neutral safety switch

If your neutral safty switch goes out can that effect you starting your boat?

Yes, that is what it is for.....to prevent the engine from cranking when the transmission is in gear. It is only closed while in neutral. Remove one of the wires from the switch and attach it the the other side of the switch with the other wire and see if your boat will now crank. If it does you've found your problem. DO NOT leave it like this! Replace the switch if it is bad and wire it correctly. One more thing.....the NSS is only in the starting circuit. It dose not control current to the ignition. If your engine cranks but does not start, the NSS is not your problem. - Brian

The problem i'm having is, if i don't move the
throttle back and forth i get nothing, but if i do, i get a click sound? I change exhaust manifolds and ever since then it won't turn over. I did something crazy but i'm not sure what????   I did nothing but change the starboard manifold? I'm just dumbfounded.
The wiring diagram works. I understand, but I checked all that and still get a click?
How come you guys are not in new York????/??

scharfenberg wrote: The problem i'm having is, if i don't move the throttle back and forth i get nothing, but if i do, i get a click sound? I change exhaust manifolds and ever since then it won't turn over. I did something crazy but i'm not sure what????   I did nothing but change the starboard manifold?

Follow Brian's recommendation above regarding checking out the problem after you get the click.

Regarding moving the helm back and forth to get that click, I have a feeling that when you changed out the manifolds the shift cable was moved/repositioned just enough to make a difference. Do you have a volt/ohm meter, DMM or a test light? Start at the trans shift lever with the shift cable disconnected. Using the meter or test light connected to the NSS move the shift lever on the trans back and forth and see what happens. It may be a simple as adjusting the cable at the lever. Get back to us with what you find and if needed proceed to step two!!

I'm not in NY because I made it to the GL reunion this summer. It would be nice to go to both reunions but time is a problem. Now as far as Brian not going, take a look at what kind of boat he has - he wasn't invited!! I'm just kidding of coarse as his boat choice of boat brand wouldn't make a difference. We'll get him into a CC soon!!

I will try all of this and get back to you guys. My mechanical abillities are limited but I think I could do this. Thanks guys.

dsums wrote: I was having a similar problem with the Supreme. It started to take more and more fiddling with the throttle lever and the safety button for cold starts. I eventually bypassed the solenoid connections with a screwdriver to see if it would start and it fired right away. I went to the local auto parts store and bought a new solenoid. Five minutes labour and problem solved. Might be worth a try.

Jeff, Dale above lucked out with his problem being a solenoid and not being very expensive. (it could have been his ignition switch - known to go out) I mentioned above about step two using a volt ohm meter, DMM or a test light. If you don't have one, a cheap meter is less than $30 at the hardware store and you may find it handy around the house too. I always urge testing to determine the problem before changing out parts. It saves money and trips back and forth to the store! Don't become a "parts changer". You mentioned your abilities are limited but using a meter is pretty simple plus we're here to walk you through the testing.