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No spark!

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MdFooter View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MdFooter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2008 at 1:50am
Dude, he did that 11 posts ago, try to keep up.
KP
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wakemeup View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wakemeup Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-30-2008 at 6:39pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

well if the spark isn't strong enough to clear the boot then you really don't have a strong enough spark to fire the engine, the spark should jump a good 1/2" or so easy.

also did you ever change the ground brown wire from the distributor to the good ground source of the Block? because if you haven't then quit d*cking around untill you do ok.


Yes I moved the ground. I bought a bigger ring terminal and soldered the ground (brown wire) to it and then ran it to one of the unused threaded holes on the block that you said and attached with a bolt and washer.

What do you think of the numbers I'm getting from my coil, that is 12 volts on either side with ignition on and then it drops to 8.5 on either side with engine cranking? I just read the post from MADTOWN78 where he is asking for advice on a new coil and you commented that the wiring harness could have all kinds of screw-ups from previous splices etc. I'm thinking I might have some issues here as well.

What do you think about putting the old distributor in just to see if I get a spark? I'll have to get new points, but their cheap.

Thanks
Wakemeup

1988 Ski Nautique

1999 Air Nautique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wakemeup Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-30-2008 at 7:11pm
Originally posted by MdFooter MdFooter wrote:

George,
2) With the ignition circuit on, and the engine NOT running, the voltage to the (+)post of the coil is about 7VDC. The voltage on the (-) post of the coil is 1VDC. With the engine running, the (+) comes up to about 9.5 and the (-) about 5. Also when I applied the bug light to the (-) the motor quit due to the coil being grounded out.

That I believe is the problem. The negative post should not be reading 11V like you said. The green wire out of the distributor should not have anything else attached to it save for the tach lead at the post. If you are reading 11V on the green wire something is wrong with the distributor.



Amazing how different my numbers are from yours. I'm going to try to get another set of eyes out here to look at this.

Thanks for your help.
Wakemeup

1988 Ski Nautique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MdFooter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-31-2008 at 2:51am
George,

You shouldn't have 12V at the (+) coil if you have a ballast resistor. The resistor cuts down batt voltage on it's way to the coil so you don't cook it.

Trying the old distributor again may at least narrow things down a bit.
KP
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wakemeup Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-25-2009 at 11:03pm
I know its been a while but I finally got a spark on my boat after not touching it since August. It turns out that the brand new distributor I bought from SKIDIM was dead. Prior to finding this out I called Vince at SKIDIM and told him about all the problems I was having and he offered to test the distributor on one of his test engines. So I sent it to him and sure enough it was shot, so he sent me a brand new one and I took him up on his offer of testing it on his engine prior to sending it to me. He did that and sent it too me. I finally got around to installing it today and got a spark right away.   
The moral of this story and I know the Grand Poo Bahs have preached this: JUST BECAUSE ITS BRAND NEW DOESN'T MEAN ITS GONNA WORK! However I still couldn't get the boat to start. I have a newly rebuild carb on it and need advice on initial tuning. I am going to start a new thread. Thanks again for everyones help.
George
Wakemeup

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H2oXtremes View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H2oXtremes Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2016 at 10:08pm
OK, so I have just installed a Mallory Distributor, using the same hand drawn diagram you used. My issue is that once wired I went to turn the engine over and it sounded like the solanoid click or pop and then i lost all electrical power. The boaat didnt even get a second to turn over an inch its like as soon as I turned the key it just popped and now I have nothing.

my pic shows how I have my system wired, now granted before I did this the previous owner did not use the outgoing side of the resister or shall I say nothing was even connected to it. except the ignition wire coil wire on one post.

So I wired it like the instructions said my pink wire in the picture is going to the positive side of the coil, the blue wire is connected to the red wire of the distributor, the orange wire is the ignition.

The old distributor had two wires and both wires went to the coil negative and positive.

Any help would be great, I have a dead boat at the moment





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Duane in Indy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2016 at 11:16pm
Per Mallory instructions:
The three wires from dist
.
RED to 12 volts from Ign. Swt.
GREEN to - side of coil
BROWN to engine ground

+ side of coil is fed from ballast resistor
Keep it as original as YOU want it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeremiah2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2016 at 12:16am
H2Oextremes.

I just went thru the same symptoms your having.

I would turn the key over and hear a click and then no power to dash etc...

Turns out the battery terminals weren't getting good contact.

Good charged battery and good wires but there was just enough corrosion that any draw on the system and it would crap out.   

Clean your terminals and check your ground wire.   Fixed it for me.
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