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Removing exhaust manifold bolts? |
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Waterdog 
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Joined: April-27-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2020 |
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 Posted: February-05-2009 at 10:21am |
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Dave,
Take your time! It's easy to get frustrated with frozen bolts. Penatrating fluid, heat, cut-off wheel ect.. You'll probably use all the tools you can think of.Try to keep the colateral damage to a minimum. |
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dwcar
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Joined: February-11-2007 Location: Houston Texas Status: Offline Points: 1103 |
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Posted: February-04-2009 at 11:14pm |
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Dave,
I just removed my manifolds. I broke off one of my bolt heads. Luckly it was just the head and there was enough of the bolt sticking out that i could get a pair of vice grips on it. I was told to take something like an ice pick or finer and pick around where the bolt goes into the engine. I was able to get some of the rust out of the threads. I also used the PB blaster. I kept working it for about 4 days and when i tried the vice grips it came right out. good luck |
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83Ski
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: February-04-2009 at 12:24pm |
Chris, Stainless is simply a carbon steel alloy so it's cool with the cast iron. Dave, You should be able to cut into the head most of the way without hitting the casting with the standard Dremel cut off wheel/arbor. Then with a cold chisel break it off (remember it's hard!!) the rest of the way. You may then need to go back at it with a mounted stone to remove what's left of the head. |
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Dave D.
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Joined: June-09-2008 Location: Lake Travis, TX Status: Offline Points: 90 |
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Posted: February-04-2009 at 11:47am |
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I tried drilling the heads off and Pete is right...it's nearly impossible even with a carbide bit. I am going to try using my Dremmel to cut them off but was wondering which particular Dremmel wheel I should use. I also plan to heat the them with a torch and wack them with a punch to set up vibration so I can get the penetrating oil to suck down into the threads as it cools. I like the idea of putting the new bolts in and tightening them to help relieve the stuck bolts.
I have never had such a hard time removing the manifolds on other(hot rod)projects. Maybe it's just a Ford thing, lol!! Thanks for all the great imput! |
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SNobsessed
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Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Posted: February-04-2009 at 10:54am |
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Is stainless & cast iron a good mix? Sometimes different metals will have galvanic reaction. Just wondering.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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Gary S
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Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Posted: February-04-2009 at 12:44am |
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They do make stainless ones and with some anti seeze you'll never have any trouble again
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bradtm16
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Posted: February-04-2009 at 12:15am |
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Once you do get them out, you should run a tap in the threads to clean out as much rust as possible. When you get new bolts, you have to go back with the allen head style, I was going to try to switch my to hex head but the head is to large. Just a little tip to save you time.
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: February-03-2009 at 9:58pm |
Steve, A socket head cap screw has a higher tensile strength than a grade 8 bolt consequently they aren't the easiest to drill even with a carbide bit. They are hard - min. Rockwell C39!!! Have you even tried drilling one? |
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86BFN
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Joined: July-28-2008 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 882 |
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Posted: February-03-2009 at 9:42pm |
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You could also drill the head off. once you remove the manifold it will be easer to get the rest of the bolt out.
PB blaster works great! |
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BuffaloBFN
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Joined: June-24-2007 Location: Gainesville,GA Status: Offline Points: 6094 |
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Posted: February-03-2009 at 8:30pm |
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Another idea might be to put new hex bolts back in the places where the others came out. Snug 'em up and that will take pressure off of the others.
And maybe use a cold punch smaller than the hex head and a sharp blow for an attitude adjustment. I haven't seen what Pete posted until now, but I'd use that or an easy out after the 'adjustment'. |
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Dave D.
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Joined: June-09-2008 Location: Lake Travis, TX Status: Offline Points: 90 |
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Posted: February-03-2009 at 6:14pm |
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Thanks Pete, I will give the Dremmel and/or the extractor a try. I cannot get a pair of vice grips on the bolt heads and the heads in question are very bad shape. Once I cut off the bolt heads and remove the manifold, I feel pretty certian that I can get the rest of the bolts out. Looks like I will use some anti-sieze on the new replacement bolts after I clean up the holes with a tap. I will post it hear when I achieve success. Thanks again for the tips, Pete!
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: February-03-2009 at 3:43pm |
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Dave,
If the socket head hex's are accessible from the top and not blind (a section of the casting close to the top of the bolt) then you may want to try one of these: 
.hex socket head extractors - bottom of page 2814 If not then you may be able to get a vise grip on it. If that doesn't work then a Dremel tool with a cut-off blade to cut the heads off is another option. Do use some penetrating oil like Kroil or PB Blaster (not WD40 - worthless s***) and some heat. BTW, on tough to break loose socket heads, never use a worn allen wrench or one of the "ball-point" hex keys. |
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Dave D.
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Joined: June-09-2008 Location: Lake Travis, TX Status: Offline Points: 90 |
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Posted: February-03-2009 at 2:39pm |
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I need some advice on the best way to remove a couple of rusted exhaust mainfold bolts on my '89 PCM 351. I can get most of the bolts out with no problem but a few are siezed and the allen heads are stripped out. The manifold gaskets are not leaking but I need to remove the mainfolds to replace leaking valve cover gaskets. Please advise, thanks!
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SNobsessed wrote: