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Carb Problem

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SkiLew View Drop Down
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    Posted: March-08-2005 at 3:20pm
My carb seems to have excess gas dripping into the bowl when it is shutdown. It dripps so much gas after shutting down that the carb actually will start to leak out onto the engine. But the boat seems to be running very well? Any thoughts to this problem.
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jameski View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jameski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2005 at 10:12am
Sounds like the needle-valve/seat or the float. Some people are using a wedge flange to level their carb. That makes it easier to set the float level (if you have adjustable floats).
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2005 at 11:02am
all floats are adjustable. Buy a marine carb ket and rebuild it.
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2005 at 11:52am
where's the damn spell check
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Tim D View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2005 at 4:01pm
My holley did this 2 years ago. The metering block was defective, I changed every part as far as a kit goes and it still dripped gas.
Tim D
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SkiLew View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SkiLew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2005 at 3:24pm
The Carb was rebuilt about two years ago. Could I just adjust the float without completely rebuilding the carb? And how do I adjust the float on this carb there is not an outside adjustment?
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Tim D View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tim D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2005 at 4:07pm
Do you see a flat head screw with a nut around it?
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jameski View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jameski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2005 at 5:00pm
If you don't have the flat head with the jam-nut (one on each bowl), then you will need to pull your bowl off. If you have a copper float, you can bend the tab to adjust. If you have a plastic float, you can't adjust.
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2005 at 7:04pm
Jameski why why why do you open your mouth.


Plastic or brass has nothing to do with it. Don't they both have metal tangs or runners coming out of them that make a squared off "C" shape that the needle hanges from? This is what you bend not the copper or plastic part.
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jameski View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jameski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-11-2005 at 1:00pm
Skilew,
Since your carb got a new kit 2 years ago, it may not need another whole kit, but it might be a good idea to have one handy in case you need anything. Where is the gas dripping from? The bowl vents should have J-tubes so that they drip into the venturies, not out onto the manifold. If the flooding is due to improper adjustment of your float level, then you SHOULD be able to adjust the float level by bending the metal tab on the float. While you are at it, pull your needle valve and make sure it and the seat look PERFECT. If they don’t look perfect, replace the needle AND the seat. The last time I saw a flooding problem like this, it was actually due to a tiny piece of rubber (from a fuel line) stuck in the needle valve.

79nautique,
I don’t open my mouth when I type. I’m no expert, but of the approximately 100 carburetors I’ve rebuilt, I’ve seen three types of floats: 1) all metal, 2) all plastic, 3) black synthetic cork with metal flange. Just because you have never seen one, does that mean they don’t exist? The little squared-off “C” shaped retainer wire has nothing to do with the float level adjustment. The purpose of this forum is to try to help each other out – why do you insist on being so contrary? It’s clear by comparing the number of posts on our login names who “opens his mouth” the most. Why, Why, WHY?!?!
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-12-2005 at 12:31pm
I have seen all of the styles of float you talked about and I have never seen one that you can not adjust. I just find it humorus that you've rebuilt 100's of carbs then come out and say this style cannot be adjusted but if you have this style you can.
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nates78ski View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nates78ski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-12-2005 at 3:47pm
why don't you take that piece of crap holley carb replace it with a real carb like a edelbrock marine unit.Also all that fuel dripping into the intake manifold causing an overrich fuel mixture on start up. This does wonders to the cylinder walls because of the lack lubrication on the cylinder walls.
Nathan
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79nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-12-2005 at 9:06pm
SkiLew,

What year is the engine, and exactly where is the gas leaking out on the engine. Is it coming out the air horn, throttle plate, base plate, metering block? Also how long does it sit without use and when you winterized it did you use gas stablizer?

Also just because it was re-built two years ago dosen't really mean anything and it still may need re-built. Using a non-holley kit and a can of carb cleaner is not the proper way to re-build a holley carb and expect it to last or work properly. A carb is only as good as the one re-building and adjusting it. A holy is just as good as a rochester quadrajet(edlebrock). Once you have it set correctly you realy don't have to do anything but maybe re-adjust the idle mixture screws about once a season or you have to adjust the choke stat because the spring has weakened. Just keep in mind that the re-build is going to take several hours to do, about 30-40 minutes to take apart and put back togehter and 3-8 hours soaking it in cleaner depending on how dirty it is, the longer you have to soak it to get it clean. Ya there are a lot of shade tree/hammer and chisle mechanics that will use a cheap carb kit and a can or two of carb cleaner and be done in an hour or less but the carb never works very long and you still have problems.

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SkiLew View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SkiLew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2005 at 8:58pm
Thanks to all the replies about my carb problem.

Fixed carb this weekend. Adjusted float and cleaned needle valve and seat. Just like everyone said and this seemed to have fix the problem.

Now how do I adjust the air idle screws if it is needed?

And In case I over adjusted the float does anyone know what the symptoms are if the float is set too low?
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