Pour in Method - anti-freeze

gun-driver wrote: Riley wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: You aren't even using a refractometer to check the protection level!!! Pete, where do you get a refractometer? I was toying with the idea this year about draining, filling up with -100 and then draining again and using the antifreeze on multiple boats. But I'd want to test the anti freeze after recovering it from each boat. One of these would work and you can get them at a local autoparts store. https://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WESTWARD-Antifreeze-Hydrometer-1DXL6

WRONG! A hydrometer will work on normal auto antifreeze but want to warn everyone that a refracometer must be used on RV antifreeze.

I accidentally left a Sprite in the freezer the other night. The can exploded hard enough that it actually opened the freezer door.

That's enough freeze related carnage for me for now. I was just happy it wasn't a grape soda

8122pbrainard wrote: WakeSlayer wrote: heh heh. Here we go again.    Mike, Yes, it is that time of year up in the nort!! Then, come spring we'll be reading a few threads about cracked blocks and manifolds!!

To those that are half assing your winterization:   I see MINUS 30* F. annually. We have mid -40's once or twice every few years. If my boats have never had a problem in 16 or 17 years of this occurence, read and heed. It just isn't worth not taking the 5 minutes to drain, or spend the $10 in AF.

Is the RV stuff that same as the pink/reddish stuff that you often see in cars nowadays? Or is that another kind of antifreeze.

Bri892001 wrote: Is the RV stuff that same as the pink/reddish stuff that you often see in cars nowadays? Or is that another kind of antifreeze.

That is different. the orange stuff I have used is called Dex Cool, and used in my F350, and pretty sure my Jeep. It is an enhanced anti corrosion version of the green stuff. You should never mix with the green stuff as it reduces the good qualities of both. It's also really expensive. Someone has a red antifreeze but it is just dyed green stuff.

Pink is RV only, and not ever meant to be diluted. Sorta like the special -100* stuff. But way cheaper.

I ask because I figure I'll do a coolant change on my 2006 Jeep with 56,000 miles. I'm thinking the owners manual saying something about it being a dealer item, but the term dexcool sounds familiar. I'm thinking it's probably an autoparts store item in reality.

gun-driver wrote: WRONG! A hydrometer will work on normal auto antifreeze but want to warn everyone that a refracometer must be used on RV antifreeze.

Pete after I posted that I realized they were talking about the RV stuff.[/QUOTE]
Paul,
Understood!   

8122pbrainard wrote:     WhiteLakeSkier wrote: Time has told, it hasn't failed. If it fails, it is not because of the process used to winterize, it is operator error. If it was such a liability, and half-assed way, none of the marinas doing it would be in business! It is in everyone's best interest to not destroy an engine. Riley wrote: I don't believe the method you use is used around here. The marinas pull plugs and hoses before pickling. There's always someone that takes short cuts unbeknown to anyone else. And to my knowlege, none in my area ether. Michael, Just how many marina's have you been to? The bottom line is the method has risks especially without checking the protection levels. Isn't not checking the protection level the "operator error" you speak of?

I have been to 4 other marinas, and they all do the same. No problems. It gets extremely cold in Old Forge too.

As for even more marinas??
These all do it:
http://www.genesinlandmarine.com/winterization.html

http://www.lakekeoweemarina.com/mwinter.cfm

http://www.lakeannamarina.net/marina.html

http://www.surfsidemarina.net/services.htm

http://www.badgersislandmarina.com/service.html

That's a quick search off Google. I bet they are all taking short cuts and leaving them self open to destroying all of their customer's motors. Aren't they silly!?

Seriously. It is $8-10 max in antifreeze. $35 tops for oil/filter.

I could knock out a dozen a day without breaking a sweat. $4428 gross. minus $540 materials cost. $3900 or 88% profit. Not bad for a day's work.

8122pbrainard wrote: WhiteLakeSkier wrote: That's a quick search off Google. I bet they are all taking short cuts and leaving them self open to destroying all of their customer's motors. Aren't they silly!? Michael, Thanks for the links. They certainly were informative especially since none stated what methods they use or if they drain first. So, the question was how many marinas have you been to? Assuming you have been to all these you linked and have observed their procedures, fill us in. BTW, I know how to "google" too!

They listed antifreeze as the method of winterization. But I guess that unless we have team of peters to go to the marinas and inspect their methods, none of that information is official.

You don't care if they drain first. You think you need to either go by the manual, or just drain. If it cracks, then you didn't poke around the hole to get the rest of the water out. Everyone using antifreeze is just stupid and wasting their money for no reason right??

For knowing know to use a search engine, you sure don't have an idea of what has the ability to work when done correctly. Just like draining works in theory if done correctly, so does running antifreeze if done correctly.

But to Pete's point, none of them say whether they're draining first.

Regardless of who's right, I've just pissed my pants and am rolling in the floor laughing.

behindpropeller wrote: No use arguing with Pete or Boat Dr. They are set in their ways and refuse any new ideas or technology.

So you subscribe to the no drain method? Not quite sure if BoatDr knows anything about winterizing.

.

Approximately how much anti freeze is needed to pour into the engine if done as per the engine manual in the reference section? Is one gallon enough t fill the engine?