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rough idle/stall

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64stang View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 64stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2012 at 11:27pm
If it is a blocked passage in the metering block, can it be cleaned or flushed out somehow, or is replacement the smart thing to do?

Thanks for the help.

Mark
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2012 at 12:51am
Sure it can be cleaned out - you may have to use a wire to make sure it is open. I only mentioned the replacement because then you know it's good, & wouldn't have to take it apart twice if you missed something.    FYI - This root cause is still just a guess on my part!

Holley 134-128 - Replacement Metering Block
Summit Racing - $46.95
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote watrski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2012 at 12:46pm
There is a point where it just makes more sense to throw your old carb on ebay and replace it with new.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2012 at 1:03pm
Originally posted by watrski watrski wrote:

There is a point where it just makes more sense to throw your old carb on ebay and replace it with new.


I agree. Or keep it for odds and ends parts, or dissect it for science.

Although, it seems like a lot of guys have been fighting crappy brand new needle and seats this season. Not sure if anyone has a good line on the best quality replacements.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2012 at 1:41pm
Originally posted by Bri892001 Bri892001 wrote:

]
I agree. Or keep it for odds and ends parts, or dissect it for science.

Although, it seems like a lot of guys have been fighting crappy brand new needle and seats this season. Not sure if anyone has a good line on the best quality replacements.

When I rebuilt my two Carter YH side drafts, I got the kits from Daytona Parts. The kits came with a proprietary needle and seat that I understand is included in all their kits. Instead of the traditional needle in a hole, their design is a flat rubber against a annular ring. They claim it doesn't plug up. So far so good with my YH's. I wonder if they have a kit for the 4160?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2012 at 2:04pm
Pete, just checked, it looks like Daytona Parts at least lists a kit for Holley 4160s.
http://www.daytonaparts.com/findyourcarb.html
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2012 at 3:04pm
I wrote to Daytona through their contact page, asking if they have Holley Kits that include the special valve. They confirmed they do, and wrote back with this:

Quote Brian! Yes, our alcohol resistant Marine kits also come with the Daytona Float Valve as standard. By the way, Holley has discontinued all of their Marine and Automotive aftermarket kits. These kits were NOT made by Holley, but packaged for them by Walker Products in LA, for the last 10 years. Because of problems with the quality of parts used by Walker, Holley chose to discontinue the whole line. We do make Marine Kits for most any application in Inboards from the mid 1930's up to present day. All we need is the Holley list number, to get the correct repair kit. Let us know if we can be of service.
Thank You!
RON
DAYTONA PARTS COMPANY
1191 TURNBULL BAY ROAD
NEW SMYRNA BEACH, FL 32168
PH:386-427-7108
FX:386-423-8528
www.daytonaparts.com
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-19-2012 at 2:11pm
Originally posted by watrski watrski wrote:

There is a point where it just makes more sense to throw your old carb on ebay and replace it with new.


Yes I am at this point I believe. So for now I borrow a good friends spare, confirm that is the problem and then just get a new one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GrumpyGeoff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-19-2012 at 6:22pm
Hi, what was the end result? We have the same problem, A merican V8 bits are a bit dear over here, particularly with the word marine in front. All the blogs on this forum say the same, timing 10 degrees, yep, done that with a strobe, spot on mechanical advance is working, fitted replacement carb kit complete with needles and seats, swapped primary with secondary seats and needles, no different. This seems to be the most common complaint with Pleasurecraft marine units.
Perhaps someone out there who has had these problems and has solved them could give us the diffinitive answer and not just give suggestions that they've read on utube!!
MMM i wonder if we could use a Webber and forget the Holly as a water feature in the garden pond mmm think i'll stop now, the red wines going to my head and the boat's driving me nuts, we just want it on the water and i want it off my drive so i can get in my garage and do my own boat, nice simple ford 1600 powered 120 hp, 14' long and i don't need a 4x4 to pull it or a petrol tanker on the beach, that's why they call me Grumpy Geoff.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-19-2012 at 6:29pm
well I think the problem is many people have similar issues but they arent always caused by the same thing. I am going to swap carbs and see if that helps me narrow it down. Once I do I will report back.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GrumpyGeoff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-20-2012 at 6:28am
I've had a suggestion from this site to put a low pressure regulator in the fuel line after the pump, 1 to4 psi. I will try that and let you know over the weekend. Cheers Geoff
....Don't have children, unless you plan to win the lottery anytime soon!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2012 at 5:58pm
Ok so upon further inspection what is happening is fuel is only coming from one side of the carb. When I give it the gas I think the accelerator pump kind of masks the problem but at an idle or low rpm no fuel is coming from the port side. I took apart the carb and was able to shoot carb cleaner through the passage ways. I didn't see anything plugged. Would a vacuum leak cause that to happen? One side have gas and not the other? Seems like the cylinders on the starboard were rich and the port were lean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 64stang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-21-2012 at 6:12pm
Hi Jllogan

How were you able to determine that no fuel was coming through the port side? I can't see that fuel because of the plates. Would I be able to tell if I screwed the air mixture screw in all the way?

Thanks

Mark
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oletela Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2012 at 1:38pm
I had found a re manufactured carb locally at a carb shop and put that on Friday. It is like night and day difference, no hesitation and all she wants to do is go!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2012 at 2:09pm
I applied just enough throttle to activated the jets so I could see fuel coming out. It should be dead even. At 1000 nothing was coming from port at 1200 it was just dripping, it really didn't even out until 1500. At that point the engine creates enough vacuum to overpower the leak.

Fresh gaskets and I was back in business. Running and idleing smooth now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2012 at 2:10pm
Originally posted by Oletela Oletela wrote:

I had found a re manufactured carb locally at a carb shop and put that on Friday. It is like night and day difference, no hesitation and all she wants to do is go!


It's marine right?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oletela Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-22-2012 at 2:28pm
Yes it is, he has several left on the shelf if interested
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2012 at 11:27am
good deal! We got the boat out and ran it about 5 hours yesterday, no problems so far, ha except I think my neutral safety switch burnt up. So I need to do a little research on the site and fix it. Had to do a little hotwiring on the lake but thankfully I have everything running so well a quick bump of the starter and it was running again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2012 at 11:33am
Justin,
I'm glad to hear it's running! For the NSS, get the Ohm meter on it. Take at least one wire off the switch. In neutral you should get a near zero Ohm reading. Fill us in on what you find.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2012 at 12:45pm
Originally posted by 64stang 64stang wrote:

Hi Jllogan

How were you able to determine that no fuel was coming through the port side? I can't see that fuel because of the plates. Would I be able to tell if I screwed the air mixture screw in all the way?

Thanks

Mark


If you can't see your booster venturis, your choke plate could be the thing that's blocking. Is it opening all the way when it's warm?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jllogan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2012 at 12:49pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Justin,
I'm glad to hear it's running! For the NSS, get the Ohm meter on it. Take at least one wire off the switch. In neutral you should get a near zero Ohm reading. Fill us in on what you find.


righto, Ill do it tonight and report back.
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