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Stringer Replacement 86 Silver Nautique. |
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TRBenj 
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Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21109 |
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 Topic: Stringer Replacement 86 Silver Nautique.Posted: April-23-2024 at 11:03am |
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The stringer notches under the motor mounts are larger on the engine side in order to accomodate either engine option (Chevy mounts are several inches further forward than Ford Windsor).
The gentle angles are easier to glass, and therefore stronger. The larger than needed notches also make it easier to get a hand or wrench on the back side of those motor mount bolts. |
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KENO
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Posted: April-23-2024 at 8:16am |
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Once upon a time you uploaded a picture of your boat using IMGBB (back in the "Elephant" thread).so I know you can do it
 I guess for some reason you went back to the site process which isn't any better than it ever was and it was always a bit challenging just to put it in nice terms. Ever since using IMGBB, I haven't had any pictures rotate when posting And it's easier to do and works no matter what you're posting from. I could go on but you must have your reasons for wanting to use the site process and make everybody look at sideways pictures and get a sore neck . |
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andrewmarani
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Posted: April-23-2024 at 8:03am |
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i'm using the forum picture uploader. Looking back at my pictures it looks like the forum wants them to be wider than they are tall. When I upload a picture taken from that aspect, it doesn't rotate. When I upload a picture that's more tall than wide, it rotates it. Not really a big deal, was just a puzzle.
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KENO
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Posted: April-23-2024 at 7:16am |
How are you uploading pictures to the site? Are you using the CCF upload feature or something else?
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andrewmarani
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Posted: April-22-2024 at 10:00pm |
I cannot figure out why half the time the picture rotates 90 degrees when I upload it. Bow flooring is epoxied down and all the tubes/pipes/vents installed, which you can see in the photo. I’ve test fitted the engine frame. Needed some sanding on the stringers to get it in place, ending with a good snug fit. Leaving an 1/8” more between the main stringers would have made life easier. Originally the frame was lagged down from the top but I’m going to run bolts through the sides, seems more secure. As a side note: I put the notches in the stringers to match the original, including the locations of the notches for the engine mount bolts. This was a mistake, the front engine mount bolt notches are much longer than needed and the back notches too tight. I have way too much space on the front notches and I had to sand out and then re-glass the front part of the back notches to get a bit more clearance for those bolts. In addition, the front of all the notches are sloped, for no reason I can discern. Better plan is to make the notches run about 1 ½” past the bolt locations in the engine frame and make the ends of the notches vertical with rounded corners at the bottom and top of the vertical cuts. I will go back and edit my posting on the stringer layout. I’m using fairing compound (pale green stuff in picture) to smooth out the bilge prior to using a TotalBoat bilge paint on it. Doesn't show in the picture but i used west systems faring compound to make a flowable fill and filled in a weird ditch in the bilge right against the transom (roughly 3/4" deep, 8" long and 1" wide running along the transom, no idea why it was there) and a water puddling spot between the rudder post and the reinforced area for the shaft log. Once the bilge is painted, I will install the engine frame, then finish installing the floor, finish foaming and install the carpet. Then I can have the marine repair shop where the engine is stored drop it into place on the frame. Figure I’ve got 3 to 4 weeks before I can get the engine installed. I try not to think too much about all the stuff left to do before summer and concentrate just on the next couple of steps… |
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1980SN2001
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Joined: August-01-2022 Location: Rocklin, CA Status: Offline Points: 96 |
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Posted: April-11-2024 at 4:02pm |
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I also used something like what your holding in the picture at the transition from floor to wall. I got it from tools4flooring.com and it was called Burke 153.
https://www.tools4flooring.com/burke-153-3-8-black-cerco-bar-12-length.html |
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Faceplant
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Posted: March-29-2024 at 9:06pm |
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Please keep us posted. I might be interested also.
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Feels like I am hanging 10 but in reality - probably hanging 6.
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andrewmarani
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Posted: March-26-2024 at 11:27am |
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Ordered a sample of this stuff by Trim-Lok. Might work a bit better plus I like the included 3M adhesive tape.
 EDIT: OK, bought a foot of it and I'm not impressed. The vertical section will cover a bit under a 1/4" of the side carpet, which works fine. The floor side will catch about 1/16" of the floor carpet, which is never going to work, there's no way i'm going to be able to cut the floor carpet that neatly. So NOT using this stuff.
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andrewmarani
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Posted: March-26-2024 at 11:13am |
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It's not difficult to solve, I can definitely make it work. it's just frustrating to me that something that's actually designed for this issue isn't available, I can be a bit ocd about details. I will turn the side carpet onto the floor a half inch to get it under that lip on the right side in the picture so it doesn't ravel.
The trim originally used on the boat and the one at Nautique Parts are designed for a carpet to VCT floor transition, flooring subcontractors we work with use it all the time. FYI a 12' length on Nautique Parts is $83. Same stuff in a choice of colors is $23 on line. |
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TRBenj
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Posted: March-25-2024 at 9:55pm |
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Nothing really tucks under from the wall carpet. Not sure why this is so confusing. It’s been several years since cc has been putting carpet in boats- not sure what you’d hope to learn. They used the trim in question at least ‘80-09, should still be available to buy from Nautique parts and others. Not exactly a mystery.
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andrewmarani
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Posted: March-25-2024 at 10:46am |
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The trim that came with the boat is a 1/2" thick, maybe a touch more and sits flat on the floor. There's no spot to tuck the side carpet into it unless I turn the side carpet out onto the floor a half inch or so.
See the picture above. left side is where the floor carpet tucks into the trim. Right side goes against the side of the boat and tapers down to less than a 1/4" and is designed for carpet to tuck under it. I spent sometime on line looking at boat carpet trim and nothing is designed for a floor to side transition, don't really see boats with carpet on the sides much at all. I did find some trim that matches the old trim in the picture above, so if I need to go that route I will likely buy new stuff since it should be more flexible than the very stiff stuff I took off the boat. A picture of a relatively new Nautique showing how they currently handle that trim would be nice. Assuming CC still runs carpet up the sides of the boat. Thanks Andrew
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TRBenj
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Posted: March-25-2024 at 10:32am |
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Not following your thoughts on the carpet trim. Walls should be cut at the floor, the trim sits up almost 1/2” and will cover that edge no problem. Floor should be cut 1/2-1” away from the wall so it tucks cleanly into the trim channel.
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KENO
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Posted: March-23-2024 at 4:57pm |
On those year boats like yours, with rotary helms, you don't need to pull that 16 inch bar forward and around any corners to get the cable out. You remove it by pulling it out of the support tube at the back disconnecting the cable at the helm, taping a rope about 20 ft long or so and a plastic bag around the cable at the front end and pulling it out from the rear. Going back in, you tape the new cable end to the rope that's in the tube and pull it forward with the rope. The big awkward rear end never has to go around any sharp bends In the condition you're in right now, snake a rope through for when it's time to pull the cable through. If it was rack and pinion steering, then it's a different story
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andrewmarani
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Posted: March-23-2024 at 4:50pm |
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Bought 8’-6” wide carpet and tested it in the boat today. Not ready to install, still need to finish epoxying the floor down and install the foam. I was worried the 8’-6” wide carpet wouldn’t be wide enough to run up the sides but that turned out fine. I was hoping to be able to wrap the carpet up the sides without cutting. I think that would work starting at the back and getting about halfway to the front of the boat but after that the curve and flair of the side is going to create folds, so that plan is out. I’m going to have to cut it at the floor to side transition like was done originally. I was going to trim the carpet to fit today but I think it will work better if I glue the carpet down to maybe 6” from the sides, leave the last 6” loose and then cut it at the floor to side transition. Nothing moves during or after the cutting that way.
The original carpet trim strips are definitely not made for a 90 degree turn up the sides, CC just kind of made it work. If I reuse them I think I need to actually turn the side carpet out onto the floor a half inch or so to get it under the trim strip so the carpet doesn’t ravel. The floor carpet then slips into the trim on the other side. Does anyone have a source for a carpet trim strip that’s designed for a floor to side transition? Seems like a normal detail and there should be a trim piece for the 90 degree transition.
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andrewmarani
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Posted: March-23-2024 at 11:59am |
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Originally the wire harness, speed tubes, steering and throttle cables and the bilge pump tube all ran in one pipe from engine to the bow. I’ve broken those into individual pipe chases for ease of repairs in the future, creating the need for some creative pipe bending using heat. And lots of different holes in the bow floor and that bulkhead behind the battery box. The steering cable has a 16” stainless bar on the end so the 2” pipe has two very light bends in it so the pipe can turn up through the bow floor and still allow the bar to slide through. At this point, all the flooring is cut and fit. With all the Coosa in place, I have a nice flat floor with only the pylon interrupting it. Next step is to test fit the carpet I bought while nothing is in the way.
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andrewmarani
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Posted: February-25-2024 at 10:45am |
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Picture shows a test fit of the two front sections of floor with the driver’s seat in place and the fit around the installed battery box. I needed to check where my feet landed when sitting in the seat to make sure my size 13's missed the vent tubes and other pipes i will discuss shortly. I won't have the airbox with it's sloping footrest so I also needed to locate a footrest I will make from some old mahogany gym bleacher wood I have laying around. I will epoxy some stainless T nuts into the Coosa floor so the footrest is removable.
When this thing is done, removing two bolts from the observers seat base and two bolts from the foot rest will give under the bow deck access like you see in the picture. I've spent enough time under there over the years to want easy, clear access. Even the drivers seat has T nuts and machine screws holding it down and can be pulled, though that's more complicated.
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TRBenj
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Posted: February-24-2024 at 8:01am |
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Interesting. IMO, any path that allows water to drain also allows water to enter… I have thoughts on which I think is more likely!
16-20oz carpet would have been original. The thicker the carpet, the more plush it feels, and the more water it holds. |
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andrewmarani
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Posted: February-23-2024 at 10:00pm |
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Need some carpet suggestions. I did some searches and turned up https://marinecarpeting.com. Anyone buy carpet from someplace they like? Looks like 20 oz is standard. Depending on cost any reason not to go to 24 oz?
They also have Shaw indoor outdoor carpeting. That's a manufacturer subs i work with use on job sites. I might be able to buy that from a sub I know and get a better price. Anyone work with Shaw? Previous searches turned up DAP Weldwood All Weather Outdoor Carpet Adhesive to glue it down. anyone have pros or cons? Thanks Andrew |
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andrewmarani
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Posted: February-23-2024 at 6:35pm |
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yeah, I cut round holes in four locations in each of the stringers at the base where they hit the hull. So the main stringer has two holes that go through it from foam side to bilge side and the secondary has four that would allow water to flow down toward the primary. I planned to use the cotton rope to wick out any moisture that formed inside the foamed areas. After seeing the foam and how tight it forms up and grips the fiberglass, nothing is getting in or out of those holes. Waste of time installing them and the cotton wick. I had to use a block of wood hitting the end of a drywall spackle knife to cut that blob you see in the bilge free of the fiberglass.
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TRBenj
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Posted: February-23-2024 at 5:22pm |
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Do you have drains for foam filled cavities? Meaning bilge water has a direct path to foam?
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andrewmarani
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Posted: February-23-2024 at 2:31pm |
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To create the template for the bow floor, I set a thin straight piece of wood from battery box to point of the bow at the elevation of the floor then marked the side to side dimensions every 6”. I transferred that to a piece of cardboard to get close and then test fit and scribed lines on the cardboard till it fit neatly under the bow. Transferred that to the Coosa, after a bunch of test fits and some sanding I got a nice fit for the Bow floor.
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andrewmarani
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Posted: February-22-2024 at 4:46pm |
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Getting the battery box installed at the right elevation and location was a planning challenge but execution was easy. My solution was to recess the battery box flange into the Coosa, set that section of flooring in place loose, epoxy the battery box to the Coosa and down to the hull. That beige epoxy infill I Installed to stop trapping water under the battery box hits the depressed drain in the box, causing the back of the battery box to sit a ¼” high. Dishing out a hole in the epoxy infill with the Mikita 1” belt sander solved the issue and gave me a spot to epoxy the back of the battery box down. I used some scrap Coosa to build up from the epoxy infill and support the two front corners of the battery box. I plan to epoxy additional supports under the box to make sure nothing moves in the future. After everything set up I cut the flooring free of the battery box leaving a 2” ribbon of Coosa floor around the epoxied in place battery box. I used some ½” scrap Coosa to epoxy a lip under the Coosa flooring around the box to create support for the rest of the floor. When I install this section of Coosa floor, I will epoxy it down to those recessed scraps. Battery box epoxied to floor and to hull.  Floor cut away, leaving battery box epoxied to hull  |
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andrewmarani
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Posted: February-22-2024 at 1:50pm |
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My knee rebuild has been a huge success. I’ve been fully back up to speed for 2 months. With all the knee exercises, I’m better than before, no aching knees at the end of the day. So work on the boat has accelerated significantly and I expect to be done for summer skiing. Still debating with myself on slalom skiing… I had planned to use an aluminum paint on the engine frame but decided to save myself some work and dropped it off at the same powder coat company that did my windshield aluminum. I am still planning to clean and paint the gas tank. I epoxied down and then foamed the two smaller pieces of flooring on either side of the engine. Per the picture I forgot to cover one of the drain holes! Somehow, I forgot twice more, as seen in some of the following photos. Outdoor temps were in the 50s, so I heated the underside of the hull, which got the hull temp to around 65-70. I made a hot box and heated the foam resins up to 90 degrees before mixing them. That combination gave me a nice high expansion on the foam. Hot resin and good mixing for 45 to 50 seconds are an absolute must to get good expansion. I cut 2” holes in the Coosa to pour in the resin. I saved the rounds and will epoxy them back into the floor before I carpet.   |
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andrewmarani
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Posted: December-16-2023 at 4:19pm |
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Water lays under the battery box and in front of the pylon. It's blocked by a hump in the hull at the pylon. Always bugged me. In this picture you can see i've filled that area in with epoxy mixed with a fairing compound so that any water that does make it up there will run back to the drain hole. The boat is currently level, so I filled the area in front of the pylon with water till it started running over the hump at the pylon. I marked the outside edges of the puddle, dried the area and then filled with to that line with epoxy. I put the epoxy in roughly a 1/4" thick at a time. I checked ahead of time to make sure this infill didn't interfere with the underside of the battery box, turns out there was plenty of space.
Got some leaves laying in there in the picture but it actually has a pretty smooth finish. Trick is to mix the epoxy slowly, minimizing bubbles. You will still get some but waving a propane torch, very quickly, over the wet epoxy pops them. Have to do that multiple times as the epoxy sets because they drift up to the top pretty slowly.  |
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andrewmarani
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Posted: December-16-2023 at 4:04pm |
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I wanted something to move out any moisture that made it's way into the foamed areas. I'm using a piece of cotton rope, basically clothes line that you can buy at a hardware store to wick any moisture out to the holes I left in the stringers. From there it can drip into the bilge. To hold the rope in place when I pour in the foam, I put dabs of thickened epoxy where the rope is and pushed the rope into it.
2/18/24 edit, this was a fail. The dabs of epoxy soak in and seal the cotton. The foam fill seems to do the same thing. I had some water laying against the rope after a rain and it did NOT soak downhill and drip into the lower stringer area. I'm ignoring this issue and moving on!
When I installed the secondary stringers, I fitted some thin wall plastic pipe through them to leave drainage holes. This was a big pain to make, fit and glass over. On the primary stringers I just cut a 1" hole in the stringer, glassed over it and cut it out with a dremel afterwards, much easier, faster and did a better job. I ended up chopping up the plastic pipe when I put the wicking rope in.  |
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andrewmarani
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Posted: December-16-2023 at 3:57pm |
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Project slowed down a lot while I got a partial knee replacement but still managed to move some stuff forward. At this point, I'm ready to install the smaller sections of flooring, the pieces just to either side of the motor. Figured I should start small. tomorrow I will epoxy them down to the stringers and sides of the hull. I plan to foam under them before moving on so I can see how the foaming works.
I used scrap 1/4" Coosa at the floor joint locations to reinforce the seam between two pieces of Coosa. You can see them in the two photos.   |
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1980SN2001
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Posted: October-13-2023 at 5:15pm |
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Very nice work. Great attention to detail. Thank you for sharing the process!
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1980 SN Project
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uk1979
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Posted: October-03-2023 at 5:58pm |
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This was all along time ago and coosa was not available in the uk ..so used 8x4x1/4 fibreglass sheet cut and epoxied down,
Things are much better now with all the wind turbines built here now much more available to play with. Good luck with the build keep the updates coming Roger.
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Lets have a go
56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
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andrewmarani
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Posted: October-03-2023 at 4:26pm |
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Are you putting down plywood flooring or are you building up the floor by putting multiple layers of fiberglass cloth right on the foam or I guess on the DPC?
If plywood, are you glueing or somehow sticking the plywood to the DPC? |
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uk1979
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Posted: October-03-2023 at 1:48pm |
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I used 18mm Mdf cover boards as I have lots of it .. the white plastic is correx I stuck to the under side of cover boards as a spacer to give room when removed to fold the DPC over the top of the foam to enclose it … as I said if you use.a heat gun it’s not needed .
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Lets have a go
56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN |
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andrewmarani wrote:
