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Sherwood RWP stripped bolt

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hughman View Drop Down
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    Posted: June-20-2012 at 3:54pm
Hello- 1981 Ski Nautique, overheated due to bad impeller or 30 year old hoses. Amazing it had not happened before now. Replaced hoses, changed oil and filter, installing new impeller in RWP, I stripped one of the 3 bolts on the rear housing when reassembling-luckily not the one with the screw above it. I was thinking of getting a longer bolt and grinding a nut to fit on the outside of the housing... does anyone see this as a problem or have a different solution other than re-tapping or replacing the pump? Thanks-
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-20-2012 at 4:07pm
This has come up before, and I've never seen a clear answer. The last post I read, the drill through option couldn't be done because of clearance issues, you're saying there wouldn't be a clearance issue here.

I'd say the only unknown, is whether or not there is water jacket area behind where the bolt normally stops. If not, and there probably isn't, then you should be fine to drill through and do a bolt with a nut.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hughman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-20-2012 at 4:13pm
Thanks-Guess I might have tightened too much, housing metal is not steel, seems like cast aluminum but the rest of it is steel.
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84SN2001 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 84SN2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-20-2012 at 5:47pm
I did the same thing a few years ago. I re-tapped it and haven't had a problem sense!   I guess I had to much spinach that day
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-20-2012 at 6:29pm
I am not entirely sure of the application, but have had very good luck with helicoils in the past.    drill the hole out to the recomended helicoil drill size, use the helicoil tap, and then "insert" a new thread.   works good, lasts a long time,   and both cheap and easy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hughman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-20-2012 at 6:34pm
I definately would not have come up with the helicoil idea--Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-20-2012 at 6:37pm
Originally posted by Dreaming Dreaming wrote:

I am not entirely sure of the application, but have had very good luck with helicoils in the past.    drill the hole out to the recomended helicoil drill size, use the helicoil tap, and then "insert" a new thread.   works good, lasts a long time,   and both cheap and easy

There's not enough wall thickness.

Drilling deeper into the cast bronze would be an alternate. You may be able to gain a 1/4" more of thread.

Maybe we should see if there are some torque specs from Sherwood since we sure have had a few stripped thread problems lately. I think some think they are torquing down a cylinder head!! The cover and body sealing surfaces are highly machined with ether an O ring or paper gasket.


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84SN2001 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 84SN2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-20-2012 at 6:40pm
Kris we joined the same day and year. "would you just look at that"   youtube this video and you'll get the joke, its dry humor. stupid/funny    youtube=look at this car!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-20-2012 at 9:42pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by Dreaming Dreaming wrote:

I am not entirely sure of the application, but have had very good luck with helicoils in the past.    drill the hole out to the recomended helicoil drill size, use the helicoil tap, and then "insert" a new thread.   works good, lasts a long time,   and both cheap and easy

There's not enough wall thickness.

Drilling deeper into the cast bronze would be an alternate. You may be able to gain a 1/4" more of thread.

Maybe we should see if there are some torque specs from Sherwood since we sure have had a few stripped thread problems lately. I think some think they are torquing down a cylinder head!! The cover and body sealing surfaces are highly machined with ether an O ring or paper gasket.


Good call, thus my not knowing the application.   maybe in a different situation the helicoil would work.    Must have been VERY close to edge distance minimum when manufactured?   anyway you could a picture could be posted to show what the Sherwood looks like for future reference?


Originally posted by 84SN2001 84SN2001 wrote:

Kris we joined the same day and year. "would you just look at that"   youtube this video and you'll get the joke, its dry humor. stupid/funny    youtube=look at this car!!


There you have it :) and really similar boats too.... mine is an 82, but has the later windshield
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hughman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hughman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-25-2012 at 11:31am
This was my solution: Thanks for your help.

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