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Rudder "housing" removal??

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Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-17-2021 at 6:25pm
I dont have enough experience at this stuff, this was my first time, to be that bold. All I could picture was a foot diameter hole in the back of my boat.   Well, that and I really didnt feel like removing my gas tank, (at one point I was fearing it might come to that)  so I did the whole thing in cockroach mode.  Not sure if Rick's tank is still in or not.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-17-2021 at 4:50pm
With all that vertical space between his tank and the rudder port, I bet he can get a helluva swing, especially with a BFH Wink
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TRBenj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-17-2021 at 4:41pm
Have removed a number of rudder ports, some of the advice above is baffling. After removing the bolts and cutting the sealant with a utility knife as best you can, a BFH and a block of wood on the top side has always made pretty quick work of it. Even on a <5yo 5200 job.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-17-2021 at 3:44pm
Another removal technique is to hit your local hardware store and pick up a package of Wooden Door Shims.  These are about 1.5" wide and 8-10" long.  The pack will have about a dozen in it.  Usually about $4.
The shims start at a very sharp point like a chisel.  They widen to about 3/8" at the end of the 10" run.
Tap the sharp pointed shim into the gap between your hull and the rudder port.  Add another shim next to that and just keep adding shims.  Tap each in a little at a time going from one to another slowly increasing the pressure to split the rudder housing away from the hull.   My boat had 5200, the hard stuff, and the shims popped it right off.  It worked for me and the wood did not damage the fiberglass.
Once the port is removed I took a very sharp automotive gasket scraper and cleaned the rest of the old 5200 off the fiber glass to prepare for the new install.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-17-2021 at 9:42am
Wow, reading your post was like an exact accounting of the same process I just went through a couple weeks ago, right down to the trepidation of prying the piece out.  Like you, all went smoothly to that point. Connections off, rudder out, four nuts off, inside plate off, and with a little persuasion, (they were gooped in there pretty good) the  four screws out.  Now the rudder port, ugh.  Thought that was the end of the project unless I got some great epiphany on how to get it out, or called on minds smarter than mine.  I was in the exact same spot as you, on my back, under the boat, not wanted to nick or chip the fiberglass.  I used the time and patience approach.  For what it was worth, (probably not much) I took a utility knife and cut out all the goo that was squeezed out along the edges and to the extent possible, scored the seam between the plate and the hull.  Then I "VEEEERRRRRYYYYYY GEEEEENNNNNNTTTTTTLLLLLLYYYYYY) used a screw driver to ever so slightly pry a little bit at a time, going around it like you would open a paint can.  Eventually, after several laps around it, if finally started to budge, breaking the seal ever so slightly.  Kept looping around and it finally came.  I dont think a direct downward vertical approach is the answer, as that would be attempting to break the whole seal at once.  I cant comment on the heat approach, but since it came from Ken, I am guessing it is a reasonable idea.


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“So, how was your weekend?”
“Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.”
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wetskier2000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-17-2021 at 7:57am
Not yet... I decided to slide the rudder back in to get as much leverage as I dared, but no luck... I like your heat gun idea. I thought about heat but figured the hull might not appreciate acetylene. LOL

The strut was off before I even knew it. The fins took very small amount of convincing.

I think plan B will be just goop the bolts and put them back in, but obviously I'd rather reseal the entire piece since I know it's leaking.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-17-2021 at 5:09am
You get that rudder port out yet?

I'd try some heat from a heat gun to soften up the sealant and instead of prying or driving wedges or chisels around the edges, like you might do on a fin or strut,  use a slide hammer  through the rudder port to get some good downward force.

It's probably pretty tight in the hole.

It's most likely the same sealant as your strut if they were both original and the strut came off easily from the sounds of it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wetskier2000 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-16-2021 at 10:23am
Next up, resealing the fitting that holds the rudder and rudder stuffing box. I disconnected the steering, got the rudder out and all 4 bolts. I removed the plate inside the hull but can't easily move the outside piece. I pried a little but am afraid of damage to the FG. Maybe a pipe or something to shove into the hole previously occupied by the rudder for leverage? Concerns about gouging up the inside of that piece? What say the experts?
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