Damn rocks

Disregard stringer comment.   There's PLENTY of info on this site.   Reading away...

Thanks for confirming the coil/ignition pairing:)

I hear ignition system and I think "starting", aka the ignition switch. I didn't really understand what a coil did once the boat was started. The answer was probably right in front of my face... but fun thing about all this is learning plenty of new stuff. Now I know a bit more:)

The conversion kit was the Sierra Marine 5299
The coil I put in is a PerTronix 40011 Flame-Thrower 40,000 Volt 1.5 ohm Coil

Hoping this doesn't raise any red flags!

Bummer that I'm "up & running" just in time for the off season, but till some time to go.


Onto the next topic, I've got some soft spots in my floor which I may remove/replace over the winter.   Seems the recommend is if you're replacing the floor, you should replace the stringers.   Would you agree? Seems like a very big job. I'm actually solid with carpentry, but pulling the engine etc fives me some serious pause.   Thoughts? How do you konw if they are "bad".... and I saw someone mentioned saturated foam.   Just how big a job is this?

Update for you Keno.

What I was experiencing (choking back) was the ending somewhat cutting out, on acceleration. Not electrically, but literally the engine feeling like it just wasn't getting what it needed. Air, gas, Elec... I don't konw how to explain it.   You'd push the throttle and it would just choke at anything over 10mph.

That said, Turin out it WAS electrical. When the points were switched out to electronic, the ignition coil was not updated. Replaced the coil and it runs like a complete champ now. I think what was happening was the coil was overheating, so not sending spark to the plugs, which were then not doing their job, and so on.

I realize my description is kinda bunk... but long story... when updating your distributor from points, you gotta update your coil. Lesson learned:)

Okay - 2 weeks gone by, and the transmission was NOT an issue.   Once the cable was adjusted, it is just fine. I'm guessing that the impact of my little prop hit did something to the adjustment... but thats just a guess. Of course, one problem reveals another. Now that I've gotten to take the boat out a few times, I've a reoccurring issue.   Runs GREAT art first.   Then if I stop for a swim etc (which I do with my kids) and restart 30min or so later, it runs, but starts choking itself back at anything over 15mph.   Going to replace the electronic choke on the carb, and noticed that when my points were switched over, they'd not upgraded the Mallroy ignition coil, which I think IS the issue.   Just ordered a flamethrower 1.5... betting this resolves the choke out.   I hope at least!

I'm kinda curious how this turned out after your weekend or 2 have passed by

It seems like a long time back it was mentioned by more than one person to disconnect the cable and shift it locally.

It's hard to figure out if you did or didn't do that but if you did and it wasn't right, then all the cable adjustment in the world won't fix things.

So.............. did you shift it locally and have no problems?

Hey Gary -

Before I take the transmission out, Im giving your cable adjustment more thought. Didn't make sense to me as all was fine "pre-rock", but on further inspection, I found that when in forward at the morse, the bracket on the transmission was about 3/8" from "all the way forward".   Re-adjusted, and tested out of water.   Seems to be working now?!?   Will test in water this weekend, but I'm cautiously optimistic that I may not have to rebuild after all!   I'll let you know.

One more for you... while testing, I noticed the engine was getting VERY hot to touch (my dash gauge wasn't working).   I ordered & will replace the water pump impeller as the exhaust isn't expelling water like it should.   Question for you (or anyone else).. I've read on here that there are two impellers? Where is the second? Again, I'm running a PMC302.


Thank you in advance.

Eric

Now if you use my link and Gary's link together, when Wouter refers to pieces with their reference number in the manual you know just what he's talking about

Teamwork Gary

As long as he's referring to the same manual it'll be good

edamario wrote: Winging it sounds like a bad idea. No, I chatted up a few shops, and am doing with someone who's done many auto transmissions in the past. I've found a schematic,. and will keep digging pre doing the job for sure, but it doesn't look much more difficult than a C4 transmission, but looks can be deceiving. Do you have something to share?;)

Whats wrong with the link I shared ??

You can find later versions of the manual on line also.

One other little thing....................count the number of clutch plates you take out and put the same number back in otherwise it'll be all bound up and constipated

That applies to the forward and also the reverse clutches.

The kit has more plates than you'll need.

Winging it sounds like a bad idea. No, I chatted up a few shops, and am doing with someone who's done many auto transmissions in the past. I've found a schematic,. and will keep digging pre doing the job for sure, but it doesn't look much more difficult than a C4 transmission, but looks can be deceiving.

Do you have something to share?;)

@baitkiller
Part 1, no.
Part 2, hmmm.


@Pete -
I hear you on adjusting the cable, and had done so. When it died in the water, we tossed back the engine cover, disconnected and tried to do it manually at the trans.   N0 go there either.

Appreciate the advice, and will file it away as it's super thorough, but I'm putting money on the rebuild. Kitchen table or not.

KENO wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: Eric, It's always a good idea to ask here first before ordering parts. There are less expensive (30%) alternates for the same. You only think it's the same Pete It's missing some pieces that come in the SkiDim kit, but you can find the same Alto kit that SkiDim sells for around 160 at Ebasicpower A little research will tell you the difference Or buying the less complete one like I once did, also tells you the difference.

So Pete

Did you just blow this off and decide to ignore the error in your ways ?

I'll assume you did, so I'll post a link to the more complete kit that includes the steel and the bronze clutch plates so that all the clutch plates can be replaced.

You should educate yourself on what a banner kit is

For the next guy who might be wondering, here's the link

link

This may be some help- Velvet drive rebuild

Eric,
Are you getting any unusual noises?