One manifold is hotter than the other...
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=6909
Printed Date: May-23-2024 at 7:55am
Topic: One manifold is hotter than the other...
Posted By: behindpropeller
Subject: One manifold is hotter than the other...
Date Posted: June-01-2007 at 3:54pm
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On my 86 2001 I have noticed that one exhaust manifold is always hotter than the other one. Is this a sign that my circulation pump needs to be replaced?
I can hold my hand on one side, and the other side is too hot to hold my hand on. I checked the hose coming out of the thermostat housing and there is no blockage there. Tim |
Replies:
Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: June-01-2007 at 4:06pm
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Tim, the circulation pump has nothing to do with directing the water to one manifold or the other. The water flow will follow the path of the least resistance. Under normal conditions resistance should be equal on both sides. Remove the hose from the side that is overheating and let it run into a bucket. Run the the engine and check flow. If flow is good you have blockage in the manifold. ------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier Former boats: 88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II 59 Chris Craft Capri (woody) |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: June-01-2007 at 4:23pm
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When you winterize do you remove the rear drain plugs or just run A/F through the block from a bucket? ------------- |
Posted By: M3Fan
Date Posted: June-01-2007 at 4:51pm
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I believe, and have heard, that this is normal to some extent. ------------- 2000 SN GT40 w/99 Graphics/Gel 2016 SN 200 OB 5.3L DI https://forum.fifteenoff.com |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: June-01-2007 at 5:51pm
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Hollywood-
I pull the plugs every year and run it to clean out the manifold. Once it is clean I run the anti freeze through it using the engine pump. Nutty- I did do exactly what you said, thought I had said that in my post. Tim |
Posted By: JR_VIC
Date Posted: June-01-2007 at 7:59pm
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I had the same issue on my 92 SNCB with a 351W. After I changed to Hi Teks I noticed that the starboard side is almost 40 degrees warmer than the port side. I called Ski DIM and they confirmed directly from PCM that the Starboard side will run hotter than the port side but I got no answer as to exactly how much hotter it will run. They backed this up because if you add the OJ Dripless shaft seal PCM and OJ recommend pulling water off to run to the shaft seal off the port side of the engine because there is more water flowing to that side than the starboard side. Again, I don't know how temp variation is acceptable but this information may help in knowing that some difference is normal.
Thanks! ------------- "That's not a Snow Cone that's my Ring!" |
Posted By: Jake
Date Posted: June-02-2007 at 12:50am
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I've had that problem when I Sh#@ an impeller. The little rubber pieces get stuck in the smaller hoses and block the water going into the manifold resulting in one a little warmer than the other. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1931&sort=&pagenum=2&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - My 79 Nautique |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: June-02-2007 at 7:24am
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Jake, you ever hear of KC marine up there in Washington? the guys name is Kirk, his shop is in Bellingham ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: June-02-2007 at 9:13am
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Look at your plumbing of the raw water pump on how it supplies constant flow to cool the exhaust. Is the connection closer to one side? When the thermostat opens, the hot water is going to be pushed to one side more than the other. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: 9360SAN
Date Posted: June-02-2007 at 12:08pm
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My 01SAN has the same problem,I changed the circular pump,raw water pump,a pair manifold and riser,the T-state,all new hose,new oil cooler,cleaned the water passage of the v-drive, cleaned the heat exchanger,the problem still exist! If I connect garden hose to instead the raw water pump,both manifold become cool, so my conclusion is the flow volume of the raw water pump not enough.
------------- Go on wakeboard |
Posted By: woodyelc
Date Posted: June-02-2007 at 2:50pm
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DID ANYBODY CHANGE THE RISER GASKETS? IF THE GASKETS WERE PUT IN BACKWARDS THEY COULD CAUSE THE SAME PROBLEM. ------------- woodyelc |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: June-03-2007 at 5:41pm
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Nothing has been changed all original. Ill check on a few friends and see what they are like.
TIm |
Posted By: melty_1
Date Posted: July-11-2007 at 4:53am
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JR_VIC -
I have the exact opposite on my PCM 351. Less water and hotter riser on portside. (my raw water pump is on starboard) Are you sure your info is correct? (Not suggesting it's wrong...just researching some similar problems I'm having). Thanks, Sheri |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: July-11-2007 at 9:09am
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this again would be a great spot for a digital laser thermometer, if the heat is being created by wrong gaskets it will be much hotter in that spot. you can finf them for around 50 bucks nowadays, i paid 119 bucks 3 years ago. I have used it a thousand times. It helps me isolate many problems such as taking temps on the exhaust manifolds at the ports, if there's a problem that cylinder will run much cooler ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: August-01-2009 at 4:19am
I pulled this old thread up tonight while searching for ideas on why my starboard side manifold has been running hot after a certain marine mechanic and inboard transmission specialist from Brunstucky replaced my manifolds which both had cracks in them, installed an OJ dripless seal, and rebuilt my trannny which was leaking pretty badly and was making clunking noises when put into gear. While the transmission is now smooth as silk, the starboard manifold is getting really hot. So, I called this Brunstuckian, (who also stole one of my favorite shirts while in Green Lake, WI.) and asked him why the #$%& this was happening after he replaced the manifolds. He was puzzled as much as I was. I just took the RWP off and cleaned all the surfaces and put a new impeller, and gasket in even though the impeller was less than a year old and looked fine. I didn't see any air running through the strainer and I took the strainer apart to make sure it was clean. So I was searching CCF tonight trying to find some clue to what is causing this and I came across this old thread. This part of JR VIC's post made the light bulb in my head go on. "because if you add the OJ Dripless shaft seal PCM and OJ recommend pulling water to run to the shaft seal off the port side of the engine because there is more water flowing to that side than the starboard side." Should the hose for the dripless seal tap into the hose that runs from the thermostat housing to the port side manifold instead of right after the RWP where the Brustuckian mechanic installed it? I am going to go to Home Depot in the morning and pick up a 1" plastic coupler to attach the hoses together where the "T" for the OJ seal is now and try moving the water supply for the OJ seal to the hose before the port side manifold. This makes sense since the port side manifold seems to have plenty of water flow. This is only temporary, if this fixes the water flow I will replace the hoses. I hope I have figured this out. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique |
JR_VIC wrote:Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-01-2009 at 11:02am
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with the perko hooked up and a pressurized hose will the pump sound like it cavitates? i listened on the phone as Randy ran the boat and it sounded like the pump was jerking, up at GL also the top right hose going to the port manifold was also pulsating. above sounds logical, we did pull the hose to the starboard and it seemed like it did have plenty of flow....pretty baffled, but Ive always plummed them on the hose after the RWP,. when i open a package the first thing to go in the garbage are the directions...good day to learn something...the hoses are whats baffling me on why the are pulsating because we cant see any air in the clear line from the dripless ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: August-02-2009 at 2:58pm
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I moved the clear hose to the dripless seal from after the RWP to before the port side manifold and it didn't seem to make much of a difference. The starboard side is still a lot hotter than the port side. I didn't run it hard for very long since the weather started to turn bad, but I could keep my hand on the port side comfortably but the starboard side got hot enough to where I could still touch it but wouldn't want to leave my hand on it for very long.
The sound that Eric mentioned above went away after I loosened the belt on the RWP. I think the belt was too tight and that was what was causing the sound we heard. I have no idea what is causing this. Hey Tim, what did you do to fix this problem two years ago??? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-02-2009 at 3:17pm
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I wonder if a restricted fitting to the port side would create more flow to the starboard? this may even things out a bit, we could use some temp readings, when a transmission hits 150 degrees i can hold my hand on it for about 5 seconds, at 180 degrees about 2 seconds. i use a digital thermometer for accuarte readings. Is there anyone with these common temps? we have gathered that the Starboard generally runs hotter than the port, but how hot is hot? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: August-02-2009 at 3:38pm
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Harbor freight has a laser thermometer for $26.99. I could pick one up. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: August-02-2009 at 3:43pm
I never could find the reason...for all I know it has been like that since it left the factory. FYI... My dripless packing water lube comes out of the "J" just below the waterpump. Tim ------------- |
Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: August-02-2009 at 3:59pm
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I think I may try removing the Perko flush unit and see if that may be restricting the water flow. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-02-2009 at 4:17pm
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just for the hell of it randy, try to find a way to restrict the hose going to the port manifold, maybe wrap it with electrical tape and squeeze it partially with vice grips but not closing it, while doing this take some temp readings. the water has to go somewhere and as said earlier it will follow its easiest path, but by restricting the port hose it will increase the volume of water to the starboard side, hopefully ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-02-2009 at 4:27pm
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Randy, another thought, there really is not any guidelines on manifolds, old manifolds do get restricted and the water sticks around longer to transfer heat, on fresh clean manifolds the water is barely restricted and flys through these manifolds unabling them to transfer heat. temp readings will help to determine what is correct and what isnt, they are exhaust manifolds and typically are the hottest part of the engine, they are cast iron and the same as on cars and cars will see 700 degree temps. are we chasing our tail here? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: August-02-2009 at 4:44pm
Maybe. This could be normal. I have been accused of being a little over worried about things from time to time.  But they are getting hot enough to make a burning smell after they get heated up. I just don't want to cause any damage. I will remove the Perko flush and get a thermometer and see where we are at. work back from there and install the Perko again see if it makes a difference. If the weather holds up I'll take it to the lake and run around and get some temp readings.------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: August-03-2009 at 6:15pm
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I wasn't able to get a laser thermometer. I went to two different Harbor Freight stores and they were both sold out of them. Must be a good deal, I got a raincheck and they said they would call me when they come in.
I took the boat out last night but got out a little late to really run it hard. Your only aloud to run fast until 8pm. I took a couple laps and it seems the same with the Perko flush removed. I could leave my hand on the port side manifold all day but the starboard side I wouldn't want to leave my hand on for more than a few seconds. Running it at idle seems to cool the starboard side down to about the same temp as the port side after a half hour or so. I did notice a little bit of air bubbles running through the clear line to the OJ seal now that it is on the hose going to the port side manifold. No air bubbles in the strainer cup. Maybe it is pulling some air through the pump? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: August-12-2009 at 11:32pm
I was going to remove the muffler tonight to look at the hose from the riser to the muffler. I think this hose on the starboard side may be coming apart on the inside. It is a lot softer than the hose on the port side. My thinking is that it may be unraveling on the inside and causing a restriction of the water flow through the manifold. 
Once I got started I realized that the only way to remove the muffler is to remove the risers off the manifolds. I think once I separate the risers from the manifolds I will have to replace the gaskets. Is this correct??? I already ordered the hose, but they sent me the wire reinforced hose instead of the stuff without wire like what is on there now and what I told them I wanted when I ordered it. I was hoping I may be able to score some hose locally and just send this back for a refund. But I'm not sure if I will need new riser gaskets as well to get the job done. I'm hoping to be able to get this sorted out by the weekend, It's supposed to be a beautiful weekend and I was really hoping we would be able to get out on the lake. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-12-2009 at 11:50pm
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Randy - I assume you have the intertaflow. It took two of us, but we were able to wiggle it enough to remove the muffler w/o removing the risers. Loosen the clamps well & use a screwdriver to break the seal of the hoses to the risers.
Hope it is your hose, you must be frustrated. Maybe you should just hacksaw thru the hose, sounds like it is bad anyway. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: August-13-2009 at 12:22am
I am frustrated. 
I do have the Invertaflow. I may give that a try if I can find some non-wired hose locally. I don't think I want to try that with this wired hose. I was going to replace both sides while I had it apart, but maybe it will be easier to just replace the one side.? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: August-13-2009 at 1:46am
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Let me check the '93 sport here before you tear anything apart.
I personally do not think you have a problem. ------------- |
Posted By: lewy2001
Date Posted: August-13-2009 at 10:24am
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Randy do you still have that pulsing in the water hoses. I think that is a sign that there is air in the system.
It could possibly be a restriction in the invertaflow or exhaust hose on that side. When I was doing the alignment on mine last year I removed the muffler to get at the mounts easier and found that the heat from exhaust had eroded the resin at the muffler inlet and pieces of matt were restricting flow a bit. From memory at GL when Eric was investigating the problem. The hose on the riser on that side felt funky if the heat has damaged the hose it also may have caused similar probs on muffler inlet. I had a great time at GL with you guys thanks for taking Jo and I out in your boat. We were reminiscing our US trip the other day and had a big laugh about teaching the Ohio crew how to cuss in Aussie slang. I still don't think quinner knows what a poofter is 
------------- If you're going through hell, keep going http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2999" rel="nofollow - 89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-13-2009 at 12:38pm
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you know im sitting here thinking, on one of the sides i had to re-glass one of the three inch inlets because alot was missing so the hose would fit snug, maybe just maybe the old pieces are in the invertaflow.
I spun that thing around like a 20 year old and nothing fell out. Randy, time to run some straights but then again, how hot is it getting? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: August-13-2009 at 12:53pm
Randy, while you have it apart, you might want to disinfect that muffler! No need to pull the risers to get the invertaflow off, if thats what you choose to do. ------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-13-2009 at 4:09pm
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the hose was pulsating going to the port side, may want to check out further or buy the rebuild kit that includes the shaft seal ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: August-13-2009 at 4:18pm
I talked to Vince at DIM last week, he told me I should be able to keep my hand on both manifolds without risking a burn. He said the starboard side will usually run a little hotter than the port side but neither side should cause a burn. If I left my hand on the starboard side too long after running it I would get burned. It's HOT! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: August-13-2009 at 4:46pm
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I am not getting any pulsating on the hoses anymore.
When I disconnected the hose from the transmission cooler last night all the water that was in the hose fell out the intake as soon as I pulled the hose. if there was a leak, wouldn't the water be leaking out while it sat and not create this vacuum that holds the water in the hoses? Either way, I really think this exhaust hose between the starboard riser and the invertaflo needs to be replaced. The port side hose is hard all the way around and this hose is really soft in spots. I can push on it with my pinky finger and it gives. I think I am going to try to take the invertaflow off tonight and take a look at it even if I have to out it back together with the wired hose. If the pump was pulling air I think I would be seeing a lot of bubbles going through the clear hose running to the OJ seal. I discussed this with Vice also and he seemed to think the pump was probably fine. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: C-Bass
Date Posted: August-13-2009 at 5:17pm
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I'm with Eric on the "chasing our tail" bit. I don't know how much attention this really deserves. According to my temp gage, my engine runs around 140°, however, I couldn't leave my hand on either riser for more than 4-5 seconds without some serious discomfort. Do I think I have an issue...absolutely not. I'm sure the manifolds/risers don't flow water as efficiently as they did when they were new, but that doesn't mean they're bad. I don't know what the melting point is of the exhaust hose/inline mufflers, but I doubt they're in any danger. Maybe I'm in for a big surprise one day, but I'm not about to throw on $550 worth on new manifolds & risers to so I can have fun putting my hand on the risers all evening. ------------- Craig 67 SN 73 SN http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=6103" rel="nofollow - 99 Sport 85SN |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-13-2009 at 7:44pm
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Randy - another idea to help pinpoint this - when you have the invertaflow off, run the garden hose into the hose going to the thermostat (take it off RWP output port). Then you can see how even the flow is from L-R. At least it would satisfy your curiosity about the adequacy of the plumbing. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: August-13-2009 at 8:07pm
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The manifolds on my boat used to get very hot. I think it was due to the scale inside the ports. My solution was bead blasting and repainting. The mating surfaces needed a lot of attention as well; there was very little of the original gaskets in place and because of rust pitting they couldn't have been routing water properly...even though they didn't leak on the outside.
They other thing this thread makes me think of is the impeller pieces that I found trapped in the smaller cooling ports between the head and block when I rebuilt it. No kidding...a small handful! Hope you get it worked out, and I wouldn't want to hold my hand on a riser after a hard run. They do cool off quickly though. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-13-2009 at 8:20pm
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I am missing a glove, just one, its white with glitter on it, maybe down in the hose?
Randy, take the hoses off at the invertaflow and fire the boat and make sure the water is not restricted in the risers, make sure there is nice flow from both hoses. and then look to the invertaflow the risers were pretty coroded and i had to take a good cut on the gasket surface, moreso on one than the other???? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: August-14-2009 at 4:08am
I wrestled the invertaflow off of the outlet hose and the starboard side, it is still connected to the port side. I noticed that the inlet on the starboard side of the invertaflow was cracked and collapsing. this explains why I have had a drip at the inlet on the invertaflow since I got it back from Eric. I think what happened is when the hose clamps were tightened it collapsed the somewhat thin fiberglass material that the invertaflow is made out of. when I noticed it leaking I tried to tighten it even more and it was probably just crushing under the hose. When I reached my hand up inside the hose I can feel a lot of crud or some sort of maybe bubbling of the inside of the hose. I don't know if this is restricting the water flow enough to cause this side to heat up but I think I am going to try to replace the hose anyway with the wire reinforced hose that I already have. I couldn't get the old hose to slide off of the riser and I think I'm going to have to cut it off with a hack saw. I think I will probably just replace both sides while I have it off. I repaired the crack in the inlet with JB weld. I found a bottle to stick in the inlet to hold the round shape while I repaired the outside with the JB weld. I'll have to finish it up tomorrow night after the JB cures.
------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-14-2009 at 10:29am
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you need to fire it up at this point and see what kinda flow you get from that hose, look down inside the IF, for any restrictions. that area that you have JB welded is the area where i took a piece of pvc as a form and wrapped glass around it to create a surface for the hose. all of that was missing when i removed the hoses...it had to go somewhere at one point. that 3" hose is not going to create the restriction, the bubbles you are feeling is probably from the hose heating up.
Something caused that inlet pipe to break down and corode away, I would really fire the boat and compare the flow side to side, remember the risers were not replaced and judging by the flow when you remove the hose from the manifold, its not a flow problem. I really think the risers are restricted ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: August-14-2009 at 3:10pm
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Eric I thought I would use snobsessed's method of running a garden hose into the thermostat housing and check the flow of water out of the manifolds that way. I'm thinking it may make a hell of a mess firing it up with the muffler removed...? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: August-14-2009 at 5:49pm
Super loud anyway Randy. I washed more towels working on my boat. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-14-2009 at 10:33pm
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Put a bucket under each & catch both, then you can compare easily.
Guys, isn't there a specific orientation to the riser gasket? Would having it backwards restrict the flow? Another possibility, however remote . . . ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: August-15-2009 at 4:49am
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The JB weld fix seems to have worked great. The side that needed fixing looks like the side Eric didn't fix, the side that he fixed was the side that was running cool. I can't believe how thin the fiberglass is on these invertafow's.
The hoses went on a lot easier than I thought they would. I soaked them in some hot soapy water before I started and used a spray bottle with soapy water to soak down the risers and inlets. No problems with the wired hose. I ran the garden hose to the hose before the thermostat housing and put buckets under the new hoses and the water collected seemed to be pretty close to equal. I think the pictures tell the rest of the story. Inside of the hose on the side that was overheating 
Another shot of the inside of the hose on the hot side.
Hose from the side that was running cool. 
New hoses installed 
I think the hoses are bubbled up on the inside from when the previous owner overheated the engine when he forgot to put the strainer cup back on... My theory now is that this badly damaged hose combined with the restriction at the inlet on the invertaflow caused by the collapsing fiberglass was causing enough restriction that the water chose the path of least resistance and was going through the manifold on the somewhat good side and avoiding the bad side. I will test it out in the driveway tomorrow morning and take it to the lake and give it a good test run if everything looks good. I hope this is was what was causing the problem. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-15-2009 at 11:39am
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I think we burned that hose on the GL run that day, thats still not enough of a restriction, keep looking,
your working backwards, the bucket method under the risers would've helped to eliminate if the risers are the problem, we know they have good flow going in with the hose dis-connected, if the risers are restricted it will slow the flow ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: August-15-2009 at 5:12pm
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Eric, I'm pretty sure that these hoses have been like this since I got the boat.
I ran it in the driveway for about 20 minutes at idle with the garden hose hooked up. It seems to be staying a lot cooler now. I won't know for sure until I water test it this afternoon but I'm feeling pretty confident that I found the problem. I would say that the 3 1/2" hose was reduced to about a 2" - 2 1/2" hose the with the way it was all bubbled up and corroded inside. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: August-16-2009 at 12:43am
The water test went good, both sides are running at about the same temperature the port side is slightly hotter than the starboard side but things seem to be a lot better.  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-16-2009 at 11:31am
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was it always running hot? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Randy_in_Ohio
Date Posted: August-17-2009 at 3:34pm
Probably... I think the combination of the crushed inlet on the invertaflow combined with the bad piece of hose combined with the new unrestricted manifolds made the problem worse for the starboard side. I did notice that the port side now runs a bit warmer than it did when the starboard side was getting too hot but that makes sense since the water is not favoring the port side and instead is flowing more equal to both sides. You have to remember that after the manifolds those hoses are carrying both water and exhaust gases. Even though the restriction in that hose may not have been enough to restrict the flow of water coming from a 1" feed hose, combined with the exhaust gas, I think it was creating enough back pressure to make the water favor the other side. That bad hose was reducing the inside diameter to about 2" in the center of that hose. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1602&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995" rel="nofollow - 1993 Sport Nautique |