OIl/Trans fluid
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=36934
Printed Date: May-18-2024 at 2:14am
Topic: OIl/Trans fluid
Posted By: Cumby
Subject: OIl/Trans fluid
Date Posted: August-03-2015 at 6:17pm
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I've been reading some posts on different types of oil and the additive requirements. Can anyone give me a short list of the best oil and weight to use for a 99 GT40. I'm in SC. Also, anything special about the transmission fluid? Is it a best practice to change both when winterizing or is it OK to change them close to the end of the season and then still put some hours on before winterizing? ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Replies:
Posted By: a0128
Date Posted: August-03-2015 at 6:48pm
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For your 1999 GT-40 you will want to use an oil with a high zinc concentration. A ZDDP number of 1400 ppm is best. I use Valvoline Racing Oil 20W50 in my GT-40. I believe the original recommended oil was 40W40. Changing your engine oil and transmission oil every 50 hours is recommended. Someone else will need to chime in on the exact transmission oil to use. Originally it was Dextron II IIRC however I believe that is no longer available. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-03-2015 at 6:52pm
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Dex III is backwards compatible (OK to use). I believe schedule is 100 hrs for tranny. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: Toertel
Date Posted: August-03-2015 at 7:02pm
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I use Rotella T 15w30 (right Zach?) and Dex 3 Oil and filter every 50 hrs and Dex every 100 ------------- 1994 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: August-03-2015 at 8:03pm
The manual does recommend 40w40 although I don't know if that's GT 40 specific? It also lists 20w50 for below 32 degrees temps. Just wondering why you choose 20w50 other than valvaline racing not being available in that weight? ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
a0128 wrote:Posted By: a0128
Date Posted: August-03-2015 at 8:30pm
Always have had good luck with 20W50. Sometime 40W is hard to get, but it is available in the Racing Oil flavor. |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: August-03-2015 at 8:35pm
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I use Mobil 1 15w50 every 50 hours with Mobil 1 filter as well. Castrol Transmax Dex/Merc every 100 hours ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: August-04-2015 at 9:36am
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Is 40w40 the same as ae40 now? ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Nautiquehunter
Date Posted: August-04-2015 at 9:43am
| Mobil 1 15w50 and any dexron compatible trans oil every 50 hours on both. |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: August-05-2015 at 2:33pm
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I decided to contact PCM. Their recommendation for oil was the Rotella 15w40. ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Toertel
Date Posted: August-05-2015 at 2:44pm
See close enough...I did not have the can infront of me. I buy it at WallyWorld ------------- 1994 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: August-05-2015 at 3:08pm
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...and he did say Dex 3 for transmission. ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-05-2015 at 4:15pm
I give up  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: August-05-2015 at 7:05pm
| rotella is about the best conventional oil there is. its diesel oil but is also excellent for gas engines. im going to use it in my new rebuild. I use amsoil in everything else. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-05-2015 at 8:02pm
Glen, What brand of car(s) do you drive? I'm just wondering if you've called GM, Ford, Chrysler, etc. regarding the brand??? I feel you should call PCM back and get the recommendation is writing. You talked with someone and got a PERSONAL opinion!!!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: August-05-2015 at 8:21pm
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Then educate me Peter...please. That's why I joined this forum! I don't want to get in a bunch of debates. Just want to know how to properly care for my boat. Oh, and I'm a Toyota guy  ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: August-05-2015 at 8:31pm
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I use Royal Purple HPS™ – High Performance Street Synthetic Oil in 20W-50 for the engine. I also use the K&N oil filter (number 3001). The topic of ATF will likely get a little debate. Friction modifiers, synthetic vs. non-synthetic, etc. Lots of folks here use Valvoline Dex/Merc ATF. JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: Toertel
Date Posted: August-05-2015 at 8:49pm
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Most automotice OEM's specify an oil weight and give a brand recomendation... So whats wrong with calling PCM and follwing their recommendation? Byt the way, I followed Zach's recommendation which was also Rotella... ------------- 1994 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-05-2015 at 9:56pm
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Glen, The brand comes down to your choice but the key is to make sure it has the proper levels of ZDDP. I've been running Valvolene racing 20-50 in all my boats for years. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-05-2015 at 9:59pm
Rob, Doesn't the work "street" indicate there isn't ZDDP added? Is there any and do you know at what levels? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: August-05-2015 at 10:06pm
So weight doesn't matter??? I've seen a lot of different personal opinions on different weight oils. That's why I went back to PCM since I didn't see much/any available in 40w40. ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-05-2015 at 10:54pm
Neither Ford who actually built the engines nor PCM who is mearly an engine conversion company has tested or have had one of these engines in their hands for something like 15 years. When they did oils were designed for flat tappet engines.. Since these engines were discontinued,the oil specs have changed. Why would they have kept up with oil technology for an out of warrantee past product? They do not even support them for parts,they are in the business of making a profit selling new engines. But take their word as gospel over multiple people who have current experience using current oils in older engines would IMHO false security. I would not call Ford to ask what to use in a model A anymore than I'd call at&t and ask what the best rotary phone is. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: August-05-2015 at 11:12pm
 ------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation 1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort 1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-06-2015 at 12:32am
I was going to suggest using the FAQ thread early on!!------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: August-06-2015 at 2:03am
I don't know the specific ZDDP additive level. Based on Royal Purple statements, the oil does contain zinc and phosphorus. To quote from the Royal Purple website: "Royal Purple HPS Series motor oil is specifically formulated to maximize performance and meet the demands of high performance and modified engines. HPS is recommended for vehicles no longer under manufacturer warranty and for those seeking a higher level of performance and protection. This unique blend enables HPS to outperform leading synthetics and conventional lubricants for both gasoline and diesel engines. Royal Purple’s HPS is fortified with a high level of zinc/phosphorus anti-wear additive and Royal Purple’s proprietary Synerlec® additive technology." I like the Royal Purple stuff. I've also used Mobil 1 Racing in 15W-50. ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: August-06-2015 at 2:06am
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For more information than you could ever possibly digest, try: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/" rel="nofollow - Bob Is The Oil Guy website. Lots of good info there, but you need to sift through some background noise. JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: August-06-2015 at 9:45am
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So why do you guys choose a 50 weight oil when 40 was the original recommendation? Is that based on anything objective, or just preference? ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-06-2015 at 12:02pm
| Because Valvoline doesn't make a multi viscosity VR1 40 weight |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: August-06-2015 at 12:29pm
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oil is such a hot topic, you should visit a Harley Owners site some time. people about kill each over this topic. Im guessing those running 20/50 are using synthetic which flows much better than conventional oil, likely the reason for the heavier weight over the 40. These engines work hard, much harder than car engine. I would guess that 15/40 Rotella or 20/50 pure synthetic would be the best oils to use. EPA controls the additives in oils. I'm guessing that oil branded as Racing likely circumvents EPA as does Diesel oil. Anyone know of any facts around this? |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: August-06-2015 at 12:36pm
So, just to make sure I'm understanding you, you're saying the brand of oil is more important to you than using the manufactured recommended weight? Not trying to be smart,,,really want to understand why you guys use what you do. ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: August-06-2015 at 12:43pm
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The diesel oil's zinc has been redused the last few years as well. Actualy, some diesels were among of the first to get roller cams. The Detroit Diesel 2-stroke since the late thirties The Allison/GM 6.2 in '82 ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: August-06-2015 at 12:47pm
I don't think anyone does  ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: JPASS
Date Posted: August-06-2015 at 12:48pm
Not quite what most are saying. The biggest issue is the level of ZDDP in the oils being used. There's a general agreement on this site that the higher levels of ZDDP are better for these flat tappet engines as opposed to other oils with lower ZDDP levels. I believe valvoline and Mobil 1 are the 2 most used brands on this site. Wait until you ask about which filter to use.................... ------------- '92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: August-06-2015 at 1:33pm
LMAO!!!!!! ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: August-06-2015 at 1:43pm
And regarding synthetic, for the motor oil either is fine as long as change intervals remain every 50hrs For the trans use Conventional fluid only |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-06-2015 at 1:52pm
That's not what I'm ***************ing saying. |
Posted By: Toertel
Date Posted: August-06-2015 at 2:02pm
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Oh we are talking about oil for the engine.....(still using what Zach told me, but that might be based on where it's placed in the shelf😈...Valvoline might be to high to reach LAMO So while on the topic, I like Fram filter😂 And I use Mobile 1 on the tube for reduced friction https://www.facebook.com/waterskiing.official/videos/1024892440876525/" rel="nofollow - https://www.facebook.com/waterskiing.official/videos/1024892440876525/ ------------- 1994 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: August-06-2015 at 2:05pm
Based on my Correct Craft Operating manual, PCM recommends a straight 40W oil for warm weather operations. The main challenge with this is that there are very few straight 40W oils offered. Other than Shell Rotella T1, I've not been able to locate any straight 40W where I live. I don't mean to be remedial, but the concept of multi viscosity oils is based on cold vs hot operating temperatures. in a 10W-30 multi viscosity oil, the 10W number is the viscosity index of the oil COLD. the 30 number is the equivalent viscosity index of the oil at 100 degrees C (212 F). This is a viscosity index equivalent, as the higher viscosity is achieved by the use of polymer additives. A straight 40W oil is pretty thick when cold and somewhat resistant to flowing. Many will argue that cold engine start-up produces much of the metal-to-metal wear because the oil has drained into the oil pan and now the oil pump has to pump cold, thick oil to wear surfaces. The lighter weight oils will flow faster, pump easier and, therefore, protect the wear surfaces sooner. I operate in spring, summer and fall, so my engine will see start-up temperatures well below 60 degrees F. That is why I use a multi viscosity oil (Royal Purple 20W-50). I don't think that folks simply disregard PCM's oil recommendation. Based on the availability of straight 40W oil, and that there is simply too much evidence that a quality multi viscosity oil will also provide equal engine protection, many owners and mechanics simply don't bother with the straight 40W. Just my 2¢ JQ ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: August-06-2015 at 2:08pm
OK. That makes sense to me. Im assuming Valvaline and Mobile 1 have higher levels than the Rotella? Ill just take my chances on the filter! ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-06-2015 at 2:08pm
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I use VR1 because I can easily source it (by the case on sale, I stock up), they publish their ZDDP levels and it's in the range of the weight I want to use. I would consider using 15w40 if they made it, but they don't, so 20w50 it is. Straight 40 is too heavy in the cold temps. I don't feel like putting diesel oil with no ZDDP documentation in my gasoline engine so Rotella is out. Castrol GTX Diesel 15w40 used to advertise 1300 zinc and 1100 phos but I see it's no longer anywhere on their product data sheet. Lastly, I'm not a synthetic guy so Mobil1 is out. I have not bothered to look into Amsoil, Royal Purple, Brad Penn, etc. The VR1 is doing the job just fine for now. |
Posted By: a0128
Date Posted: August-06-2015 at 2:14pm
Great summary. Exactly why I run 20W-50 in my engine. I don't think brand is as important as making sure you have the right ZDDP levels for your flat tappet engine. |
Posted By: a0128
Date Posted: August-06-2015 at 2:26pm
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Kids in car: "DaaaaaD - are we there yet?" Dad: "Not until your Mother figures out where the oil filter exit is!" Kids: "But didn't you see the sign back there?!?" 
|
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-06-2015 at 2:43pm
| My engine was built in the 80s. At the time the manual was written it called for an API SE oil. That is long obsolete. Then came SF, SG, SH and by SJ (2001) phosphorus was lowered. Next came SL, SM and we are currently at SN. The letters keep going up although some are skipped. I can't find anything on SL specifics but by SM (2010) phosphorus max is limited to 800. |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: August-06-2015 at 2:50pm
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Quakerstate. ------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation 1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort 1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 9:31am
How often do you change it? Go by hours or every 3 months? ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 10:31am
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General rule of thumb for changing oil in our boats is 50 hours or just before you winterize it. ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 10:48am
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*and you wouldn't want 40 hour oil sitting in your engine all winter waiting for the next 10 in spring. |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 11:00am
So don't worry so much about the every 3 month argument with VR1 but not a good idea to leave it all winter and then run it? ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 11:19am
Where the *************** did you read 3 months for boat engine oil? READ THE MANUAL AND THE POSTS ON THIS FORUM. Are you trying to be this dense?
|
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 11:52am
I think it was some other racing/classic car forums discussing flat tappet oils. Some were saying the VR1 has less/different additives so it breaks down quicker??? I think they were basically saying because its a racing oil and formulated differently it needs to be changed sooner and many of them did. Not arguing that to be the case, just asking. I hope it's a non issue because I certainly dont want to change it more than I need too! ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 12:21pm
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Its a frikken ford, not a ferrari ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 1:19pm
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I would be very interested to hear ANY first-hand experience from someone who has had a marine engine failure due to using a non-recommended oil. For an apples-to-apples comparison, oil related engine failure has to have occurred after consistently using the non-recommended oil but following the recommended oil change intervals. Based on the response sample size, we can draw some conclusions as to whether much of the "which oil" discussion is based on fact or opinion. Ford vs. Chevy. Democrat vs. Republican. ------------- Current 2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 1:46pm
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That sounds like the guy buying the Ski Tique with the automotive carb. It hasn't blown up yet why should he bother to change it? Proactive vs. Reactive. I believe Joe & Pete are aware of a few documented cam failures... |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 2:52pm
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well somewhere a manufacturer is lying because my truck I bought new I've changed the oil 3x in a hard 173,xxx miles. 50% of that time the low oil light has been on. ------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation 1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort 1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 2:53pm
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Only on modified engines I suspect. That is why it's it's recommended to break in a cam with lighter seat pressure springs and then replace them with correct ones after its broken in but who actually goes thru the work of doing that? Not every owner of a CC,Mastercraft,Supra or insert name here read forums yet you don't see a bunch of boats for sale with bad engines. For the most part it's case of my brother in laws sisters collage room mates fathers great uncle ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 2:59pm
The manual was written written 16 years ago and the recommended oil isn't even available!!!! Hence why I came to this forum to get "expert advice" in the first place. There are people out there that are still proponents of changing their oil every 3 months with high performance engines (Fords included). I simply asked a freaking question. Can't seem to do that on this forum without getting a smart a** answer! I came to this forum with limited knowledge, lots of questions and a desire to learn. If that makes me "dense" in your book, I'm sorry I've wasted your time and this isn't the resource I thought it would be. If you don't want to answer questions, regardless of how stupid you think hey are, why are you even a moderator??? Welcome to CorrectCraftFan.com - a robust online community of Correct Craft and Nautique inboard enthusiasts; a place to share knowledge, find helpful resources and meet fellow Correct Craft fan-atics. ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 3:21pm
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6 people have given you the answer as to what they do and but you don't seem to listen or believe them. Do you have a Chevy engine in your boat, no you do not but you call the engine converter and ask them,but the last time they had a Ford go thru the door was before the EPA changed the oil specs. Call them back and ask when was the last time they or Ford has done tests on current oil formulations on engines that have been out of production for 15 years--- ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 3:26pm
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sorry for the bashing others have done, not all are like that. As stated before, oil is always a hot topic, just look at the Harley owner sites. I believe any premium grade oil will be just fine. The guy who is building my engine which is an older one with flat tapet cam said to use Rotella so im using it. This is a guy who has built about every engine known to man and has never had one come back to his shop in over 30yrs. I do not see need for synthetic since these engines do not run very hot though it can not hurt. I use amsoil synthetic in my 2 Harleys and 1 honda an also use it in my car. You may want to go to amsoils web site and look at what they recommend for your boat. Their tech line is also very helpful. Its expensive stuff but i think worth it in certain applications. My Vintage Honda Goldwing (1982) is overhead cam with flat tapets. all the vintage bike guys say use Rotella or Chevron diesel, forget the model number. Harley says use Harley Oil but if you cant then use Diesel Oil. (Harley Oil is junk by the way) |
Posted By: a0128
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 3:30pm
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Glen, Disregard what your manual says regarding changing your oil every three months. The magic number is 50 hours. If I were you I'd: 1) Change your oil every 50 hours or at the end of your boating season before you lay it up. 2) Use a brand you are comfortable with, but regardless of brand make sure the oil has a high level of zinc (ZDDP of 1400). 3) 20W-50 or 15W-40 seem to be the agreed upon weights. Pick one that is most compatible with your operating environment. For example, if you run in Lake Mead (Nevada) where water temps approach 85 degrees (and air temps are near 110) in the Summer, I'd run the 20W-50. If you run in cooler bodies of water and use the boat in the Fall use the 15W-40. You can't go wrong with either. 3) Use a quality filter. Ford FL1-A is perfect and inexpensive. 4). Don't let the old oil sit in the pan over the winter. Too many contaminates in there. Don't over think this. It only oil The guys on the forum are only trying to help. If a half-dozen guys tell me "Here is what I do and why I do it" I'd probably do it (unless it involved pulling a tube). |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 3:44pm
------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: Cumby
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 3:48pm
Exactly my point Gary! I just learned that by you telling me that just now. Forbid I come to this forum and not know that information before asking a question!!!! I asked a separate question about shelf life of oil. All I was told was 50 hours. Granted it may be a stupid question to you, I would like to learn the answer. I'm a detail person, which I'm sure most of you guys are as well. However some of you don't seem to have tolerance for those who are less educated on this subject. ------------- 99 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: Morfoot
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 4:00pm
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Glen, we have been TRYING to educate you but you come to the forum of boating enthusiasts and ask a question. 6 guys responded with the same answer as to the time interval but yet you continue to ask it over again. I think after reading it three times then obviously the guys here know what they are talking about. We aren't trying to run you off but are frustrated that you do not take heed the advice you seek! Most members avg 50 hrs a season...some more, some less.... Change it before you put it away for the winter if it has 35 or 50. If you only put 20 hours on the boat in a season....Change it anyway before you winterize it. If you have a banner year and put 60 hours on the boat and changed it after 50 put only 10 hrs on the oil after you changed it when old man winter shows up....CHANGE IT AGAIN! you don't want dirty oil in your engine sitting round. 50 hours is close to 6000-7500 miles on your car. Thats why we change it at 50. ------------- "Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman" |
Posted By: shierh
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 4:13pm
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50 hours or once a year which ever comes first. Ive stuck to this since 1982. Never had oil related failure. |
Posted By: 74Wind
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 4:26pm
Wait a minute, there are Democrats on the site??????? (Thought that might drag this thread out even further...yeeesshh. .) ------------- 1974 Southwind 18 1975 Century Mark II |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 4:50pm
OMFG. His manual does not say to change the oil every three months. crazy pills. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 5:00pm
Thats fine I understand but I did post the same response back on the first page of this thread and now we are at the third page. We can't tell if if your just not reading or not listening. I'm sure that some point in your life you were told not to over analyze. Use a oil that is over 1000 ppm on zinc and phosphorous change it when your done for the year or 50 hours use a quality filter and go boating ! ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: a0128
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 5:10pm
Mmmm . . . actually it says to change it every 50 hours or 60 days, whichever occurs first.   Taken from two separate PCM manuals, one from this site's reference section and one from PN's reference section. Although I think we can all agree that 60 days is unnecessary. . |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 5:41pm
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Strange. What manual did you get those shots from? The 1999 Ski Nautique owner's manual here only says 50 hours. I have not seen that 60 day remark before, nor would I go by it. Hell, the 2003 PCM manual says to change the oil after the first 25 hours, then 100 intervals, or once per year. I understand GT-40s were gone by then but CCF does not seem to have a GT-40 maintenance manual. |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 6:16pm
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HW you gotta be a Saint. I started to reply to this thread and several others today but I quickly found myself turning into 79Nautique. Discretion is the better part of valor and I cleared every GD one of them. WTF is going on here today??????????? ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 6:19pm
| Where's my bullet?? |
Posted By: a0128
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 7:00pm
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/Downloads/PCM%20Engine%20Owners%20Manual.pdf" rel="nofollow - Page 13 http://www.planetnautique.com/CorrectCraftManuals/1995/GT-40Manual.pdf" rel="nofollow - Page MT 2 |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 8:32pm
My buddy has an 82 SN with close to 2500 original hours, has run quaker state the whole time. Oil, Props, GT40 heads, love the chatter! ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: RammerJammer
Date Posted: August-07-2015 at 10:46pm
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I personally use Bertolli Extra Virgin Olive Oil in my 351. It's better for the environment. I get it at any Piggly Wiggly or Kroger and it also makes great funnel cakes while out on the lake. ------------- 1991 Nautique Excel, PCM 351, Pro-Tec ignition |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: August-08-2015 at 12:10am
Yeah, never heard of a funnel cake throwing a rod. ------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation 1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort 1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM |
Posted By: wake_2001
Date Posted: May-06-2016 at 2:25am
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Bringing this thread back to life after reading through while trying to decide on VR1 20w50 or SAE 40. I switched to 20W50 on the last change for the same reasons that everyone here has stated about lower viscosity at start up, but after taking a look at their site it looks like SAE 40 actually has a lower viscosity at 40*c (104F) as well as a lower temp. 'pour point.' Am I seeing things or reading this incorrectly? %20" rel="nofollow - http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/vr1_racing.pdf |