OIl/Trans fluid

Quakerstate.

Kids in car: "DaaaaaD - are we there yet?"

Dad: "Not until your Mother figures out where the oil filter exit is!"

Kids: "But didn't you see the sign back there?!?"

I use VR1 because I can easily source it (by the case on sale, I stock up), they publish their ZDDP levels and it's in the range of the weight I want to use. I would consider using 15w40 if they made it, but they don't, so 20w50 it is. Straight 40 is too heavy in the cold temps.

I don't feel like putting diesel oil with no ZDDP documentation in my gasoline engine so Rotella is out. Castrol GTX Diesel 15w40 used to advertise 1300 zinc and 1100 phos but I see it's no longer anywhere on their product data sheet. Lastly, I'm not a synthetic guy so Mobil1 is out. I have not bothered to look into Amsoil, Royal Purple, Brad Penn, etc. The VR1 is doing the job just fine for now.

Cumby wrote: Hollywood wrote: Because Valvoline doesn't make a multi viscosity VR1 40 weight So, just to make sure I'm understanding you, you're saying the brand of oil is more important to you than using the manufactured recommended weight? Not trying to be smart,,,really want to understand why you guys use what you do.

Based on my Correct Craft Operating manual, PCM recommends a straight 40W oil for warm weather operations. The main challenge with this is that there are very few straight 40W oils offered. Other than Shell Rotella T1, I've not been able to locate any straight 40W where I live.

I don't mean to be remedial, but the concept of multi viscosity oils is based on cold vs hot operating temperatures. in a 10W-30 multi viscosity oil, the 10W number is the viscosity index of the oil COLD. the 30 number is the equivalent viscosity index of the oil at 100 degrees C (212 F). This is a viscosity index equivalent, as the higher viscosity is achieved by the use of polymer additives.

A straight 40W oil is pretty thick when cold and somewhat resistant to flowing. Many will argue that cold engine start-up produces much of the metal-to-metal wear because the oil has drained into the oil pan and now the oil pump has to pump cold, thick oil to wear surfaces. The lighter weight oils will flow faster, pump easier and, therefore, protect the wear surfaces sooner.

I operate in spring, summer and fall, so my engine will see start-up temperatures well below 60 degrees F. That is why I use a multi viscosity oil (Royal Purple 20W-50).

I don't think that folks simply disregard PCM's oil recommendation. Based on the availability of straight 40W oil, and that there is simply too much evidence that a quality multi viscosity oil will also provide equal engine protection, many owners and mechanics simply don't bother with the straight 40W.

Just my 2¢

JQ

Cumby wrote: Hollywood wrote: Because Valvoline doesn't make a multi viscosity VR1 40 weight you're saying the brand of oil is more important to you than using the manufactured recommended weight? .

That's not what I'm ***************ing saying.

JPASS wrote:     Wait until you ask about which filter to use...................

LMAO!!!!!!

Hollywood wrote: Because Valvoline doesn't make a multi viscosity VR1 40 weight

I don't think anyone does   

Hollywood wrote: Because Valvoline doesn't make a multi viscosity VR1 40 weight

So, just to make sure I'm understanding you, you're saying the brand of oil is more important to you than using the manufactured recommended weight? Not trying to be smart,,,really want to understand why you guys use what you do.

Because Valvoline doesn't make a multi viscosity VR1 40 weight

For more information than you could ever possibly digest, try:

Bob Is The Oil Guy website. Lots of good info there, but you need to sift through some background noise.

JQ

Orlando76 wrote:

I was going to suggest using the FAQ thread early on!!

Toertel wrote: So whats wrong with calling PCM and follwing their recommendation? .

Neither Ford who actually built the engines nor PCM who is mearly an engine conversion company has tested or have had one of these engines in their hands for something like 15 years. When they did oils were designed for flat tappet engines.. Since these engines were discontinued,the oil specs have changed. Why would they have kept up with oil technology for an out of warrantee past product? They do not even support them for parts,they are in the business of making a profit selling new engines. But take their word as gospel over multiple people who have current experience using current oils in older engines would IMHO false security. I would not call Ford to ask what to use in a model A anymore than I'd call at&t and ask what the best rotary phone is.

Jonny Quest wrote: I use Royal Purple HPS™ – High Performance Street Synthetic Oil in 20W-50 for the engine. JQ

Rob,
Doesn't the work "street" indicate there isn't ZDDP added? Is there any and do you know at what levels?

Most automotice OEM's specify an oil weight and give a brand recomendation...
So whats wrong with calling PCM and follwing their recommendation?
Byt the way, I followed Zach's recommendation which was also Rotella...

Then educate me Peter...please. That's why I joined this forum! I don't want to get in a bunch of debates. Just want to know how to properly care for my boat.

Oh, and I'm a Toyota guy