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One manifold is hotter than the other...

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behindpropeller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote behindpropeller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-02-2009 at 3:43pm
Originally posted by Randy_in_Ohio Randy_in_Ohio wrote:



Hey Tim, what did you do to fix this problem two years ago???



I never could find the reason...for all I know it has been like that since it left the factory.

FYI... My dripless packing water lube comes out of the "J" just below the waterpump.

Tim

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Randy_in_Ohio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-02-2009 at 3:38pm
Harbor freight has a laser thermometer for $26.99. I could pick one up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-02-2009 at 3:17pm
I wonder if a restricted fitting to the port side would create more flow to the starboard? this may even things out a bit, we could use some temp readings, when a transmission hits 150 degrees i can hold my hand on it for about 5 seconds, at 180 degrees about 2 seconds. i use a digital thermometer for accuarte readings. Is there anyone with these common temps? we have gathered that the Starboard generally runs hotter than the port, but how hot is hot?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Randy_in_Ohio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-02-2009 at 2:58pm
I moved the clear hose to the dripless seal from after the RWP to before the port side manifold and it didn't seem to make much of a difference. The starboard side is still a lot hotter than the port side. I didn't run it hard for very long since the weather started to turn bad, but I could keep my hand on the port side comfortably but the starboard side got hot enough to where I could still touch it but wouldn't want to leave my hand on it for very long.

The sound that Eric mentioned above went away after I loosened the belt on the RWP. I think the belt was too tight and that was what was causing the sound we heard.

I have no idea what is causing this.

Hey Tim, what did you do to fix this problem two years ago???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-01-2009 at 11:02am
with the perko hooked up and a pressurized hose will the pump sound like it cavitates? i listened on the phone as Randy ran the boat and it sounded like the pump was jerking, up at GL also the top right hose going to the port manifold was also pulsating. above sounds logical, we did pull the hose to the starboard and it seemed like it did have plenty of flow....pretty baffled, but Ive always plummed them on the hose after the RWP,. when i open a package the first thing to go in the garbage are the directions...good day to learn something...the hoses are whats baffling me on why the are pulsating because we cant see any air in the clear line from the dripless
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Randy_in_Ohio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-01-2009 at 4:19am
Originally posted by JR_VIC JR_VIC wrote:

I had the same issue on my 92 SNCB with a 351W. After I changed to Hi Teks I noticed that the starboard side is almost 40 degrees warmer than the port side. I called Ski DIM and they confirmed directly from PCM that the Starboard side will run hotter than the port side but I got no answer as to exactly how much hotter it will run. They backed this up because if you add the OJ Dripless shaft seal PCM and OJ recommend pulling water off to run to the shaft seal off the port side of the engine because there is more water flowing to that side than the starboard side. Again, I don't know how temp variation is acceptable but this information may help in knowing that some difference is normal.

Thanks!


I pulled this old thread up tonight while searching for ideas on why my starboard side manifold has been running hot after a certain marine mechanic and inboard transmission specialist from Brunstucky replaced my manifolds which both had cracks in them, installed an OJ dripless seal, and rebuilt my trannny which was leaking pretty badly and was making clunking noises when put into gear.

While the transmission is now smooth as silk, the starboard manifold is getting really hot. So, I called this Brunstuckian, (who also stole one of my favorite shirts while in Green Lake, WI.) and asked him why the #$%& this was happening after he replaced the manifolds. He was puzzled as much as I was. I just took the RWP off and cleaned all the surfaces and put a new impeller, and gasket in even though the impeller was less than a year old and looked fine. I didn't see any air running through the strainer and I took the strainer apart to make sure it was clean.

So I was searching CCF tonight trying to find some clue to what is causing this and I came across this old thread. This part of JR VIC's post made the light bulb in my head go on.

"because if you add the OJ Dripless shaft seal PCM and OJ recommend pulling water to run to the shaft seal off the port side of the engine because there is more water flowing to that side than the starboard side."

Should the hose for the dripless seal tap into the hose that runs from the thermostat housing to the port side manifold instead of right after the RWP where the Brustuckian mechanic installed it?

I am going to go to Home Depot in the morning and pick up a 1" plastic coupler to attach the hoses together where the "T" for the OJ seal is now and try moving the water supply for the OJ seal to the hose before the port side manifold. This makes sense since the port side manifold seems to have plenty of water flow. This is only temporary, if this fixes the water flow I will replace the hoses.

I hope I have figured this out.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2007 at 9:09am
this again would be a great spot for a digital laser thermometer, if the heat is being created by wrong gaskets it will be much hotter in that spot. you can finf them for around 50 bucks nowadays, i paid 119 bucks 3 years ago. I have used it a thousand times. It helps me isolate many problems such as taking temps on the exhaust manifolds at the ports, if there's a problem that cylinder will run much cooler
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote melty_1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2007 at 4:53am
JR_VIC -

I have the exact opposite on my PCM 351. Less water and hotter riser on portside. (my raw water pump is on starboard)

Are you sure your info is correct? (Not suggesting it's wrong...just researching some similar problems I'm having).

Thanks,
Sheri

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote behindpropeller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2007 at 5:41pm
Nothing has been changed all original. Ill check on a few friends and see what they are like.

TIm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote woodyelc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2007 at 2:50pm
DID ANYBODY CHANGE THE RISER GASKETS? IF THE GASKETS WERE PUT IN BACKWARDS THEY COULD CAUSE THE SAME PROBLEM.
woodyelc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 9360SAN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2007 at 12:08pm
My 01SAN has the same problem,I changed the circular pump,raw water pump,a pair manifold and riser,the T-state,all new hose,new oil cooler,cleaned the water passage of the v-drive, cleaned the heat exchanger,the problem still exist! If I connect garden hose to instead the raw water pump,both manifold become cool, so my conclusion is the flow volume of the raw water pump not enough.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2007 at 9:13am
Look at your plumbing of the raw water pump on how it supplies constant flow to cool the exhaust. Is the connection closer to one side? When the thermostat opens, the hot water is going to be pushed to one side more than the other.
Tim D
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2007 at 7:24am
Jake, you ever hear of KC marine up there in Washington? the guys name is Kirk, his shop is in Bellingham
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2007 at 12:50am
I've had that problem when I Sh#@ an impeller. The little rubber pieces get stuck in the smaller hoses and block the water going into the manifold resulting in one a little warmer than the other.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JR_VIC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2007 at 7:59pm
I had the same issue on my 92 SNCB with a 351W. After I changed to Hi Teks I noticed that the starboard side is almost 40 degrees warmer than the port side. I called Ski DIM and they confirmed directly from PCM that the Starboard side will run hotter than the port side but I got no answer as to exactly how much hotter it will run. They backed this up because if you add the OJ Dripless shaft seal PCM and OJ recommend pulling water off to run to the shaft seal off the port side of the engine because there is more water flowing to that side than the starboard side. Again, I don't know how temp variation is acceptable but this information may help in knowing that some difference is normal.

Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote behindpropeller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2007 at 5:51pm
Hollywood-

I pull the plugs every year and run it to clean out the manifold. Once it is clean I run the anti freeze through it using the engine pump.

Nutty-

I did do exactly what you said, thought I had said that in my post.

Tim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2007 at 4:51pm
I believe, and have heard, that this is normal to some extent.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2007 at 4:23pm
When you winterize do you remove the rear drain plugs or just run A/F through the block from a bucket?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nuttyskier2002 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2007 at 4:06pm
Tim, the circulation pump has nothing to do with directing the water to one manifold or the other. The water flow will follow the path of the least resistance. Under normal conditions resistance should be equal on both sides. Remove the hose from the side that is overheating and let it run into a bucket. Run the the engine and check flow. If flow is good you have blockage in the manifold.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote behindpropeller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2007 at 3:54pm
On my 86 2001 I have noticed that one exhaust manifold is always hotter than the other one. Is this a sign that my circulation pump needs to be replaced?

I can hold my hand on one side, and the other side is too hot to hold my hand on. I checked the hose coming out of the thermostat housing and there is no blockage there.

Tim
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