GT40 fuel pumps inoperative

How many hours are on the boat now?

Other thread

A 2000 model GT40 will have slightly different wiring based around the keypad and gateway box. The wiring loom to the engine should be almost the same. If the pumps do not run when you ground the STO then you have no power to your pumps. The EEC relay actually activates the fuel pump relay. Check voltages at the EEC relay terminal 87. They do have 5 pins but only 4 pins are used. You may need to make up 4 little pigtail leads for the relay so you can get at the terminals for testing. I would firstly check that all the breakers on the back of engine have 12Volts on both sides of breaker and then go onto the EEC relay from there.

there are less than 200 hours on the boat. The hour meter was working when I first bought the boat and it had 46 hours. I installed a PPass on it at the time and set the hours to 46. It now has something less than 200 hours. For real.

David I doubt that you have the 50 amp in line fuse. If you did it would be in the battery box. Not sure what year they were phased out but 2000 would be pretty close.



Have you checked the voltage at the breakers on rear of engine?

6oA is main power 15A is fuel pump power and 12.5A is EEC power

The little big tail wires are just short wires about 6" with male and female spade connectors on them so you can measure all the voltages with the relays in circuit.

Want to thank everyone and give a summary of what I found.

Turns out there were three different problems and I am not sure which was the original problem but I think it was the failure of the LP pump. I also had lanyard switch and HP pump issues.

I did all the voltage testing suggested by lewy2001 (thank you) and found no problems with relays, etc. I tinned some 20 gauge wire to insert into the power connector at the LP pump so I could test the voltage there and found 12V. So I replaced the LP pump and the new LP pump would run but boat still not start. I started to replace the HP pump but found that when I took the FCC canister off, that the wiring connectors were no longer connected.

My first trouble shooting step had been to replace the HP fuel filter. Apparently when replacing the filter, and while twisting the canister back into place, the pump was turning along with the canister and twisted the wiring connectors until they came loose.

I used glycerine to lube the pump so it would not turn in the filter turned within the canister and glycerine on the filter plastic so the filter would not turn. After re-installing the filter the boat started and ran fine.

I then put my safety lanyard switch back in. The boat started fine so I left it. Next day, the boat would not start so I bypassed the lanyard switch again and it starts fine again. So, sometime I developed an intermittent problem with the switch.

thank you to everyone who took the time to respond!

I think one difference Pete is that a ford vehicle has only one pump,it's in the tank keeping cool and pushing. Don't think for one second that they were immune from fuel issues either. The mechanic at work went thru a lot of fuel pumps on Fords and Chevy's too. He showed us that by turning on the key and hitting the bottom of the fuel tank you could get it going again. It seems the motor would start to fail by loosing a segment. If it would stop on that dead segment,it would not go again when you turned the key back on. One thing I think that helps on our 2 boats is the engine compartment being so large and the venting on either side of it that DD boats don't have

I added the fix to the diagnosis thread:
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25584&PID=503419񺹻