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The Shaft is Bent!

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Brktracer View Drop Down
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    Posted: April-21-2008 at 11:45am
It's bent between the strut and taper. That's why it didn't show up on alignment. I hate to buy a new one right now but I'm glad we found the problem! It's not bent bad but obviously it's enough to cause vibration.

In case you've never done it before, pressing the coupling off is about a 3-4 beer job! Other than being bombarded with pollen for about an hour, it wasn't a bad job. Just tedious!

I'm looking for a shaft now. I noticed the shafts on skidim are taper on both ends. Any experience with this design? Any other options I should consider?

Hey, jbear...I'll get your prop shipped out tomorrow. I've kept it longer than expected already. Thanks again for letting me use it!

Thanks again...

Matt


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2008 at 12:24pm
stay away from the double taper, no need for it unless you got money to burn, single taper is fine and you should pay no more than $160.00 for it
"the things you own will start to own you"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2008 at 1:06pm
What kind of boat did you have again?
1983 Ski Nautique 2001
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brktracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2008 at 1:23pm
'76 Nautique. It has a 50" X 1" shaft.

I'm not a big fan of the double taper. It will be a real pain if I ever need to remove it again! The thing that concerned me is they sell it as a kit. All I need is the shaft. My coupling is fine.

Where else can I get a shaft?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2008 at 1:36pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fixitjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2008 at 2:04pm
Brktracer, what method did you use to determine the shaft was bent, behind the strut? I've been chasing a vibration after hitting a floating log last year. I pulled the boat (93 Ski Nautique) out and took it to someone who said the shaft was not bent. I asked them how they checked the shaft for straightness and he said he used a straight edge. Not sure his method was a good one. I believe I have a slight bend after the strut but the space is so short it is difficult to determine. I guess I could remove the strut and have it checked? Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2008 at 2:25pm
Originally posted by Brktracer Brktracer wrote:

I'm not a big fan of the double taper. It will be a real pain if I ever need to remove it again!

Not sure if Im misunderstanding you, but the benefit of the double tapered shaft is that it WONT be a pain to remove since the coupler isnt pressed on.

I have one on my '90 that the PO installed- Im hoping that I never come to appreciate it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2008 at 2:52pm
Originally posted by fixitjim fixitjim wrote:

Brktracer, what method did you use to determine the shaft was bent, behind the strut? I've been chasing a vibration after hitting a floating log last year. I pulled the boat (93 Ski Nautique) out and took it to someone who said the shaft was not bent. I asked them how they checked the shaft for straightness and he said he used a straight edge. Not sure his method was a good one. I believe I have a slight bend after the strut but the space is so short it is difficult to determine. I guess I could remove the strut and have it checked? Thanks


Jim, I would certainly question the guy who thinks he can check a shaft for straightness with a straight edge especially while the shaft is on the boat!!
It's in another thread about using a dial indicator mounted to the strut to check aft of the strut in the boat. It also mentions out of the boat with the shaft set in V blocks and again a dial indicator.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brktracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2008 at 2:54pm
Originally posted by fixitjim fixitjim wrote:

Brktracer, what method did you use to determine the shaft was bent, behind the strut?

If they didn't pull the shaft it would be real hard to tell with a straight-edge. And then you would need a machinist's straight edge.

I pulled the shaft and took it into the house and rolled it on the counter top. It has a slight lope when it is rolled. If I leave the part from the strut back hanging off the edge it rolls smooth.

The real way to check it is with a dial indicator and v-blocks but I could see the bend by rolling it.

Matt

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brktracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2008 at 3:00pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by Brktracer Brktracer wrote:

I'm not a big fan of the double taper. It will be a real pain if I ever need to remove it again!

Not sure if Im misunderstanding you, but the benefit of the double tapered shaft is that it WONT be a pain to remove since the coupler isnt pressed on.

I have one on my '90 that the PO installed- Im hoping that I never come to appreciate it!


I think either way will be a pain. I pressed the coupling off by placing 1/2" nuts between the shaft and trans couplings and tightening the four bolts about 2 flats one at the time. It wasn't hard, just tedious. Pulling a prop can be harder and it's on a taper!

Matt
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brktracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2008 at 4:58pm
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

stay away from the double taper, no need for it unless you got money to burn, single taper is fine and you should pay no more than $160.00 for it


Quote $235??? Is that too much?

Matt
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2008 at 6:40pm
Brktracer - You might want to reconsider buying a new coupler. General prop will fit & face it for you so you have minimum installation hassle & can be assured of no runout.

I tried to re-use my old coupler & ended up shipping my new shaft back to General Prop to get a new coupler fit & faced. Had to pay an extra $30 shipping in the end. It seems my cheapskate ways cost me extra in the long run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p/allen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2008 at 9:00pm
Go to your nearest machine shop . Get a quote from them . Should be around 150 . Deffinatly less than 200.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2008 at 12:10am
I wanna meet the guy with the straight edge, that sure would make my life easier, especially down by the taper. if you dont have access to indicators you can remove the prop, being very careful and lubing the strut and fire the boat,if its bent you will see it past the taper and if you think well maybe its bent, then it is bent
the double tapers do make life easier, i wish every boat had one on it, but they are pricey
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2008 at 1:28am
Matt: You keep the prop till you are done with this job...then test...then send it back. I am not in any rush to get it back. Well maybe MM is!

john
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brktracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2008 at 11:03am
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

Brktracer - You might want to reconsider buying a new coupler. General prop will fit & face it for you so you have minimum installation hassle & can be assured of no runout.

I tried to re-use my old coupler & ended up shipping my new shaft back to General Prop to get a new coupler fit & faced. Had to pay an extra $30 shipping in the end. It seems my cheapskate ways cost me extra in the long run!


At first I didn't realize what you were talking about. After thinking about it for a bit I understand completely! You make a great point! I'm really glad you brought this up!

If the bore in the coupler is not exactly perpendicular to the flange face I'll be right back where I started! So...the coupler needs to be installed on the new shaft and faced to ensure it is perpendicular to the shaft. Then remove the coupler and install the shaft in the boat.

Great advice!

Matt
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brktracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2008 at 11:05am
jbear...

Thanks for the offer. I have it ready to go back but may reconsider. Let me check on a shaft and if I can get one within a reasonable amount of time I might keep it to retry.

Regardless, I lost your address so I need to get it again. Email it to brktracer@hotmail.com.

Matt
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2008 at 11:33am
Originally posted by Brktracer Brktracer wrote:


If the bore in the coupler is not exactly perpendicular to the flange face I'll be right back where I started! So...the coupler needs to be installed on the new shaft and faced to ensure it is perpendicular to the shaft. Then remove the coupler and install the shaft in the boat.
Great advice!
Matt


Yes, plus they make sure that the bore in the coupling is the correct .0005" interference fit. The prop shafting isn't machined and the normal from the mill tolerance is around + or - .0025"


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 87BFN owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2008 at 4:20pm
Brktracer

You may be able to check with the boat doc about a shaft. I would try talking to him.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MarineTech Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2008 at 8:52pm
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:


the double tapers do make life easier, i wish every boat had one on it, but they are pricey


This is a question for Eric, regarding the above comment.....Eric, why do you prefer the double taper, I suppose it makes for a more accurate fit of the flange, and easier alignment or are there other reasons? Never worked with one, just curious.
Ken
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2008 at 9:30pm
Actually, after all is said & done, it would have been cheaper for me to get a double taper shaft from SkiDim than buying the single taper shaft & new coupler, fitted & faced.

I only went with single taper because i was cheap & thought I could re-use my old coupler.

If I was starting over I would get a double taper.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote behindpropeller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2008 at 12:11am
Originally posted by MarineTech MarineTech wrote:

Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:


the double tapers do make life easier, i wish every boat had one on it, but they are pricey


This is a question for Eric, regarding the above comment.....Eric, why do you prefer the double taper, I suppose it makes for a more accurate fit of the flange, and easier alignment or are there other reasons? Never worked with one, just curious.
Ken



You just listed all of the answers Eric will give you. I need a shaft also, pretty sure I am going with the double taper because you can get the shaft/coupler system with lower runnout.

Tim

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2008 at 9:53am
Originally posted by behindpropeller behindpropeller wrote:

pretty sure I am going with the double taper because you can get the shaft/coupler system with lower runnout.

Tim


Lower run out on a double taper? Only if the coupling is faced just as you would do on a straight shaft. The taper on the shaft and in the bore of the coupling has manufacuring tolerances just like a straight shaft.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2008 at 10:25am
they are easier to remove for service, thats the only reason, IMO
single taper with fitted coupling usually is in the 250 range..from general prop
a shaft and prop shouldnt have to be removed 10 times, it should be installed and then forgot about, until you hit something
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote behindpropeller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2008 at 11:16am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by behindpropeller behindpropeller wrote:

pretty sure I am going with the double taper because you can get the shaft/coupler system with lower runnout.

Tim


Lower run out on a double taper? Only if the coupling is faced just as you would do on a straight shaft. The taper on the shaft and in the bore of the coupling has manufacuring tolerances just like a straight shaft.


Pete-

I agree. Once you take care of the runout it is good for life, not the same on a non tapered shaft assembly.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2008 at 12:55pm
in the past, i have pressed gears and hubs and input couplings on tapered shafts and they had so much face runout, it was actually a wobble, they easily can go on crooked, belive it or not, that is another reason for a single taper,
it is an extra expense that is not needed, if you hit a tapered shaft it will bend too and deemed no good, so what's the difference.
3 tapered shafts at 350.00 each- 1050.00
3 sigle tapers at 250.00 each 750.00
see the difference this of course this is if you hit something three times and the only advantage to double taper is the ease of removal
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brktracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2008 at 2:21pm
I don't know why I would ever remove my shaft again unless I hit something and it gets bent. That being said...if I have trouble getting the coupling back off, the shaft could just be cut off and the remainder of the shaft pressed out of the coupling if I need to re-use it. I don't see why cutting it would really matter if it is already junk!

I checked with some local machine shops and it looks like General Prop is cheaper and will have the best materials. I'm going to order one.

Thanks,

Matt
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brktracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2008 at 2:43pm
Coupling and my old prop are on the way to Gen Prop. New shaft, face coupling, and try to fix up my old prop for now. I'll buy a new prop as soon as my house sells - we're working on an offer right now!

Matt

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote behindpropeller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-23-2008 at 4:32pm
Anybody know how long of shaft i need for an '86 2001???

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote behindpropeller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2008 at 2:50pm
Originally posted by eric lavine eric lavine wrote:

general prop 941-748-1528


Called them for a double taper shaft....

$317.00...yikes

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