New Carburetor

I may try to bend the hard tube, it is new and don't want to throw it out.    Second choice would be hvac copper tube, Got to dig out my flair tool and get a new tube bender.   Last will be rubber hose.

shierh wrote: I may try to bend the hard tube, it is new and don't want to throw it out.    Second choice would be hvac copper tube, Got to dig out my flair tool and get a new tube bender.   Last will be rubber hose.

Steve,
Here's a link to the pre made hard line. Scott's took me to Overtons search page and all they sell are tubes!!    I 'd stick with the pre made since it's steel. I don't know if the copper would meet the regs. I'm sure Ken would know!

BTW, how are you at making double flares? The line is inverted double flared.

And where might we find the aforementioned guide?

You could go to a link earlier in this thread that takes you to a thread with the link or you could click right about here

I have brass on my boat. I think it came directly from PCM a few years back.

shierh wrote: The off the shelf tube isn't going to be made for the wedge, original tube is designed to hook up to a carb that is angled back, move it level and its off by 12degrees.

Steve,
You missed it:

8122pbrainard wrote: I did have to replace my hard line to the carb on the 302. I bought the PCM and did have to do some slight re bending at the carb since the PO put a wedge spacer under it.

Again, how's your double flaring skills?

scootdogydog wrote: fuel line I updated this so Pete can add this along with tubes to his cart.

Scott, I like this one, looks well made and will take care of the bending issues plus no need for barb fittings.    

Double flair only has one more step outside of a single, whats hard about that especially on copper.   The sierra part doesn't appear to be a double flair. Isnt the double for higher pressure?   got to look it up I guess.

shierh wrote: Double flair only has one more step outside of a single, whats hard about that especially on copper.   The sierra part doesn't appear to be a double flair. Isnt the double for higher pressure?   got to look it up I guess.

Good point on not being hard to do. Just need the correct tool. Yes on the dbl flare for high pressure. Another type uses a single flare but has a "flared sleeve" that mates up with the flared tube. We use that type on the race car a lot because you can tighten and loosen multiple times with out affecting the integrity of the tube flare.   NHRA and other sanctioning bodies allow the use of aluminum fuel lines but prohibits copper.   Don't know bout USCG. Seems to me that I read somewhere that the USCG rules only apply to waters that they govern. Different can of worms.

shierh wrote: Need to use approved stuff for the ins company. if anything happens and you have a part that isn't approved then an exclusion in the policy will likely bounce your claim.   If its USCG approved then it is insurance company approved. I am not aware of a body of water in the US and territorial waters that are not under USCG authority.   They are the feds, trump all local and state.

Probably a smart idea to follow their regs anyway, then you are covered.

Little off topic:    Our Funny Car inlet fuel line from the tank to the pump is Aluminum 3" diameter!!   15 gallons in 5 seconds

Eric:

If the engine runs well -- except for hole-shot -- I would look at accelerator pump and engine timing. What is your current degrees of advance at idle?

With the accelerator pump, the instant that the throttle linkage moves, the accelerator pump must start to engage. No delay. Also, there are different cam profiles that will modify how the accelerator pump engages: duration, volume, timing, etc:. You may want to watch the video below for some good tips.

VIDEO LINK

JQ