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engine stops abruptly

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niagararob View Drop Down
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    Posted: May-22-2005 at 1:36am
                                              every now and then while running at cruising speed , 30 to 34 mph, the engine just cuts out and hast to be restarted.Points, plugs, cables, distributer cap are almost new. i'm assuming its an electricle problem because its easy to restart usually and because of its imediate loss of power.boat in question is a 86 skinautique
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Bradley950 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bradley950 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2005 at 10:33am
When this happens, do your gages die or cut off?   If not your motor could be vapor locking. -Brad-
Brad Miller
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niagararob View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote niagararob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2005 at 9:33pm
i'm usually the one skiing when this happens so i don't know but to the best of my knowledge vapor lock is like running out of gas, the power would die off slower with a little bit of sputtering. when it happens, you can hear the engine lose all combustion. but when we start it again its like nothings wrong. another thing, it only seems to happen over 3000 rpm.
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Bradley950 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bradley950 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2005 at 11:52pm
Are you running a point system or do you have electronic ignition? -Brad-
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JEFF KOSTIS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JEFF KOSTIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2005 at 2:00am
Sounds like a electrical problem. Not much info to judge by. Vapor lock is not common on cool running boat motors and usually occurs at start-up.
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64 Skier View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 64 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2005 at 4:05am
Coils do this when they start to age and weaken. I read where they lose power over time exposure to heat. They're also cheap and the easiest thing to change.

Do you have points? Ifso, then the ballast resistor is also an easy/cheap change out.

Check your wiring just to make sure one isn't vibrating at a certain speed....long shot, but very difficult to trouble shoot.
64 Skier
66" HO VTX and 67" HO Triumph
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Tim D View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2005 at 11:20am
I had water in the gas tank years ago and it would die abruptly.
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80nauts View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 80nauts Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2005 at 12:09pm
Check your exhaust hoses. I had a similar problem and I figured out that I had 2 pretty bad exhaust leaks. These leaks kill all the o2 and since the engine is pulling air from inside the cover it will cause your engine to stop when you really want to cruise.
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David F View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2005 at 12:43pm
What I have learned from similiar posts over the past months is that symptoms with seemingly obvious cuases can be decieving. So, you really must go through everything with the more common causes being:

Electrical:
Coil, condensor (if points), ignition module, ballast resistor, loose wiring connections, bad wiring/ground, faulty tach (shorting to ground), etc.

Fuel:
fuel filter, suction line air leak, kinked fuel line, fuel pump, etc.

Sorry no specific help....
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niagararob View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote niagararob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2005 at 6:23pm
points have been changed recently, if a ballast resistor is the one inside the distributor then that got changed when i did the points. i don't think its an exhaust leak because it sometimes goes days or weaks without a problem. this weak i'll check the water seperator again and pour some alcohol in the tank. the coil is drawing suspicion

thanks for the sugestions list, i have some work ahead of me.
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Jim_In_Houston View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim_In_Houston Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2005 at 6:47pm
If you are always the one that is skiing when it happens I think you should make a close examination of your friends.
Happy owner of a '66 and a '68 Mustang
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Dan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2005 at 9:54pm
I had a similiar problem in an I/O. It turned out to be the float in the carborator bowl. It needed to be adjusted so more fuel could sit in the bowl. Once I adjusted the float, it ran like a top. The problem only happened above crusing speed - not at an idol. Good luck!
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Sedny View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sedny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2005 at 4:05am
I am new at all this so read this with a grain of salt:

I was talking to one of my friends and he described a similar story to yours. It turned out he had a leak, where water would get into his fuel supply. His boat would run for 30 minutes and just stop. When he got it going again it would do same thing. He used the throttle a couple of times to see what would squirt into carb and it looked like water was mixed in. A taste test confirmed. He found soutrce of his leak and problem was fixed.
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Siveck View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Siveck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2005 at 3:48pm
Mine used to do that with the old ballast resistor. The resistor would get hot and cut the voltage to the coil almost completely. I removed it when I converted to HEI ignition. My ballast resistor on my '75 was located under the plate on the back of the intake where the stater relay and voltage regulator are found. An old resistor can break down alot easier under the heat than a new one.
1975 Ski Nautique
"Small Letter Boat"
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jimbo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimbo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-26-2005 at 4:53pm
Originally posted by niagararob niagararob wrote:

points have been changed recently, if a ballast resistor is the one inside the distributor ...


That's a capacitor. The resistor is mounted on a plate at the rear of the engine.
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niagararob View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote niagararob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-27-2005 at 12:35am
hey jimbo, do you mean the plate where the main fuse and the starter solenoid are? because no that has never been changed. still have'nt put methal hydrate in, waiting for weekend.
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jimbo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jimbo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-28-2005 at 1:47pm
If you have a ballast resistor, that's where it should be. The plate that has the main fuse, the voltage regulator (several wires) and the solenoid (to thick wires, a couple of small wires). My boat had a resistor wire as opposed to a ballast resistor. A wire from the resistor should go to the coil.
I'd replaced the coil first. Some people think coils don't wear out that often, but automotive coils installed on boats seem to. Put some B-12 Chemtool in the tank. That will help get rid of water and clean the carb. Also check all the electrical connections. Make sure they are tight, insulatated, and free of corrosion. A little bit of corrosion can cause big problems when you are only dealing with 12 V.
Good luck.
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