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'93 Ski Nautique 351 PCM Pro Tech Overheating

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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-14-2012 at 8:19am
Originally posted by tsassman tsassman wrote:

By the way if indeed a piece of an impeller is restricting a passage.

Tim,
You mechanic did a RWP flow check and it was good so I would say you can rule out impeller pieces blocking passages.

Shoot the area around the temp gauge sender with a IR heat gun and make sure it's not a gauge sender issue. Has all the gauge wiring been checked for loose and or corroded connections?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-14-2012 at 3:21am
Originally posted by tsassman tsassman wrote:

Thanks, I'll put it on my list of things I might try. Still open for more suggestions if anyone has any. By the way if indeed a piece of an impeller is restricting a passage. What would be the solution there? Has anyone had any experience with that?
You've got to find it and dig it out.... Did your shop check timing? Just a thought, but an out of time engine will run hot,as will an overly lean engine.   What did your plugs look like? These may not be even close to the issue, but I wanted to think a little outside of the box from where the others have gone....   On a side note, I have heard that Coke is a great cooling system cleaner, I've always wondered if it works, but never had a vehicle I was willing to try it on
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SN206 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-14-2012 at 2:04am
Originally posted by tsassman tsassman wrote:

As far as I know it has never seen salt or even brackish water. Don’t know how may owners it has had.



Plenty of brackish water in North Texas.
...those who have fallen and those who will.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsassman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-14-2012 at 1:56am
Would you suggest that I change the water pump out first to rule out that as the issue. If it isn't not much lost there right.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsassman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-14-2012 at 1:53am
Thanks, I'll put it on my list of things I might try. Still open for more suggestions if anyone has any. By the way if indeed a piece of an impeller is restricting a passage. What would be the solution there? Has anyone had any experience with that?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-14-2012 at 1:38am
OK, I'll give it a shot. Mind you I haven't done this myself!

Pull out the thermostat. Remove the pump drive belts. Drain the block, both sides. Pour your solution in. Some science needs to be done on the solution, commercial boiler lime cleaner? Maybe ask a radiator shop? Maybe just 'The Works' toilet cleaner (which is acid). Run the engine for a few minutes at idle. After a soak period, maybe a day, put the thermostat back in, hook the belts up & a raw water supply. Run the engine, catching the rusty crud coming out the exhaust, or run it on your neighbor's driveway when he isn't home (just kidding Ralph).

This might be hard on the water pump, but your were thinking about changing it anyway.

Keep in mind this may not be the real problem - you could have chunks of an old impellar stuck in a passage somwhere - I can't help you there.

“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsassman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-13-2012 at 9:40pm
Thanks Chris for the constructive suggestion. I am willing to try just about anything to keep from having to pull the engine. I am in no hurry, just want it to be ready to ski with this spring/summer.

Could you give any more detailed instructions on how to do that?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-13-2012 at 9:28pm
You might want to try some lime-away type cleaner (acidic) - pour it in & let it sit for a few days, then flush well. Maybe even idle the engine (belt off) for a couple minutes to heat up that soup.
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-13-2012 at 8:21pm
Originally posted by tsassman tsassman wrote:

Price was so good I went ahead with purchase.

He said the engine might have to be pulled and taken to machine shop to have cooling water passages cleaned out. Sounds expensive!!!! Any thoughts or suggestions on what course of action I should take next?


Bend over.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsassman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-13-2012 at 8:15pm
I purchased a ’93 Ski Nautique (my first boat) a couple of months ago at a real good price. Before purchase we took a test drive and really the only issue was sporadic temperature readings. Boat owner said probably needs a new thermostat or gauge. I have all the original paper work from original owner with the original owner’s manual. Original purchase was in Dallas and I purchased it from a guy in Austin. As far as I know it has never seen salt or even brackish water. Don’t know how may owners it has had.

Took the boat to marine shop for a complete checkup (I noted to have him check the temperature issue) and here is what they have done:

1)     Battery – Check electrolyte level and specific gravity. Inspect case for damage. Inspect cable and connections.
2)     Change engine oil and filter.
3)     Change transmission oil.
4)     Check and adjust engine alignment.
5)     Clean and inspect ignition system.
6)     Check and inspect cooling system, drive belt, and exhaust system.
7)     Check electrical system for loose or dirty connections and damaged wiring.
8)     Clean and inspect flame arrestor and crankcase ventilation system.
9)     Check complete engine assembly.
10)     Replace fuel filter.
11)     Replace raw water impeller.
12)     Checked all hoses and clamps for cracks and leaks.
13)     Checked all temperature sensors.

His notes on the temperature issues after all this was he tested the boat on the lake and it overheated. He then pulled the thermostat and noticed a large amount of rust in the thermostat housing. He pulled the thermostat, cleaned out the housing and installed a new 160F thermostat. Boat was them retested with the same result – overheating getting close to 200F.

Technician then performed a raw water pump capacity test the result showing proper performance (5 gallons flowed in 15 seconds @ 3000 RPM’s) Circulation pump was now in question but mechanic contacted PCM support technician (Travis Snyder) to discuss issues. Both seem to think that the circulation pump could be weak but due to the manifolds and risers not overheating this is not the main issue. PCM believes that due to the rust issue at the thermostat and water jackets proper flow has been compromised. New circulation pump could possibly fix the issue, but may not be able to perform and better than a weak circulation pump to possible blockage in cooling water passages.

He said the engine might have to be pulled and taken to machine shop to have cooling water passages cleaned out. Sounds expensive!!!! Any thoughts or suggestions on what course of action I should take next?
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