralhelix wrote:

if the problem persists before ordering a new cooler.

Before ordering a new trans cooler, I suggest pressure testing it first. You don't want to become just another one of those "parts changers"!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2016 at 5:42pm
Cooler is probably fine. If the bilge has ever been flooded water can enter the transmission. It'll stay there too because it's more dense than ATF.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2016 at 5:48pm
Yes, seems more likely it just got in through the breather at some point. Or, could be condensation if the oil never was changed, doesn't take much water to milk up the oil.

Do one change, run it, and see what it looks like then. If it looks better I'd just do one additional change and call it good. You can't get all the oil out anyway so may not be pristine looking, but will be ok.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flyweed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2016 at 5:52pm
so, since the engine is completely winterized now, do I "un-winterize" it now and start the engine up, and work on this..or drain and change out the transmission again, and let it go until spring?   

How does one pressure test the cooler? I don't really have the tools necessary to do a pressure test (I don't think)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2016 at 5:56pm
pressure testing isn't always as painful or expensive as one might think... a 5 dollar harbor freight bicycle pump and a couple rubber plugs drilled and filled with lag bolt and hose clamps can often make things happen.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2016 at 6:38pm
Dan,
Running the engine to circulate the ATF would be a good idea but don't drain the engine.. I'd pull the belt off the RWP and start the engine for about a minute then change the ATF. If you still get pink, do it again. You don't want water sitting in the trans over winter.

I didn't mean to scare you about pressure testing the trans cooler! But, as Joe mentioned it's not a major project. I prefer to pressurize the oil side because of the threaded fittings. A trip to the auto supply will get you fixed up with a couple fittings to plug one end and get some compressed air in the other. After you pump it up with air (about 20 PSI) stick it in a bucket of water and look for bubbles.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2016 at 8:26pm
I use a 1/8 copper tube to get all the way down to bottom on tranny. There is a small hole that the dipstick goes into, so a normal hose won't fit.    Be careful not to drop the tube in there!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-11-2016 at 10:44pm
+100

Use a long tube than can't drop to the bottom!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flyweed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-12-2016 at 4:43pm
here is a pic of after I did the original trans fluid change yesterday. Today, I did as suggest. unhooked the RWP and ran the engine today for 1 minute...then I drained what I had put in yesterday. Here is the photo of what I drained today after the 1 minute run.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-12-2016 at 4:52pm
Yesterday was yesterday. Today is today.

Fluid looks fine
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-12-2016 at 4:57pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flyweed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-12-2016 at 5:00pm
LOL..Ok Ok, After re-reading my last post..I realize that was a bit confusing!   Anyway, the fluid in the above pic was after running my engine for 1 minute, with no water pump running. should I change it out again, or ????

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-12-2016 at 6:41pm
I'd run it longer than a minute between flushes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flyweed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-12-2016 at 7:41pm
should I flush another time and add new fluid..or call it good?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bb12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-12-2016 at 7:51pm
Is that Bloody Mary mix?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-12-2016 at 8:00pm
From the picture, it still looks like it has a milky tint to it. I'd run the engine again and do one more ATF change.


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