Not another Mustang restoration thread.

Riley wrote: While the floor is up you can add nailers for the seats. I'm surprised you or anyone hasn't said anything about the Star Board. Seems like its easy to use and is rot proof.

Bruce,
I'll comment on the Starboard! It must be mechanically fastened so every screw hole becomes a potential for water intrusion. You also can't glue anything to it so installing the original vinyl type floor covering would be a problem.

8122pbrainard wrote: john b wrote: I solved the problem of mounting bolts pulling out of the plywood floor on a couple of boats I did previously by backing the area with 1/4" aluminum plate. I drilled the holes and tapped them. It was inexpensive and worked really well. The aluminum plates only added a few pounds. I am considering it again. John, You'll end up with extra ply. I suggest just epoxying a double layer together where the seats bolt. Do CPES the holes and then use some 4200 on the screws.

Pete, when you put down the sole, do you use thickened epoxy to bond it to the stringers or is there a better method? My U.S. Composites order and CPES are on the way, I want to get the materials I need so I don't have unnecessary delays mid-project.

8122pbrainard wrote: Dave, Is that picture of a piece of engineered? I looks laminated. I'm still looking and it looks similar to the stuff I want. 3/4", 7&3/4" face, "rustic", oiled and wire brushed White Oak. I just need my wife to decide on a color.

Pete, That is the tongue end of a 3/4 solid piece of red Oak.. I had two left over bundles in my basement for over a year, so I decided to build this cabinet top out of them.



It will be stained ebony. The strips in the photo are from pre-staining the edges so if it opens up in the winter, like flooring likes to do in our climate, it will not show the bright red oak edges.

My former company makes the product you want in their shop. Starting with new flooring, power planing a subtle hand scrap on the surface, rounding the edges, wire brushing and sanding and then oiling (or polyurethane, customer choice). The final oil coats are applied on site.. The result is spectacular but its pretty pricey due to the labor intensity. I put the product into a lot of multi-million dollar homes, mostly on lake Minnetonka.

The last one I installed before my career change was 7800 sg feet of 8" white oak plank..

I would caution against staining too dark, it will show ever speck of dust.

s_kelley2000 wrote: Pete, what do you mean you can't glue anything to Starboard? CC glued carpet to all sorts of pieces of Starboard (kick panel, engine dividers, ski locker door, etc) in my 99 Super sport. Not sure what adhesive would be used for the vinyl flooring but carpet glue holds without issue.

Take a look at Starboards own installation warnings. Are you sure what CC used was HDPE?

Just from a weight standpoint I can tell you interior panels are not HDPE. It's 50% denser.

XPVC has half the tensile and impact strength and is "gluable"

Ziggster wrote: 3M Scotch Weld

$38.00 for 35ml!!! Yup, there's the high tech out there but not for boats!!! I sure wouldn't want a member buying a bunch of Starboard for his sole just to find out he would need big $$$ to glue it down!!!

I took the Jabsco from my spare engine apart today to order parts for a rebuild and ended up with a mystery. It appears by the wear on the impeller vanes the engine has been turning, or was turned the wrong direction (standard rotation) at some time. The engine is locked up and although complete it is just a core, so I can't determine anything without disassembly. The block casting date code is for a 1969 manufacture so I think it's likely it's the original engine. I'm not sure what to think about this situation. I will have to look more closely to see if the pump cam assembly is in the proper position for reverse location. The end plate clearly shows LH rotation. The prop on the sacraficial Mustang was correct clockwise rotation when viewed from the stern so?
Gary's information on the Jabsco water pump rebuild thread was helpful
As far as I can tell the 11850-80 was superceeded by the 11850-0711. I need the 90117-0001 kit, and may replace the bearing and wear plate too just because I can. Is anyone able to confirm that the parts for these two pumps are interchangeable? If anyone has the part numbers of the star drive and Lovejoy coupling I would be happy to have them. I will look for them at Farm & Fleet. I. I also found that the build date is on the end cover. I will order the parts to rebuild this one and if everything works out I will do the other one as a spare. It's probably a good idea to stock up on the soft parts while they are available.
Thanx.

I looked at the pump cam assembly this morning and it is in the correct position for RR and matches the arrow on the bell housing. The spare engine is a mystery, The Mustang it came from was abandoned outside for years before I bought it. It is unknown why the engine is locked up. It may have been manually turned backwards in an attempt to free it up at some time and that could have possibly caused this. The inlet/outlet markings on the pump end plate were oriented correctly. the end plate is behind the steel mounting plate and the pumps is mounted by the end plate screws passing through the mounting plate . This is the orientation of the pump resting on my good engine. .

Duane in Indy wrote: Check the firing order by the way the wires are on the distributor cap. OR pull the distributor and look at the gear. Mine is RR and the firing order is NOT what is cast into the intake manifold. That is probably the quickest and most positive way to check rotation that I know of. Others may have better methods Ford distributor ////// std rot. gear teeth \\\\\\   rev. rot. gear teeth

Everything on the core engine looks right to me, here is the dist.

Duane in Indy wrote: You are showing us a REVERSE ROTATION dist.

The mystery is why the impeller vanes are deflected the wrong way for an RR engine.

Good news, bad news. I was lazy today and didn't want to grind fiberglass so I pulled the heads to assess and see what they put in this thing. As far as wear it appears very good. Almost no ridge, light carbon deposits, no scoring, The Fel-Pro 8025 head gasket was 0.040 with the crush (right where it should be), and very clean on the oil side with a little rust on the pushrods. My first look at the pistons. The bad, very heavy scale in the block and head water jacket with some passages completely blocked, special port unmatching with the gasket placement. I guess I will be pulling it down to thermal clean, hot tank, and shot peen, magnaflux, mic it down, re-ring and bearings and reassemble.. Yea, easy as that!

8122pbrainard wrote: John, Getting back to the RWP vanes turned backwards, unless I missed it, I haven't seen where anyone has asked about the starter motor. Is it the correct rotation?

I haven't checked yet Pete. It's in the garage attic. Considering the state of disrepair that boat was in and the people who owned it, I wouldn't be surprised if it was abandoned due to not starting after a standard rotationstarter replacement.

Gary S wrote: Does not matter anyway,if I recall this is the extra engine that you have from the SS right? You know this engine is correct rotation because you have already had it running. Not much of a chance the other engine having the wrong starter on it anyway because a Holman Moody used a special nose starter. Any other starter, lefty or righty will not fit because of it's length. Art told me one can be made up by using a nose and bendix from one and a motor from another but not many people know that. I think it came up when Dave H needed one. This is the time when getting yours repaired can save a lot of headaches

It's a riddle Gary. Did you have a lot of corrosion and scale in your engine when you opened it up?

8122pbrainard wrote: John, Getting back to the RWP vanes turned backwards, unless I missed it, I haven't seen where anyone has asked about the starter motor. Is it the correct rotation?

lewy2001 wrote: john b wrote: Duane in Indy wrote: You are showing us a REVERSE ROTATION dist. The mystery is why the impeller vanes are deflected the wrong way for an RR engine. Incorrect starter ?????? And never got the engine running :)

TRBenj wrote: I'm not sure it would be that straightforward to determine rocker ratio, John... Too many angles and different planes to be taking simple measurements..

Just an idea but how about setting up the dial indicator on top of the rocker in line with the valve stem and then the push rod?