My new 2001 and my first!

JoeinNY wrote: tim see if you can remember to check on that some time for historical purposes PCM still refers to it as a 1.23 but mine is also stamped 1.26

Just for you, Joe! Not the greatest pic, but still legible:

Uk
if I´m not wrong all pcm tranny are made in italy, at least i remember my 1992 had the 1.23 tranny and was made in italy...

Isnt the PCM a ZF-Hurth transmision?

they are a Hurth transmission, ZF purchased Hurth a few years back. I have no understanding why they are anything other than a 1.23, i started rebuilding them a good 10 years ago, and have been through at least 70 of them. the only difference I see now are the back ends. they do look as if ribbing was added...one good thing is one of the big aftermarket companies will start making seal and gasket kits and clutch kits all made here in the USA, and possibly the forward drum

also looking at the pic, they added a bearing cap to the top gear, maybe just maybe because i havnt busted into one of the newer ones, they may have re-designed the gears also and the ratio changed a touch, the older gears would lose thier hard facing and start to make noise

I must admit I'm a big fan of this trannies.
It seems they've been improving them all this years.

the problem with them is that they are pretty pricey to rebuild, but all in all not to bad of a trans, i didnt like them in the beginning, but have grown too

they are a tranny that works, and it works well, but when they break they break, most of the ones I see are abused transmissions, water in them, low oil and to the likes...if you take care of them they will provide years of service, change oil regularly, align them, wait until your at an idle and the prop has stopped turning (unless an emergency) things of that nature....it doesnt hurt to make a habit of checking the oil level on every outing

Joey,

Critter was over here and we tried to dry fit the engine but the lift couldn't get the engine high enough.

We did take a look at the new mounts I got but the only thing the mounts are going to do is keep the engine at the same height and angle but move the engine mounts more towards the back of the transmision which will make the mounts farther apart. The distance of the mounts are currently at the same place as the old engine so that is not the issue.

The new ones you told me to get won't change the angle of the engine or the height at which it sits. Any ideas?

Thanks!

I was going to have the Boat Dr do my stringer and floor rebuild but a 14 hour drive for me right now is tough to handle. I have a lot going on and feel a little overwhelmed right now.

I just got a quote from Pamlico Boat and Fiberglass Repair. They look like they do great work. I have gotten several referal numbers from them of past clients. The quote they gave me for the stringers and floor repair are really good numbers. I have a few concerns that I wanted to throw by you guys.

They want to use polyester resin not epoxy. He says about a year ago he repaired a speed boat with polyester that goes VERY fast and takes a beating and it is holding up well. We got into that conversation because I read polyester is not as strong as epoxy. He disagreed.

He said the way he foams the boat is he lays the floor and cuts holes in it and then pours the foam and then patches the holes with glass. He also wants to screw the floor to the stringers. Here is what he typed out for me.

Any thoughts?

1.      Repair/ replace stringers
A. Remove stringers, grind glass on hull, and replace wood stringers. Tab new stringers in place making sure of level and square.
B. Glass in stringers using polyester resin. Glass to hull of boat with 24/15 mat then wrap that with 2oz mat. Repeat process with each stringer.
C.     Attach stringer to transom using same process

      2. Replace Floor
A.     Cut out wood for floor using fur wood and fitting it to side of hull making sure cap of boat in straight and inline before glassing in floor.
B.     Hot coat underside, then screw floor to stringers using glass to bond together. Lay down 2oz mat on floor with double mat on seams.
C.     Roll glass to rid air.
D.     Grind floor using 36-grit, and then roll on polyester gel.

3.Repair damage cap
A.     Grind down damage area checking for cracks and glass imperfections
B.     Fill in cracks with glass and block back down level with surface.
C.     Prim with gel to cover porosity and block
D.     Spay final gel on cap and sand and buff in

4. Install cap
A.     Install cap to boat using screws in the top of hull.
B.     Glass in around transom
C.     Replace rub rail

I don't really. Part of the cap was damaged along with a part of the hull.    I emailed him after he sent the work to be done and told him that the cap was bonded to the hull from the repair the last owner did so it couldn't come off anyways.

The previous owners repair is good but it needs some minor cosmetics done before it can be painted.

Luchog wrote: Have you considered going all composite on the hull rebuild? how much expensive would that be?

I spent about 1400 on coosa doing mine, but I also eliminated the foam, as a straight replacement wood for coosa probably about 400 more for the stringers.

Epoxy is stonger and bonds better, much easier to work with, but if your paying someone else that may not be an issue. The expoy is also actually watertight, unlike the polyester, but if you dont keep it in the water or water in it thats less of an issue.

JoeinNY how is the strength of Coosa compared to wood? Is the strength in the material itself or in the glass surrounding it? Would it work well with the polyester? If so these guys have quote a great price so maybe spending a little more on the coosa would be worth it as long as it will interact ok with the polyester.

Luchog wrote: I think that for U$D8500 you could find yourself another 2001 in good shape and save time and efforts. You'd have another spare engine too.

Believe me I thought of that. A guy about 1 hour from me posted a 89 for $6000 but he is unsure of the hours. I am going to go look at it this weekend! But if I get my boat done it will have new fresh stringers and a new floor. Big selling point if I ever go to sell it and one less thing I will have to worry about if I keep the boat for several years!

The other guy above quoted me $5,000 for the floor and stringers. That's why I wanted to get everyone's opinion on the Polyester resin.


Well I finally got the engine in the boat!! WOOT.

I used the mounts Joe said I should use and I don't think the engine is far enough forward. The reason I say that is because with the shorter shaft I don't think there is enough room to get the prop on and the nut. How close is everyone's belts to the inside of the dog house? That would help me a lot to determine if the engine is in the correct position. If I use the old trans mounts the engine would be forward farther but I don't think I could get the engine down any more. The adjustments are about as low as they will let the engine get but the prop does line up! I think I will have to use the longer shaft that came with the 82. Take a look!!












This is with the shorter of the two shafts. Not enough length right? How much distance do I need?

akabulla wrote: They want to use polyester resin not epoxy. He said the way he foams the boat is he lays the floor and cuts holes in it and then pours the foam and then patches the holes with glass. He also wants to screw the floor to the stringers. Any thoughts?

All you need to do is do a search for the tensile strengths of poly and epoxy and you can tell your boat and fiberglass "repair" "expert" he needs to be educated. The big plus for epoxy is it's not hygroscopic like poly is. Do you really want to put the money into the repair and then have the wood get wet again? Yes, it will last for awhile and by then the guy will be gone! He's using poly because it's cheaper!

He's screwing the floor down because of the pathetic bonding characteristics of poly resin to wood.

A ply floor with foamed in place is certainly a method of floor replacement but he's wrong in using pour foam. I prefer to inject.

Is this guy real old????

A well done poly job will endure as much as any other if properly cared.

The rule of thumb around here is more or less 5-7 years for floors and 15-20 for a good stringer job, always talking about a properly cared boat.