1975 Skiier Stringer Replacement |
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FrankT
Senior Member Joined: September-07-2006 Status: Offline Points: 245 |
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If they look clean I would leave them thicker. On mine I laminated some oak onto the side of the stringer at the front engine mounts as they are wider then 1-1/2". If you go this route I would recommend that grind the existing leg on the high side. The leg on the lower will help hold the epoxy in when you reset the stringer.
FrankT |
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WakeSlayer
Grand Poobah Joined: March-15-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2138 |
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I planed mine down to 1.5". However, I left my channels in the hull.
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Mike N
1968 Mustang |
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Hi everyone.
Just returned from a 320 mile roundtrip event to retrieve my two primary beams from Sweetwater in Austell Ga. That's a great place and highly reccomment it. Glad that's over with. I could not buy the 1X stringers or plywood from them in a 5/8" thickness because they don't carry plywood in that thickness and the 1X would be too expensive and they just suggested I go to Lowe's for these two items. Got one question. The stringers I bought today are actually 2" wide stuff and looks real good. Do I rip it down to the 1 1/2" width my original beam was or do I leave it like it is and just have a big pair of heavyweight stringers to put the engine on? I can't tell if their would be any place that it would really make a difference to have the two inch width vs. going with the original width of 1 1/2" Scott |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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Okie Boarder
Gold Member Joined: August-31-2009 Location: OK Status: Offline Points: 779 |
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Scott,
You're looking good. Wipe the boat down and let everyone see how deep you grinded. I'd agree on what these guys are saying about the exhaust ports, etc. If you look at my thread, I just found some wet wood up front on mine I wasn't expecting. The wood in the back of mine seems solid and dry so I'm not messing with it. |
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Okie Boarder
Gold Member Joined: August-31-2009 Location: OK Status: Offline Points: 779 |
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Check out this fuel line at DIM. $1.96 a foot. |
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Keeganino
Grand Poobah Joined: October-27-2009 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 2063 |
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Definitely remove the exhaust ports. The plywood under the glass is exposed once you pull out the metal exhaust ports and it will be wet. Same with the rudder mount. Nothing but plywood with holes drilled through it under that glass. Water is in there.
CPES is a crucial prophylactic. I just paid $190 for 2 gallons. Not real happy with that but it is guaranteed to add years, if not decades to the life of your boat. Every single drill hole for your hardware should be pilot drilled, then filled with CPES and then 5200 applied at the time the screw is set. These details are the difference between the duct tape jobs that came out of the factory and a world class rebuild. |
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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger
1973 Skier |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Scott,
Plan on pulling the exhaust through hulls and the strut so you can grind the ply out from the hull. Just as Brian mentioned, I would not take the chance that the ply in those areas is good. Yes, it's hard to tell from the pictures but keep in mind you want to lay the new glass on old glass and not the decorative gel coat in the bilge. It needs to be ground off. It's not very strong! |
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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This is not a very good picture but everything you see is virtually level.
Here is the drivers side exhaust port. I plan on cleaning and grinding around it some more. Rudder assembly area The passenger side of my boat. I have the original decal which is not the one shown. |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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bkhallpass
Grand Poobah Joined: March-29-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4723 |
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Don't be in a hurry to take the lip off the side wall. It is your best point of reference for leveling the stringers and the floor.
I pulled the wood around my exhaust ring, and also the rudder, and they turned out to be fine. The stringers were rubble. Go figure. The problem is, if you don't do it now, it's a real PITA, should you have to go back and do it later. It's pretty easy to change them out now. Try to post a pic of your grinding. It sound like you are probably there, or very close. BKH |
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Livin' the Dream
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Is it mandatory to take the exhaust port wood and rudder wood out? I have to say it looks like its in perfect condiction but I could and probably am wrong. The bilge pump piece would be no problem if that too has to come out. I have been up and down the drivers side of the boat grinding and grinding and everything is almost flush. When do I know when enough is enough? I ground the lip on the side wall almost flush as well. comments? Thanks, scott |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Pete,
Your name should be "Dr. 8122pbrainard" and I would bet there is not much related to correct crafts that you do not know about. Your knowledge is invaluable and I am taking note of everything you and everone else is saying and applying it to my restoration. Thanks. scott |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Scott,
The CPES is different than the resin you just got. Did you see the link Mike provided to the explanation on CPES and what it does? The picture Keegan posted is simply the rubber hose connection between the shaft log and the shaft packing gland. Although it does keep the water out, it's not the actual seal. The sealing means is a rope type packing material inside the packing gland. It's the big nut and housing right where the shaft first enters the bilge. |
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Is this a different material or substance than the epoxy resin and hardner that I received this week or is it another name for the same thing? Is the sealer used to put on the areas of the wood that are not being fiberglassed? Thanks scott |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Keegan,
Nevermind, I saw the log on the skidim website. Sorry. What do you suggest of the three air intake hoses and the wiring enclosure up under the dash? If you know where the thread is as well I could read about it. Saved the Skidim website under favorites and will use them I am sure. |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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By "log" do you mean the housing to hold the wiring or something else? Headed out to work on it for a couple of hours. Thanks. |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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Keeganino
Grand Poobah Joined: October-27-2009 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 2063 |
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This is what you need for the log.
I have been advised that the $200 dripless systems are not worth the extra $. Pete is right about the noise. It is nothing to worry about. The Cutlass bearing is like a hard rubber material and needs to be wet to spin quietly. Skidim.com has most of what you need. I have not bought anything from them yet, but they have been suggested to me and others many times by the members of this site. The sun is finally out today so I am going to level and block up my boat. My CPES is supposed to be here tomorrow and I will be ordering my glass supplies by Wednesday. |
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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger
1973 Skier |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Steve,
Both the cutlass bearing in the strut (rubber bushing aft by the prop) and the prop shaft stuffing box just forward of the shaft log (brass angular plate glassed into the hull) are water lubricated. They will vibrate/make noise when dry but also because you have the engine pulled the shaft is out of alignment. I wouldn't worry too much about ether at this time. You can check for radial ply between the shaft and the cutlass but will defiantly will want to address both when it's time for the engine to go back in and you do a alignment. Plenty of info here on alignment too!!! Save your reading time now for the stringer project. |
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Keegan,
Where do you buy the replacement prop shaft seal? My contact in Florida at Southeast Mastercraft could get me one I am sure. I was turning that shaft after I took the engine out the other day and it was making a sound like it was dry or needed lubricated. You have been very helpful. Contact me again anytime as I need all the advise I can get. scott |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Keegan,
There is good news and bad news about reading and having access to this website. The good news is that everyone, including you, are giving me pointers and "don't forget" items that I was not aware of and would have easily overlooked and felt terrible later. The bad news is when the good news is over, there is more money out of my pocket and more soreness in my back. I just got through taking two Motrin because my back is hurting and I can't sleep. The plywood issue is now off the "worry" list and I will pick up about three sheets of it monday. Later, scott |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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Keeganino
Grand Poobah Joined: October-27-2009 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 2063 |
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Looks like you are moving right along at a great pace.
Get all of those cables out of the way. It will save you a lot of trouble. Get all of the hardware out- the prop and shaft, rudder, exhaust ports. The The prop shaft seal will need to be replaced so you might as well get it out of your way while you are working. My seal basically fell apart after I removed the shaft so I am really glad I did not overlook it. There is wood under the glass at the exhaust ports and rudder mount that need to be removed as well, and don't forget the wood under the lift ring on the transom and under the bilge pump. There is no wood under the pylon mount so leave it alone unless it is loose. Pete is right about the plywood. Looks like you did a nice clean job removing your stringer. I wish mine came out that nice. Good work, keep it up! |
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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger
1973 Skier |
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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This is the drivers side primary Stringer.
Has anyone ever seen one of these tool? My grandfather gave it to me when he died. It let's you copy an angel on wood to match what you are replacing. This is my nice heated workshop. The rear inside of the boat. Any comments? |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Pete,
Thanks, you are correct again. I built this hunting boat I was talking about in 2005 and I think you could drop it off the roof of my house and it would not scratch it so I figured it would definitely work for a boat I use 12-15 hours per year but you guys have a proven track record so thats good enough for me. It will also work out well monday when I go to Sweetwater and can just give him all the business(Doug Fir, plywood, 1x's and anything else). Got my computer back. Going outside to take some pictures. Will send them in a little while. Anyone that wants to comment on them plese do. I have been grinding one side of the boat for about three hours today. Trying to get everything smooth as possible but I know it does not have to be perfect especially the sides since I am probably going with the plywood and not the foam. Just trying to get all the old foam, old wood and gelcoat out of the boat. Thanks again. Keep me motivated and give any and all advise you can. I plan on sitting in fron of the fire tonight and reading threads. Don't partake in alchohol so a nice diet coke will do. scott scott |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Scott,
Why Luan? It's underlayment and one of the cheapest pieces of junk wood sheet goods you can find at the home center/lumberyard. It's not even put together with exterior grade glue!! Stick with exterior grade 5/8 ply (if no foam), do what's proven itself and leave the "home handyman boat building books alone"!!! |
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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keegan,
What do you think about the idea of using luan instead of plywood? As I mentioned in an earlier post, I built a hunting layout boat covered in lunan and fiberglassed over with the same materials I am using now and it is solid as granite and a fraction of the weight of plywood. I would just have to add more stringer and support to use wood instead of foam and a ton less money. My supplier at RAKA.com also said he saw no problems with luan. Your thoughts? |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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WakeSlayer
Grand Poobah Joined: March-15-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2138 |
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Unscrew the rail from the boat. Underneath is the joint where the hull and the top cap are riveted together. Tape the bottom edge (so you don't get goo on the gel you can see when the rail is on) and run a bead of 3m 5200 Marine Sealant along that seam. Re-install the rubrail as it was. |
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Mike N
1968 Mustang |
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Keeganino
Grand Poobah Joined: October-27-2009 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 2063 |
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If you go with a no foam rebuild like me you will need to use a thick plywood floor glassed to the hull. The foam actually supported the old fiberglass floor. I am going to use 3/4 or 5/8ths ply, bonded to the tops of the stringers in thickened epoxy and to the hull and bilge with a layer each of 2" and 4" 9oz cloth. Then a couple of layers of 1.5oz mat over all the plywood.
These boats are not rocket science and there are a million different ways to skin this cat. I am finding that I am going to need to support my hull even though it is on the OEM trailer. There is enough sagging that I think it is going to make a difference on the final fit. |
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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger
1973 Skier |
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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I would have never thought of that. I will definitely look into that. People are amazed when they see my rubrail because it looks basically brand new after 35 years so I need to be careful with it. Is it hard to do? Thanks a ton.
scott |
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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srbranum
Senior Member Joined: March-06-2010 Location: Huntsville, Al Status: Offline Points: 369 |
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Sounds like a part that went on the Space shuttle. Where do I get such an item as this?
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I have to keep her running 'cause I can't afford a new one
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WakeSlayer
Grand Poobah Joined: March-15-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2138 |
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4" PVC S&D 3500# Super Crush ASTM D2729 I painted the part that sticks into the bilge with BilgeKote. |
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Mike N
1968 Mustang |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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SR - Your boat may be leaking at the rub rail. This is a common problem - my boat is leaking there too. I am going to remove the rub rail & seal the hull/cap joint with 3m 5200 sealant. FYI & good luck on your project! |
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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