351 W stops after being shut off wont start

I was not able to water test the Martinique when I purchased it. There were a couple of things that I missed but overall, I think it's a good boat. Stringer are original and I'm not sure of their condition.
   This boat originally had a Holman Moody 302. It reportedly froze and cracked. PO purchased the boat and installed a mid 80's rebuilt 351W. Also did interior.
   I do realize that heat should not affect a restart but the boat will fire up when it has a chance to cool. Figured it couldn't hurt to actively pull the heat and enjoy the boat while I diagnose. I have an old school boat mechanic who I've spoken with quite a bit who has made made many suggestions. I'll probably get it to him in the spring first thing.
     As for pulling from the lift ring, I cringe when I hear people say they do that. I have owned an 18' Chris Craft Cavalier for 13 years (zero issues!) and retro fitted a steel plate across stringers to accept a heavy duty tripod pylon (no tubes on this pylon). The Martinique came with a heavy solid steel finger eye pole but the diameter is too big for the receiver. The plate across the stringers is gone. The pole is beautiful and I have an install plan!
   I love the stories in Diaries. I'll add to.
Again, thanks for the welcome.

Nice looking boat, most likely culprit to your no start would be a dripping carb flooding out the engine, after float bowl is empty and the gas evaporates it starts again. Of course it could be electrical as well, best way to check is to have a timing light with you to check for spark next time y0u get the no start condition. If it shows a spark then investigate the fuel system if it has no spark then its time to look at the ignition system. Until then just wait it out... removing the heat from the box through a fresh air blower is not a fix for anything, if your cooling system is working correctly you can remove more heat from that engine with the unlimited amount of cool water available than you could ever remove by blowing cold air across the outside of the motor.

Hi Joe
I know you are absolutely right. Wish it were the beginning of the season. I'm anxiously awaiting spring! Meanwhile, I'm staying happy taking care of cosmetic and other minor issues.

Richard,
How about posting a picture of the pylon you have. Personally, to aid rigidity, I would avoid an adapter which adds another connection point unless this cuff is firmly attached to the pylon.

Moody Blue wrote:    Two days ago, with my hot start issue, I immediately raised the engine cover and removed the flame arrester for cooling. In 5 minutes, 10 tops, she fired with one throttle pump on the Holley. Now thinking that heat needs to be removed from the engine compartment.

I agree with Joe. 5-10 minutes will not make a difference in how much the engine cools. Next time remove the flame arrestor even before you shut it down and look down the throat of the carb immediately thereafter. Gas dripping will cause your problem or there is another electrical issue. Component heat (like a hot coil) could be a factor but ambient heat is not your issue.
We need more info after you get a chance to investigate a little more.

Thanks everyone. Truly appreciate your knowledge and input. Can't do much with her until spring. Close look at carb will be first thing.
I've been trying to post more pics but it seems to be hit or miss. Feel like I was lucky to get the earlier ones posted.

oops. wrong way to post pics!

It seemed that when I was having the problems (which I have not fully solved yet) That the Blower was not reducing the heat but taking the extra output from the alternator and thus lowering the volts to the ignition system?

Commodore Bob

Hi Peter
    Yes, I use the "post reply" button and the tree with arrow icon. I choose my photo, hit OK to allow it to upload but then get the message "You have already selected a file with this name. Please select another file or rename". At that point, I'm not sure how to do that.    I've been able to get the photos in my file manager. I've been using my iPad and was able to get the two pics of the boat posted. Tried my main computer also. Everything flows until I get the roadblock message. I'll keep at it.

Are you able to get to the photos on your file manager? If so, I've got an easy fix.

OK C R OW for dinner the boat started and ran with the 12v 3olm coil with resistor but would not go over 3200 rpm's.

Back to the dock I pulled off the spark arrestor and saw fuel dripping from the primary on the starboard side of the carb. Now What.? Rebuild the carb? I put the old coil back on but did not have time to test before the rains came.

Commodore Bob

PS: I have to trailer my boat 22 miles to the lake.

I am thinking that I need to find a re-build kit. I see on a forum that the carb # is by the Choke?
Commodore Bob

TRBenj wrote: Agree with joe and Eddie. You're doing more harm than good by pumping the throttle if the carb is drippy. That is by far the most common culprit to the "poor hot starting" issue... Temp actually does not play a role in that case. Do as joe says and do some testing.

Yes pumping the throttle is just adding to the "flooded" condition (i.e. excess fuel in the inlet manifold and combustion chamber). Every time you pump the throttle the accelerator pump squirts more fuel into the inlet manifold. Before fuel injected cars we learnt to remedy the "flooded" condition by holding the foot to the floor (throttle plate wide open) while cranking the engine to clear.

Richard,
I don't feel that pylon you have will work for your boat. The CC's pylons are a larger diameter giving it the strength needed to be supported at the keel and then at the sole. Note on your pylon there's a support which originally would have been fastened to a deck bulkhead running port to starboard giving it the needed support close to the ring and finger. Take a look at the diary's and brochures to see the larger diameter CC used. Your's will bend and could be a big problem.