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A 351w (stroker?) from scratch...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2007 at 1:22am
Joe, hope the tuning does some good too. Seems as tho it should have been more of a runner than it was. You had 100cubes on Reid and 80 on me.And the horsepower you quoted was 400 i beleive, you should have blown reid and i out of the water.
I did not mind loosing to reid,3 out 4,that means my boat was faster than 30 others.Reid has the top speed award ,but the 64 was the hole shot king,just could not hold him in the 55 to 56 mph speed.
I was topping out at 53, the mustang be quick when she start to bounce.Being beat out by Reid was OK.Again the red 64 ain't no slouch............boat dr

you guys don't know what you missed at G/Lake............
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote racintj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2007 at 11:27am
Joe, what kind of ignition are you running. I tried to look back and see in the post, but I didn't find it. Reason being, on my new rebuild, i noticed that I was not getting the punch I was expecting...I found it in the ignition/distributor. A little tweaking and it's got a holeshot that's pretty stout. 0 to 40 in 6 sec. That's with a crappy stock Michigan 13 13 or OJ (I forgot). Anyway, give me your rundown on the motor again. I know you were changing cams and compression and other stuff. What did you end up with?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2007 at 12:23pm
Its running a brand new dui, I have yet to power tune it, just have it set at 8 for now with 24 degrees of advance for a total of 32. Will probably try 10 degrees initial once the new prop is installed.

Finished compression ended up being 9.4 to 1 after doing more chamber material removal than originally hoped to get rid of some sharp points.

The cam is relatively mild for the build because I will spend a majority of time wakeboarding at low rpms with big weight it is most likely the limiting factor on the high end.

As it sits after the vacuum spring switch with the 541 prop and the 750 cfm I can pin both airguides (not that that means much) and still pull another 150-200 rpm.

With the new prop and new carb that are en route I hope I will have my solid 52-53 I am shooting for and then quit screwing around with it and go skiing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote racintj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2007 at 5:15pm
I don't have the cubes you do, nor the roller cam. I still don't know your cam specs. I ended advancing on the high side of 10 degrees, with about 35 degrees total advance (took some spring changes and some grinding of weights). With your compression, heads and cam, I would imagine it will like a little more timing as well. I think that I am leaning toward the 541 as well, but I don't want to turn too many RPMs. Which prop and carb are you getting?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2007 at 5:41pm
Originally posted by racintj racintj wrote:

   With your compression, heads and cam, I would imagine it will like a little more timing as well.


Uhm, No mr speedracerman
I concur try a few more, but stay less final than the stock 351W.
Both higher compression and faster piston speeds due the stroking needs less advance. Given the same CR, 289/302s like 37-38 degrees, 351's 35-36 and strokers even less.

As CR is increased, due to static CR and/or better VE, the flame front travels faster, resulting in less advance needed.

In summary, the compression, heads, cam and stroke will require less total advance than when he started. To keep a crisp holeshot the span on the advance will need to be reduced from the typical 351 else just turning the distributer to get the best final will likely not provide enough initial for a good low rpm launch.

I think Joe you are on track with your 2-degree step, to get 10/34 then analyze the results both low and high.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2007 at 6:02pm
The new prop is an acme 431 (13x13x.080). The carb is a 650 cfm bg marine demon mechanical secondary, I still may keep the 750 cfm holley vacuum secondary if I can get it tuned better (so far I have only switched the springs on the vacuum secondary and have a long way to go) but I borrowed a 650 cfm barry grant when I had it on the dyno and it was a considerable improvement over the untuned holley. My cam specs are 224/230 at .050 114 seperation, and .533/.544. Gottaski probably has it right on the timing most 408's that have been documented in the various mags ended up right at about 34 being optimum, thats why I started at 8 since I didn't have time to play with it yet. I am hoping not to have to get into the springs of the freshly curved dui, but it is possible I will need to reduce the mechanical advance spread to really get it to jump out of the hole.

-Joe.
1983 Ski Nautique 2001
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote racintj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-18-2007 at 8:15pm
Gotta, thanks for the lesson in Geometrics, but I should have been a little more clear. I didn't mean more than what I have, I meant a little more than he has now...Hence, 10 degrees initial and 34 final. I do however enjoy learning more and more about these Fords each day.

Joe, I have heard good things about the BG Marine, and I am curious about your findings. I know that he knows carbs, and has done wonders for the drag racing venue. I was looking at the 431, but I don't think I can turn it hard enough. That's quite a bit of cam, did you ever get a good pull on the dyno? I would love to see HP/TQ curves. I hope you get it all sorted out, and then have a blast on the water.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2007 at 11:51am
racintj,
    I did get some a couple dyno pulls, and will put up the hp/torque curves when I get ambitious enough to type in all the data into excel as all I got was printouts.

Hopefully we are about at the end of this process, I have installed the 650cfm mighty demon marine carb and the new acme 431 propellor (13x13, .080 cup).

Out of the box with the timing at 10/34 she runs in the low 4900rpm area with me in it. I am pretty happy with that. I dont know what the actual top speed is, the perfect pass hits 47 at about 4450 rpm and then stays at 47 up till 4900 rpm, where it flirts with 47.1. Both airguides are pinned tight by 4650 rpm but are less than accurate at that point. My guess is it is breaking into the 50's slightly.   

My intial timing is a little low for optimal hole shot, performance distributors wants me to sent it back to be recurved I am reluctant to lose it for a couple days but dont want to mess too much with changing the settings on the mechanical secondaries and squirter shot sizes until its right, it has a great holeshot but a little inconsitant and with a small bog. I think it can be tuned to an unreal holeshot.

Quick notes on the carb, there is no choke or choke tower, so far I dont miss it with no adjustments and the same set of cruddy plugs I have used throughout the break in/dyno process it still starts first bump after sitting overnight and idles as low as the damper plate will allow right off the bat. I May change my mind on this in the fall when it is colder out.

It is a mechanical secondary carb, currently the secondary is coming in at about 2900rpm (32 mph). I am going to try to put that off till 37-38 mph to make slalom ski speeds more steady with the perfect pass, as it doesnt currently hold as steady as it used to. There are also settings on the perfect pass I could change to affect the damping rate but I would rather not screw around with those.                                 

So a distributor recurve, some adjustments to the secondaries, and a bunch of plug chops and jet changes, then one last oil change at 15 total hours where I will switch to synthetic and hopefully we can call it done.


-joe.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2007 at 12:13pm
Joe, maybe i missed something one the carb thing.Most mech.secondaries are controlled by degrees of rotation aka throttle shaft.How is it that you can vary yours to a specific rpm???
My second question is in regards to propping.
My 331 will pull a 13x13 OJ 4Force 5500rpm's.
Stock 600 Holley, stock Mallory @ 34 degrees.
Even w/.120 cup ,I only got 51mph out of 5500 rpm's. GPS speed and AutoMeter guages.Something don't sound right w/your combo.
Prop now is a 12x14=5100@ 54 mph
Again something don't geehaw with your numbers and the fact you say your producing 400 hp your prop would be more like a 13x 15 or larger............boat dr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-23-2007 at 1:28pm
Good morning billy,
     You can change how far into the throttle rotation the secondaries come on with changes to the linkages between the two both up and down, there are also progressive and direct linkages. If it opens the secondarys later in the throttle rotation it would be good. alternately it could open them earlier and that wouldnt be bad, but to have have them opening right at slalom speeds makes it touchy to hold speed.

The difference in props between yours and mine is substancial. (ignoring the fact my prop turns the wrong way) My boat came standard with an oj 13 x13, and the recommended acme replacement for that 13 x 13 is either a 540 which is (13x12) or a 542 (13 x 11.5). If I turn the 540 equiv I get about approx 1mph of speed for 100 rpms at most planing speeds although things get sketchy at the high end with that 1 to 100 relationship. The prop I have now is the 431 which is a big cnc prop like the 540 series, it dropped my rpm by 250 at 21mph (1850), 350 at 36mph (3300), and so forth till my speedos become unreliable. My horsepower curve did peak at 4700-4800 with this setup (mostly cam limited, maybe manifolds/mufflers a bit) so since I am into the low 4900's I could increase another half inch maybe if I get a lot more out of tuning an inch but then we would be affecting holeshot significantly. My gut feeling is my current acme 13x13 is about equivilent to your 12x14 in regards to speed vs mph.

My motor in your boat would need a bigger prop but I have 2.5 more feet, 3 more fins, and 50 percent more weight than your skier with only 23 percent more motor displacement.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JR_VIC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-27-2007 at 2:44am
Originally posted by JoeinNY JoeinNY wrote:

racintj,
    


My intial timing is a little low for optimal hole shot, performance distributors wants me to sent it back to be recurved I am reluctant to lose it for a couple days but dont want to mess too much with changing the settings on the mechanical secondaries and squirter shot sizes until its right, it has a great holeshot but a little inconsitant and with a small bog. I think it can be tuned to an unreal holeshot.

-joe.


Joe,

I am also running a DUI HEI style marine distributor on my 1992 351W Ford. If you have not sent your distributor back to DUI yet you may want to hold on to it for another week or so untill I get my testing done.

Long story short...I recently upgraded to a Cam research camshaft, new lifters, push rods, roller rockers, and AFR heads. After initial testing the stock 600 Holley was running the rear bowl dry on the top end. I installed a new Demon 650 Marine vacum secondary carb and once up on plane the carb runs great but I have also had a small bog at tip in and seems a little rich at idle. After extensive internet searching I found a guy out in Oregon named Don Gould at FBO systems. He is a big Mopar and Ford Cobra roadster guy that specailizes in Demon carb tuning. Here is his link...
http://www.4secondsflat.com/

Don states that to properly tune a Demon carb you have to first 100% dial in your timing before you can accurately adjust the carb. One of his methods he prescribes is a test to find out where your initial timing should be followed by having the distributor recurved accordingly. Without going into great details, when I performed his test on my engine I found that the initial timing at idle on MY particular engine (everyone's engine can be drastically different) needs to be 22 degrees before the mechanical advance kicks in at 2600 RPM bringing the total advance to 35 degrees where it was before. It is the initial timing that has been altered so much and not the total timing advance. I should have the distributor in the morning and hopefully will have it dropped in over the weekend. Check out his website and he has a Demon carb tuning guide you can buy for $10 which I personally found to be a great read for my limited experience tinkering with carbs. I'll share my results with you after I go out and run the boat to let you know if I am going in the right direction etc.

Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-27-2007 at 1:36pm
"Quick notes on the carb, there is no choke or choke tower, so far I dont miss it with no adjustments and the same set of cruddy plugs I have used throughout the break in/dyno process it still starts first bump after sitting overnight and idles as low as the damper plate will allow right off the bat. I May change my mind on this in the fall when it is colder out."

Joe, you won't need the choke. I run a jet boat with Holley with no choke, I ran it into November last year. You just use the accelerator pumps for your choke, pump the throttle a few times before starting, a few more times in the first 20 seconds and you'll hold idle OK.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-27-2007 at 2:07pm
22 degrees inital will surely give hot-start problems. Consider setting so the advance comes on early and strong.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-03-2008 at 10:53pm
Well here we go on year two of the stroker build, rebuild, and tune process.

The new Hiteks are in and fit up well


they were custom made to clear the tall valve covers


they were also ordered to match the exhaust ports of my aftermarket cylinder heads, in this picture you can see the difference in size between the standard head exhaust ports and the size of the ones on the hiteks



I am also changing the cam this year and while it is apart I am using the opportunity to port match the intake manifold as last year I ran out of time so I assumed close enough.

There is actually a significant amount of material that needs to be removed as seen here



Here is the right tool to start the job



Do not attempt to do this with a grinding stone, a good carbide bit and a die grinder is key as is eye protection.

First one looking good


Second one not bad either



The third one went ok, but things were getting sloppy on the fourth one

first I let the grinder jump across the gasket surface not one but three times



and then disaster hit





Well that was about it for today, tomorrow I have to get the other side and go to the welding supply store...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-08-2008 at 4:39pm
Progress report, Sunday I fixed the manifold and finished the port matching. I thought I took pictures but apparently the memory card was still in the computer and not in the camera. Yesterday I got to work installing the new cam research roller camshaft.



Here is the block stripped down to accept the new cam.






Then we skip to after my gloved hands were no longer covered with assembly lube, which unfortunately changed my plan to take pictures of all the intermediate steps.

The components here are tristate cylinder heads iron flow heads with 3/8 studs, Scorpion roller rockers, isky guide plates and pushrods, the red gunk is comp cams assembly lub.











Last one showing the tie bar retrofit hyd. roller lifters from ford racing.



Some progress but I have done three brake jobs in two days for friends and family and its definitely putting me behind schedule...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-08-2008 at 7:07pm
Joe, I didn't know what to say after your last post...glad you're back on track! Was the RR roller cam as big of a deal as it was with mine? I sure wish I had pulled that off.

Mighty ambitious to be doing a stringer and engine job + keeping up with life and helping friends! I am humbled.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-08-2008 at 7:18pm
Greg, Joes stroker is a lefty- so no RH roller issues. I think he's got plans to mate a 1.23 to it for the RH prop.

Joe, Im eager to see how performance improves with the new cam, porting and Hi-teks. Should be very interesting! I love the red powdercoat on the Hiteks, by the way.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-08-2008 at 7:19pm
There is no RR Roller Cam for ford either, this stroker is std rotation which involves a new transmission, new drive shaft, new mounts, and a new prop so its still a pretty big deal.

Oh and its a stringer floor carpet, engine upgrade, stereo upgrade and tower install this year







Trying to be done by June 1st... going to take a bit of luck.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-08-2008 at 7:31pm
On more levels than one, I keep thinking "10lbs in a 5lb sack"!

God's speed!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-08-2008 at 7:32pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Greg, Joes stroker is a lefty- so no RH roller issues. I think he's got plans to mate a 1.23 to it for the RH prop.

Joe, Im eager to see how performance improves with the new cam, porting and Hi-teks. Should be very interesting! I love the red powedercoat, by the way.


I am interested myself, its too bad I will be changing so much at once esp. with the trans and prop to really know what, if anything, has the greatest effect.

I got a few other enhancements ready this year too but at this point I am most worried about the floor and stringers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-10-2008 at 1:29am
Slowly but surely,

Manifold after the repair


I think I have finally figured out a place for this monster to mount



This is the last step of the porting process cleaning up the ports with an 80 grit drum using a dremal with a flex extension.



Finished port





I spent way more time than I care to think about prepping the manifold for paint. I have never had any luck keeping an as cast finish manifold looking good, this one was no exception lots of wiring brushing to remove oxidation, some sandblasting of crevices, and a bunch of time with acetone and a rag, then finally masking off all the gasket and interior surfaces.

Used Duplicolor engine paint trying to match as close as possible the red on the mainifolds, its close but hopefully it dries closer. Going to get cold here again for a bit so this was my last day to paint for a week without turning on the heater.










Used the light to provide enough heat to dry them to the touch before calling it a night

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-10-2008 at 9:20am
i look at every picture in detail and do say that you do nice work, it seems that everything is coming along nicely
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote reidp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-10-2008 at 6:55pm
Wow! That thing is gonna be screaming at GL. Screaming "slow down Reid and wait for me!". Just kidding. It's looking super and I'm digging the black and red.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-10-2008 at 11:12pm
the things you guys gotta do to keep up with a bowtie lol
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-15-2008 at 1:31am
Well not so much progress this weekend as life got in the way with the first bonfire/party weekend of the season







It was worth the setback on the project...





but I got back into it today, here is the manifold installed





picture of the timing cover gasket applied to the block with contact cement



I finished putting on the timing cover and then set the valve covers, carb, dist, and a hitek on just to preview the look







That was about it, then I spent two hours cleaning the shop and getting ready for the next phase, The coosa board for the stringers and floor came in today and there is a 351 lb series of packages halfway between here and UScomposites, weather here is finally forecasted to be in the sixties so hopefully its game on again.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MaddMarxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-15-2008 at 5:30am
Joe...you go boy, how many of those girls are going to Gl with you? And what boat is that motor going in? Is that paint or powder on the hi-teks whatever it is, it looks good!

keep up the good work, and you will be smoken Reid soon!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-15-2008 at 8:47am
Joe, When you port match, how do you get the outline of the corresponding port. I have seen carbon paper used but wanted to know if you had a better trick.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-15-2008 at 8:55am
Looking good Joe...nice touch with the ARP's in the intake!

And a bunch of cuties at your party, but I bet thay all have funny accents?!!? LOL
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Joined: October-19-2005
Location: United States
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Points: 5693
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-15-2008 at 11:55am
Some people up early around here, except Mark I am guessing he was up late.
Mark.. I doubt I will be asking any of those particular young ladies along on a 13 hour drive to a weekend camping trip to look at old boats anytime soon. I suppose there are two of them, not saying which, that would be able to enjoy the event. The others, well lets just say they were wearing stillettos at the camp fire the other nite. That engine is going back in the same slow 83 Ski Nautique it came out of, and the hi-teks are powder coated which is how they were ordered, and by dumb luck they happen to match the valve covers and the rattle can painted intake manifold pretty well.

Pete,
    I use the fairly expensive destroy a pair of gaskets in the process method. I glued (super glue) in a couple places (maybe 6 quarter inch dots each along the top) the gaskets to the heads then applied contact cement to the manifold and gasket surfaces then bolted the manifold down. Remove the manifold after dry and hopefully the gasktes are now on the intake in the right spot. After that I just used a black sharpie to mark the area to be removed and then removed the gasket. After when I installed it I contact cemented the gaskets to the heads then installed the manifold with a thin layer of rtv around the water passages. I left the gaskets about a 64th smaller than the ports on the head side so if its off a bit I dont have any ledges. Its a fairly amatuer job but there was soo much material removed it can't hurt. The wieand manifold has large runners that were purposefully restricted at the ports to allow for port matching. Usually it takes a lot of work to maintain the same width and height of the port for an inch an a half into the manifold, in this case the runner opened up by itself right beyond the ports so it was a lot less material to remove.

Greg, The arp's are a hold over from last year, none of those girls have an accent.. but they would be hotter if they did..
1983 Ski Nautique 2001
1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
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eric lavine View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah


Joined: August-13-2006
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 13413
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-15-2008 at 12:30pm
heck with the stroker, tell us about the bonfire lol, had to scroll past the pics this morning....it was a wife thing
"the things you own will start to own you"
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